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Old Oct 21, 2008 | 10:33 PM
  #16  
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AzBlueWolf
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From: SpringHill,Fl
as long as everything is in working order

but if one side is adjusted wrong, it wont even them out...

Ideally, pull the wheels and clean and inspect the shoes,drums,wheel cylinders and hardware

replace anything that doesnt look right.

if brake fluid has gotten on the shoes, replace them and the wheel cylinders.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2008 | 10:40 PM
  #17  
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kjmdrumz3
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Originally Posted by AzBlueWolf
as long as everything is in working order

but if one side is adjusted wrong, it wont even them out...

Ideally, pull the wheels and clean and inspect the shoes,drums,wheel cylinders and hardware

replace anything that doesnt look right.

if brake fluid has gotten on the shoes, replace them and the wheel cylinders.
To be honest, I was thinking about replacing most of the brake system anyway. Can't hurt, right? Anything that looks newer might stay, but I think the rest is gonna get replaced.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2008 | 10:43 PM
  #18  
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AzBlueWolf
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From: SpringHill,Fl
brake hardware is fairly cheap...even if it looks good...the springs could be weak
 
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Old Oct 21, 2008 | 10:54 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by AzBlueWolf
brake hardware is fairly cheap...even if it looks good...the springs could be weak
Good call. Yeah, skimping on safety stuff probably isn't the best idea, huh? Also, do you know where I can find lenses and screws for the lights? I have a few that are out that ABSOLUTELY need to be working since I'm on Tinker AFB and a few of the screw heads are rounded out. I think I'm going to need to drill them out, but I wanna have replacements ready. Thanks
 
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Old Oct 21, 2008 | 11:01 PM
  #20  
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AzBlueWolf
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From: SpringHill,Fl
best bet is take a sample to the hardware store...or a local screw supplier

Home depot and Lowes have automotive hardware also
 
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Old Oct 21, 2008 | 11:03 PM
  #21  
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kjmdrumz3
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Originally Posted by AzBlueWolf
best bet is take a sample to the hardware store...or a local screw supplier

Home depot and Lowes have automotive hardware also
Awesome. Thanks. I might run down to the local pull-a-part and see what they have. AS far as the carb goes, I'm thinking about just geting a rebuild kit and rebuilding it. The idle issue might just be some adjustments, but I might as well, right?
 
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Old Oct 22, 2008 | 01:20 AM
  #22  
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Actually if you're getting a pull in one direction when you apply the brakes it is a front caliper that causes that. Any rear wheel issue would result in a brake lockup and not a pulling or pushing feel. Whichever way the truck is steering hard when you apply the brakes, it is that side caliper that is grabbing too hard either due to a sticking piston within the caliper or the caliper itself is hanging up on the sliders. In any event, replacement of the front calipers is the best way to correct the problem and it's inexpensive. The rear brakes being drums will only give you a lockup on one of the wheels if that particular wheel cylinder has issues. I'd recommend replacing both wheel cylinders ( roughly $10.00 apiece) and both front calipers and re-bleed the entire brake system using a vacuum type bleeder. Trust me on this one, I've been doing brakes for over 40 years and this will give you brand new brakes. You said you already replaced the master cylinder so this is all that needs to be done other then checking your two front soft brake lines going to the calipers. I just rebuilt my brakes on my 75 exactly this way and my truck had been sitting for 10 years. My brakes are as good as new and work flawlessly.
 
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Old Oct 22, 2008 | 08:13 AM
  #23  
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IZZYAZ
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From: Story City, Iowa
kjmdrumz3,

I tried to PM you but you don't have that option. If you are looking for some lenses I have a couple extra sets that I thought I might need some day. I think I should only need 1 extra set, so let me know if your interested. izzyaz@hotmail.com
 
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