1966 F100 - wiring problem

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Oct 20, 2008 | 11:49 AM

Computermike

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1966 F100 - wiring problem

Hi,

My Alt gage wasn't working, after a short drive it would ping up high around 50 volts and smoked started filing up behind the glass and then coming throught dash.

I have a new gauge and wired it up.

When I was under the dash I removed the radio. I cut a power line, removed the antenna wire, the speaker wire for the single speaker.

Now my amps looked good and steady around 12 or 13 when I turn the key, but the headlights will not go on, the starter does not engage, it is like it is none of the components are getting electrical current.
Did I break circuit by removing radio? How do I fix?

I am reading book on auto wiring and have ordered wiring diagram, but I am very novice and would like to get my old ford truck healthy again. Any comments or advice on what to do next would be appreciated.

Mike

Oct 20, 2008 | 02:48 PM

camperspecial65

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From: seattle

Did you unscrew the dash cluster and pull it out a little bit ??? On the backside of the speedo is an instrument voltage regulator...its a small rectangular part held on by one screw and has 2 plug in blade wires. It is not uncommon for these to go belly up...you mentioned that the alt gauge would peg high...did you replace the alternator and does this truck have the sweep speedo with the accessory oil pressure and alt. gauges on either end of the cluster ??? If it had these accessory gauges, I have heard of those accy. alt gauges going bad too...but if the problem persists even with a new gauge, I would go look at the ICVR. Its part number is B9MZ10804C its last application I see in my book is 66 trucks. If you want an OE one, I have several of them.

- cs65

Oct 21, 2008 | 05:57 AM

NumberDummy

Ford Parts Specialist

Joined: Nov 2006

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From: Simi Valley, CA

Quote:

Originally Posted by camperspecial65

Usually when the ICVR goes bad, it only affects the fuel and temp gauges, causing the needles to swing wildly back and forth on their own.

The ICVR has nothing to do with the starter not engaging, the lights not to work, loss of electrical power.

The OP says he CUT a "power line." I wonder if it was pink in color?

If so, that's the ballast resistor wire from the ignition switch to the coil.

If that wire is cut, you aren't going anywhere.

I also wonder if the OP removed a battery cable before before working under the dash?

COLF12250A (Motorcraft DY37)

61.50" long / Color coded pink / 1.30 to 1.40 ohms resistance / #20 gauge wire.

Fits: All 1960/72 cars & trucks.

This wire is obsolete, no longer available from Ford.

Try NAPA, they can cross the Motorcraft number over to their brands.

Oct 21, 2008 | 10:32 AM

rbaker6336

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From: Blairsville,Ga

For ND does the truck have a fusable link for the feed wire going into the cab ?
with the ampmeter going to 50 and smoking I susect a short that may have burned something
I don't have any of my books here and can't remember the exact wiring on a '66

Oct 21, 2008 | 11:27 AM

Computermike

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The Power line I cut, was a line leading to the radio. I disconnected the antena which I beleive also acts as a ground.

My fuel and temp gauges have always worked fine.

Yes, I disconnected both battery cables before I did any work.

Never seen any pink wires, so...

I guess I need to spend more time reading wiring book.

Thanks everyone for the help. If you have any other ideas please throw them out.

Oct 21, 2008 | 11:30 AM

Computermike

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Also, the smoke was coming from the gauge or near it. Since I put new gauge in it registers around 12 volts and is steady and no smoke, but no juice to car either

Oct 21, 2008 | 11:58 AM

rbaker6336

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From: Blairsville,Ga

Quote:

Originally Posted by Computermike

Also, the smoke was coming from the gauge or near it. Since I put new gauge in it registers around 12 volts and is steady and no smoke, but no juice to car either

you are stating new guage reading volts,stock guage was ampmeter
volt meters and ampmeters don't wire up the same