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You shouldn't feel a warped rotor unless using the brakes though. When you checked your u-joints did you do it with the truck in neutral (parking brake on), and try to turn the driveshaft and check for looseness in the u-joints.
I took my driveshaft off when I checked my ujoints.
Does anyone know anything about that heavy seal Im talking about ?
The one on the axle.
My axle is rusty and dry shouldnt it be oiled from the diff?
Are you talking about a huge rubber donut thing? Thats the carrier bearing. Theres also an accordion looking boot near the center support bearing that covers the connection between the two rear driveshafts. If you are talking about the front axle shafts, they will be rusty if your dust seals have gone bad which is very typical. The front axle seals are actually inside the tube, and are accessed from inside the differential, so rust on the front shafts isn't a huge deal, however, I would replace the dust seals if you are doing other front end work. Did you mark the driveshaft when you removed it?
Another thing, since it is a 4x4, if you unlock the hubs and don't have 4x4 engaged, the front half shafts should spin freely. If they don't a hub is sticking and maybe the vibration you are feeling. Another possibility could be a really worn out sway bar bushing.... Don't ask how, I haven't got the slightest clue, but I remember someone saying their sway bar bushing went bad, and it caused a funny harmonic vibration...
Or, your torque converter could be dying... A bad torque converter can cause a funny vibration too...
Are you talking about a huge rubber donut thing? Thats the carrier bearing. Theres also an accordion looking boot near the center support bearing that covers the connection between the two rear driveshafts. If you are talking about the front axle shafts, they will be rusty if your dust seals have gone bad which is very typical. The front axle seals are actually inside the tube, and are accessed from inside the differential, so rust on the front shafts isn't a huge deal, however, I would replace the dust seals if you are doing other front end work. Did you mark the driveshaft when you removed it?
Driveshafts been on , off and driven with no change in anything.
The only part I can find worn ,is the seal or whatever it is on the AXLE?
Its right beside the ujoint on the front axle..
Its fairly complicated looking to just be a seal.
If it is the large seal on the outboard stub shaft of the axle, thats the kuckle seal, but it wouldn't cause a vibration i wouldn't think. The inner seal that is smaller and fits inside of the axle tube wouldn't cause a vibration either. Both seals on my front axle were toast and I didn't have any vibrations until my front hub went south. How does the needle bearing look on the inside of the wheel hub assembly (not lockouts)? If the stub shaft or bearing has worn too far, its a bit spendy to fix, but that would cause a funny vibration. The needle bearing is an hb2110 i believe and is replaceable if it is sot. If the 4x4 bearing is bad though, you have to replace the whole thing. The hub assembly should rotate smoothly as rbaker said. Does the vibration go away if you lock the hubs in?
If it is the large seal on the outboard stub shaft of the axle, thats the kuckle seal, but it wouldn't cause a vibration i wouldn't think. The inner seal that is smaller and fits inside of the axle tube wouldn't cause a vibration either. Both seals on my front axle were toast and I didn't have any vibrations until my front hub went south. How does the needle bearing look on the inside of the wheel hub assembly (not lockouts)? If the stub shaft or bearing has worn too far, its a bit spendy to fix, but that would cause a funny vibration. The needle bearing is an hb2110 i believe and is replaceable if it is sot. If the 4x4 bearing is bad though, you have to replace the whole thing. The hub assembly should rotate smoothly as rbaker said. Does the vibration go away if you lock the hubs in?
Yes that knuckle seal as you call it , is the one I was wondering about.
Vibration doesnt go away in with hubs locked in, but it changes some what.
Should I take the hub apart and look at the bearings inside?
Someone told me there was no servicable parts in the hub and you have to buy a whole new hub?
The only serviceable parts for the hub assembly are that yellow o ring if you have electronic 4x4, and the little needle bearing. Napa sells the torrington bearing that you need, just punch the old one out and take it in. If it looks bad replace it. Also look at the stub shaft if it has any wear. To keep the bearings good in the hub, i'd go ahead and replace the kunckle seal. Don't want water and dirt ruining the bearings. I'm thinking the hub has gone bad since it has a hard spot as you said. The only hub assembly I would get would be a Ford one. The aftermarket ones are cheaper...but you get what you pay for in this case...
The only serviceable parts for the hub assembly are that yellow o ring if you have electronic 4x4, and the little needle bearing. Napa sells the torrington bearing that you need, just punch the old one out and take it in. If it looks bad replace it. Also look at the stub shaft if it has any wear. To keep the bearings good in the hub, i'd go ahead and replace the kunckle seal. Don't want water and dirt ruining the bearings. I'm thinking the hub has gone bad since it has a hard spot as you said. The only hub assembly I would get would be a Ford one. The aftermarket ones are cheaper...but you get what you pay for in this case...
Fords not open today but I priced a hub out at the parts store and it was $376.00.
Sound right?
Where are the needle bearings?
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