whats up , im pretty sure this is justin, im glad you asked this cause i asked like 4 people today, and they had no idea!!!

 

For a twin stick 1 lever operates the back axles and 1 operates the front axle. Like someone else said it gives you a 2 lo option. It gives you the option to disengage 1 axle or the other. Like if you get stuck against a tree or rock you can set the rearend to neutral and lock the e brake and set the front in lo and pull the truck around on the rear axle kind of like a dozer. This also makes for cool front wheel drive burnouts but i dont reccomend this with out a well built front axle. Whatever you do dont get 1 axle locked in high and the other in lo cause something will give.

 

This isn't a range box/doubler setup. This set up is one shifter is front lo, front nuetral, front high. The other shifter is rear lo, rear nuetral, rear high.

 

I believe the twin stick set up ( actually the shift rails ) for the NP205 won't allow you to shift one axle to lo and the other to high.

 

I have one on my dana 300 in my 86Cj and on a dana 20 in my 53 CJ3A nether are dubbled and that is how they work. Never gave much thought to my 205 in my 77 F250it is way to big to 4 wheel anyways. Go to currie's and they have the shift pattern there. The only reason I have them is they shift in and out much easer. I cant post the pic of the pattern here. I have never seen a setup like you are talking.

 

I don't know about the Dana 20 or dana 300.

You can see the NP205 twin stick shift pattern at JKW Offroad

 

I never looked into the 205 myself. I dont use my truck to wheel but it is very easy to put the rear in 4 high and the front in 4 low , mix in terta low 4:1 kit and 5:38 ring and pinon and guess what will happen, or make that guess what will give first. Like someone said the early jeep had a twin stick (Dana18) and there is a detent ball in the shift rail that will keep it from going into 2 low. Take that ball out and you have a simple Curry twin stick. I will have to check out the 205. Sounds intersting. Thanks for the link

 

Not on the NP205. The shift rails detents won't allow you to shift one axle into low and one into high. You don't remove the detent ball on the NP205 you modify(grind ) the shift rails.

 

hmmmm this place says to remove them High Impact - NP205 Tcase Data Sheet

 

Have been readinig this and it is nteresting the different ideas about the "twin stick" 205.
For the most part, it seems as though most are guessing, or have read a little about it, but do not actually have first hand knowledge.
The modification enables the user to select front or rear output independantly. This permits the front output to be engaged with or without the rear. The same is true for the rear. This permits rear 4 lo or 4 hi, or neutral, and the front has the same option.
Since the two **** rails are still kept in tact, the abiliity to engage one output in high while the other is engaged into low, is impossible. The "shuttle pin prevents this action. It is designed to prevent this, and makes this mistake impossible to do.
I can perform this modification in about 20 minutes now, but does require the case to be removed from the vehicle. Since the rear rail is the only one that has to be modified, and most of you will drop the shift fork, it only makes sense to remove the case.
Trying to get to the small access plug on top of the case is almost impossible while it is in the truck. The same is true for the roll pin that retains the shift fork to the rail.
Anyway, a small amount of grinding is all that is required, and of course, getting rid of the bracket that holds the two rails together.
As I said, it takes only a few minutes to actually make the upgrade, and is a pretty decent modification.
It is virtually a free upgrade, and even the shifters can be made.
Here I used a strut brace that was donated from a small rice car (Some crap Honda something) and cut it in half, and bolted the junk together.
Image of Used a sliverado x-cab rear seat. - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting



Oh yeah the shift selections in an earlier post were very incorrect.
Low range is all the way foward, Neutral is in the center and high range is to the rear.
This is true for both front and rear outputs.
All of the detents for shift selection is the same, only the shift rail closest to the input has to be modified. You are only extending existing detents, and this is for the shuttle pins only, not the three notches that the small ball bearing stike. These only hold the shift rail in place.
Here is an image. Again, this only requires on rail to be modified. DO not have to mess with the other rail. This would be a waste of time.
http://s292.photobucket.com/albums/m...=HPIM0415a.jpg

 

I have done the dana 300 and the dana 20 but like you said never done the 205. I think the question was not that it can be done or how, but the shift pattern of the now two shifters. can you inlight us on the pattern for the 205. I have the curry on my 300 and 20 and the patern is the same, but how about the new pattern on the 205?

 

Maybe this was addressed to me, so I will reply to this, though I did kind of answerd this in my last response.
Provided that the shift lever has the linkage below the pivot, the left lever will be for the front output, and the right lever will be for the rear output,

FRONT REAR
Low Low
N N
High High

 

Thanks 75f350 Thats what we were after. The Dana 300 is not the same then. If you look it as a 4speed H pattern with netural the same on both sticks 1st gear is low,
2nd gear is high and on this shifter netural is netural. 3rd gear is low 4wd and netural is 2wd and 4th is high 4wd. I just dont understand your front , rear but what drives them with two Ns?

 

the front and rear outputs are completely seperate.
To engage the front, you simply push or pull the left lever. To engage low range, the rear, or right shift lever must be in either low range or neutral. The front will not engage low, if the rear is on high range. Saftey built in this way.
So, if you are tolling around in 2wd, you can be in high range, or low range, and you decide that you need 4wd. Simply move the left lever to engage the front output.
Once again, it can only be engaged into the same range as the rear.
Voila, instalnt 4wd. If low range (rear) is already engaged, coming to a complete stop to engage the front end is not required as long as the tires are not spinning from loss, or lack of traction.
This action is exactly the same for the front or rear output. You can have the front only engaged in either hi or low range, and engage the rear at any time. Same operation as the above.
The N's are neutrals. Place the rear in Neutral to disengage the rear, or place the front on N to disengage the front.
Again, the case will not permit the front and rear to be in different ranges. This way damage cant be done to the case.
Does that make sense? Really is harder to explain that actually function.
The front and rear outputs are simply independant from each other.

Here is a Link from Ivan. This dates back several years, but he will get a kick out of knowing others are still reading it;
http://ivanribic.clubfte.com/page2.html

 

75 F350, Thanks for the link. Sounds like I am going to be doing my 205 soon!!! I never have torn in to a 205 and It must be a lot differant that my 300. I like the twin stick for the ease of shifting. Thanks again. Hey, is that article Ivan with the big bad *** blue ford? Man that takes me back a few