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Because of the position of the remote mounting of the Ignition Control Module on the left inner fender and my worsening eyesight, I have no idea, other than digging in the screw hole with everything under the sun, what actually works. I'll buy an Island in the Bahamas for the first correct answer.
I can't say for sure, but I believe that the basic module is the same as they were when mounted to the distributor as they are when mounted to the remote heat sink. If that is the case, the hole that the two mounting screws are located in are too narrow to get a conventional socket into. They make a special, thin walled socket for this. Cost is around 10 bucks and they are sold at most major auto parts stores. Hope this helps.
That is correct. I took an old socket that I had a duplicate of and used the bench grinder to make it a think wall socket. I want to say its metric. I'll look and see if I can find that socket I modified and see what size it is.
I just checked. The tool I modified is actually an old nut driver. It says P6 on it. I believe that means that it is 6mm. It looks to be the same size as a 6mm socket. It also looks like a 7/32 socket is nearly the same thing. I think either will work. They aren't that tight. Just make sure you don't over tighten them when reinstalling, or the plastic housing may break.
I assume you are replacing the module. If that is the case, or even if taking it off to have it checked, make sure to clean the contact mounting surface well and liberally apply a film of dielectric grease to it! It aids in the heat transfer from the module to the heat sink and ensures a good contact. TexasGuy is right too..don't overtighten the mounting screws...the module is thin and breaks/warps easily. Just snug it down.
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