So last week I sold my axle's, got 900 out of em. Couldn't refuse the offer. So I ended up tearing down the whole truck, kept everything but box and frame. They went to the bone yard. I got rid of the frame cause it was thin in a few spots, behind the factory coil buckets and radius arms mainly. Dont plan to use a box on the next truck.

Anyhow, I picked up a 77 short box frame, was a rust free missouri truck. I want to box the frame, while it may not be nessesary, but i want this truck to be tough. I sat and stared at it for a while trying to figure out how to do it while i was cleaning it up and getting it ready for welding. How have you guys that have done this gone about cutting steal for all the bends and changes in the frame? I was really hoping that the frame rails would stay the same say 6 inches apart the length of the frame so I could get the steal pre-cut at work 6 inches wide and then just cut angles in it at home to get the bends in the frame. After a little measureing I see that it changes quite a bit, from over 5 inches wide in some spots to over 6 inches. So that idea wont work so well. So now Im thinking the best way would be to take out all the cross members and make a template out of card board and buy steal cut wide enough to cover all the up and down bends and plasma cut it out, but this will result in some scrap made. Also where the rear shocks mount, the bottom of the frame kinda bends down right there, what do I do about that? Just lookin for some ideas to takle this. Sorry for the long post

 

For frames I like to use the real thick cardboard from boxes. It leaves impressions when pushed hard. Just hold it up to the inside of the frame and push right where the frame is. It will leave a perfect impression of the contours. I always buy full sheets of plate ( 4x8) You will have excess but you can use it for other projects.

For the shock part. I would cut off the lip and grind it in till I got back to full frame thickness. Then run your boxing plates like you want them and cut a filler piece for the hole. If done right it will look like the factory frame that's been boxed.

Level your frame before you weld the plates in. Heard of a few guys that didn't and had problems later on. The box plates held the frame at a twist. If you are going to take the crossmembers out, I would put a temp brace in the middle, somewhere out of your way, to keep the frame from spreading

 

I would make sure I left weep holes at the low points of the frame so water and mud could escape.

 

Card board is your friend when it comes to boxing. TAKE YOUR TIME and get them to fit snug, it'll help when you go to weld it out. Also bevel all your ends so that you have a good spot to weld and get good penetration.

 

Card board template seems the best way to go. Thanks for the heads up on keeping the frame level, I wouldn't have worried about it pulling out of shape too much after welding.

I was thinking about only using 1/8 inch plate to kinda keep the weight down, I figure it will still provide alot more stregth then stock and I plan to make an exo cage in the future when I get a nice cab so that will also make the frame more rigid. Will 1/8 inch plate be worth it or should I step it up to 3/16?

 

im going to box my frame too, and im considering using a couple lengths of 1" conduit in each side to run fuel line, electrical, and possible air lines and vent lines...i figured if i mounted the ends just right i could fish anything through later that i might need....just my 2 cents....i am also gonna blast and weld prime the inside before hand....

 

I dont think I'm gonna box it anymore. Just seems like too much of a pain. I wont be able to get steal til the 11th from work, I'd have a pay more anywhere else. And putting bolts through it would suck cause i'd have to drill it big to weld a tube in so it doesn't crush when torqin them down. And I dont know how to keep water and mud out of it. Next year it will get a new cab so ill have the oppertunity to box it then if it needs it.

 

I will say this, it's ALOT of work!