yep...
boxing frame
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 97,639
Likes: 2,012
From: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
It`s great to see so many good replies.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Doesn't matter which vertical surface (web) you cut holes into as long as you leave at least 25% of it above and below the hole it will not affect the strength. Just try to avoid cutting large holes directly across from one another. If you must bolt something with a bolt thru the frame, drill oversized holes in both webs and insert a length of tubing with an inside dia matching the bolt. weld the tube to both webs and grind it until the ends sit just slightly proud of the web so the bolt head and/or nut bear against the end of the tube. These are called "crush tubes" and are to keep the bolts from doing exactly that to the frame. Next option would be to drill the bolt sized hole in the web the attached piece contacts and a larger hole in the web directly opposite large enought to pass a suitable washer and wrench to tighten the bolt with.
Don't worry, there is as many variations to boxing a frame as people doing them, and each have a favorite way, so as long as the welds are sound it will have the same effect.
Don't worry, there is as many variations to boxing a frame as people doing them, and each have a favorite way, so as long as the welds are sound it will have the same effect.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,511
Likes: 1
From: peyton, colorado
When I boxed my frame, I inset the bottom of the plate and left the top flush. A quarter inch or so is all you need to inset on the bottom. I chamfered the top of the plate for good penetration, and left it flush with the top of the frame. It does give you a trapazoidal shaped tube instead of a rectangle tube, Inverted trapazoidal boxing is the term we coined for it. It was simply a method to allow me to do all my welds "in position" since I don't like to weld something this critical upside down. Along with drilling access holes in the plates, I welded nuts inside the frame for running board bolts, battery mounts, etc. Btw, if you're going to make any bolt on tranny crossmembers, box the frame first. I read in Street Rodder that even a properly boxed frame will spread apart slightly, and mine did. Unfortunatly, I had already made my bolt in crossmember, and it was now 1/4" too narrow.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 789
Likes: 2
From: MI..."near" Dearborn...
With a TCI MII IFS & 9" rear w/ a 4-bar & 302 automatic "warmed" up
quite "nicely"... is there any reason NOT to box ALMOST front-to-back???
I found these on the 'net while searchin' for something else & they"re not too
far from home...
Progressive Automotive, frame boxing plates, chassis boxing plates
Didn't mean to hijack...sorry...but gotta a bump out of it anyway...
Thought it might thing go a little eaiser for me...
quite "nicely"... is there any reason NOT to box ALMOST front-to-back???
I found these on the 'net while searchin' for something else & they"re not too
far from home...
Progressive Automotive, frame boxing plates, chassis boxing plates
Didn't mean to hijack...sorry...but gotta a bump out of it anyway...
Thought it might thing go a little eaiser for me...
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,373
Likes: 6
From: Moore (or less), OK.
They look nice but, it might be easier and cheaper to just cut your own. You have to cut those where the x-members are anyway unless you trim around them or remove the x-members and replace them. That is a major undertaking in itself.
Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 22,014
Likes: 9,969
From: Rio Rancho, NM
In my case I got the steel for free. A buddy of mine had some 1/8"x6" flatbar left over from a job and donated it to the cause. Its a pretty easy thing to do to cut them out.....
...but....if the ready made pieces were close and cheap enough then by all means I would have bought some because, I'm lazy
Bobby
...but....if the ready made pieces were close and cheap enough then by all means I would have bought some because, I'm lazy
Bobby
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Lacking a plasma cutter or the funds to purchase one, it really doesn't take much longer to cut them out with a 4" angle grinder (about 49.00 for a good Makita, 1/2 that for a no name import throw away) and a dozen 1/16" cutoff disks. I find so much use for my small angle grinders that I now have 3 of them, one set up with a cutoff wheel, one with a flap disk and one with a sanding disk that also sometimes wears a nylon cup brush or grinding stone.
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