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i have a 90 bronco with an aod not the aod-e she has like 15k on a rebuild, so here's the problem, when i have the truck in overdrive and i slow down to a stop the second to first shift is pretty rough almost like it's holding the gear too long then it bogs the motor bad before it shifts almost to the point of killing the engine, i've seen the needle drop under 500rpm. but then if i just put the truck in "d" disabling the overdrive the transmission works beautifully, but with my 4.56's she just guzzles gas. i had the truck back in the shop under warranty the guy cleaned out the valve body and did a visual on the internals he could see and said the overdrive belt looks brand new and there wasn't any metal shavings in the fluid, and tips or idea's would me much appreciated
The AOD uses a TV (throttle valve) cable to dictate gear selection. The adjustment is a little goofy but its where I'd start. I've not had opportunity to actually conduct this service but as I understand it requires a bit of patience.
+1 on the TV cable, I can make my truck act like this if there is too much preload on the cable, decrease preload 1 notch on the adjuster up by the throttle body and the problem will most likely go away. The cable is spring loaded at both ends so mark it before you try making an adjustment.. it can get away from you in a blink.
Folks are dead on. The TV cable sets the valve pressure. Too much pressure will cause some hard shifting. ATS Transmission has a great manual on the AOD.
i just had the truck in the shop because it was doing this they pulled the governor and it was fine they also set the tv pressure again, and the problem remains, all you guys have this problem only when in overdrive?
you might find yourself a different shop? did they install a shift kit in there by chance? what type of fluid are they using. what size tires are you running with those lower gears?
The TV cable is my first thought. But, the other thing when I had the AOD, (my first Bronco) I always shifted to drive. The only time I put it in OD was getting on the highway. Then when getting off the highway, I would shift back to drive. This sounds like a pain, but it became automatic. (no pun intended) The reason I did it was because I didnt like it downshifting twice when I would stomp it at a slower speed. Later someone on here said that it probubly will make the tranny last longer because it stops the 3rd gear, OD hunting. The AOD does not have a good rep, But I was happy with it.
i am runnin 33's with my 4.56's i wanted to go with 4.23's but they don't make a reverse cut for my front axle so i went 4.56 cause i might be stepping up to 35's. i had a bone stock rebuild done, now that i'm lookin into it i should've just spent the cash toward converting to a zf or an e40d. i could judt put the truck in drive around town but like i said she just eats up gas, and at over a $100 to fill the tank i can't do the and also that's just overlooking the problem. my truck goes up into gear just fine i guess i'm gonna try gettin it adjusted one more time while it's under warranty then if i still have the problem tci advertises a constant pressure valve body that might do the trick.
oh and kemical go with some L&L's if your throwing headers on, i have jba shorty's on and they're a waste, horrible welds inside and the ball collector on them was smaller than the stock manifolds can't imagine either being good for flow, or check doug thorley's tri-y's, i'm in CA so smog BS wont let me use long tubes legally because california's emissions rules were written by people that obviously know nothing about cars
my truck goes up into gear just fine i guess i'm gonna try gettin it adjusted one more time while it's under warranty then if i still have the problem tci advertises a constant pressure valve body that might do the trick.
If you go back to the same shop they will just set it the same way they did the last time, so you're no further ahead and you still have a problem. The cable adjustment is easy to do and there is NO danger you will toast the tranny by moving the adjustment 1 notch, you just can't drive around with zero preload on the cable. If you play with this a bit you should see some change in shifting behavior. If this has no effect on the OD downshift then you can safely rule it out as the cause of the problem, this will give you some amunition to get the real problem fixed while the tranny is still under warranty.
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