Does anyone know a good way to repair the cracks in old steering wheel. I'm putting an aftermarket wheel on my truck for a little more room and would like to keep the original and repair. I was thinking of an epoxy. If anyone has attempted this and has any advise i'd like to hear it.


RCC

 

rcc, I have read many success stories over the years where guys use filler material, sand smooth and paint.

I will leave it to a more knowledgeable poster for materials to, or not to use.


John

 

rsdjcarter

I think that ( JB WELD ) would work well, shaping it while still wet and workable!
Is there anything ( JB weld ) can't do? You also could try a plastic welder, eastwood sells
one!






Wally Womack

 

I remember from when I was looking at doing this 15 years ago there were kits you could purchase to clean, fill and epoxy paint the old steering wheels back to factory color. Sorry, that is all I remember as it was half my life ago.

 

Check here for the Por-15 kit.
STEERING WHEEL REPAIR KIT-POR-15 Inc.

 

Restored steering wheel on 65 F100 that had some serious cracks, not familiar with the Por kit, have used their products and usually find they offer good quality products. I went with the Eastwood kit and pleased with result. If should decide to go this route, it's been a few years but seem to recall the instructions were very helpful. Suggest review instruction from both kits. Found taking a file to my steering wheel difficult but seemed it was necessary to get a good surface for the putty to bond to. Purchased a small rectangular file to make sure I got a good clean groove. Not sure if it's mentionid in the instructions, strongly suggest do not get carried away with the putty by leaving excess material in the design of the steering wheel; grooves, indentations, etc., it will be less labor intensive removing the putty while it's moist than trying to sand it once it's hardened. Also, mix amount intend to use for that particular spot, does not take too long to harden. Finally, found the putty was relatively easy to work with if I kept it moist, placed a small plastic container of water close to dip fingers into, don't want it wet. If funds are an issue, probably only need the putty, not sure etching primer nec. I used it, and finish with the desired color aerosol can of flexible type paint.

Eastwood Co. - Complete Steering Wheel Restoration Kit


Eastwood Co. - Master Steering Wheel Repair Kit W/Instruc

Eastwood Co. - Steering Wheel Restoration Kit W/O Puller


Eastwood Co. - Steering Wheel Restoration

 

Thanks for all the info. I think i'll check out the Eastwood stuff and no there isn't anything J B weld won't fix used it plenty. I'm filling trim holes with it now as i can't afford new side trim at this time and i figure i can knock them out if i win the lotttery.
Thanks again
RCC

 

And for $200 and no labor you can have a new on off the ford molds courtesy of Dennis Carpenter..

All restoration will eventually crack and cause issues as the still 50 year old material the new stuff is adhered to continues to shrink and deteriorate.

Garbz

 

Too True. If i was going to use it that's probably what i'd do but just want to keep it around just in case heck i'll probably be buried in this truck.

 

I'm a low budget kinda guy; I have restored two to three steering wheels using a product called Propoxy; found in a plumbing supply store; its in a grey metal tube; looks like a tootsie roll black and center part is white; cut off a piece about 1" long and then you knead it; I then spread it into the cracks as a filler; smooth as much as possible by hand, then after about 12 to 24 hours I use sand paper and sand it even more smoother. (The hardest part to bring back to oem look is the center part of the steering wheel due to this part being a bunch of slot type area).
After that I use a rustolem product called Fusion rattle can type paint and spray the wheel either black or red so far, havn't found any other colors yet that are common to our truck colors. I then wrap the wheel with a cheap plastic leather type wrap. My 65 in my gallery is done that way.

Mitch

 

I just finished the wheel in my 66 4x4, it's a 4 spoke unique to the 4x4s so I'm told, so they're not reproduced. It was very heavily cracked, and in some spots missing as much as 3/4 by 3/4 inch material, right down to the steel rim, mainly where the spokes join the rim. Elsewhere there were cracks almost entirely around the circumference. Through internet research and access to aviation grade adhesives, I found success by taking a Dremel tool with a small carbide burr, and enlarging all the cracks, widening them, and making them deeper (so the adhesive has a good cavity to flow into). I tried Hysol 9309 and 3M 1751A/B, but found the 3M 1751 to be the best. This product is very similar to JB Weld, so I think you would have good results with the JB Weld.
Mix up the grey epoxy, and force it into the cracks using a flathead screwdriver or such, like a mini trowel, sort of like applying mortar or concrete. Put some clean lacquer thinner in a little cup, then dip your finger in it, and while your finger is still wet, smooth out the epoxy. The thinner will evaporate quickly, leaving a tidy transition between the epoxy in the crack, and the good part of the steering wheel. Let it harden up overnight, sand where needed, repeat process where needed, then spray with a good automotive polyurethane.
It could take you several days of work to get it done, but it is rewarding once you're done. Good Luck.

 

Thanks for the info Modeleh, Very useful let me know if it holds up.
RCC

 

Mitch, I about blew my coffee while reading your post, because into my head came; Billy Maze Here, a 1 inch long piece will pull a 100,000 pound overloaded tractor trailer.


John

 

I just finished the wheel in my 66 4x4, it's a 4 spoke unique to the 4x4s so I'm told, so they're not reproduced.

Actually the 4x4 four spoke steering wheels are also reproduced by Dennis....

Garbz

 

I know i hate it when that guy yells at me on TV. I'll have to see if they carry that here.