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Trevor, thanks, I have already been there. I just cannot get the **** to free up. Dang thing is stuck in Auto position. I am having a problem with the 4X4 and want to manually lock the hubs to see if the system itself is working before I go any deeper. I have been told that the system will not lock, if the locking hub is frozen.
First of all, the o-ring that seals the dial in the hub seems to be made of cheap-**** neoprene. Not Buna-N or Viton. Over a period of time, it looks like road dirt / oils will seep into the dial and make the o-ring begin to swell. If not excercised on a regular basis (monthly?) dirt / dust will pack around the already swollen o-ring and begin to bind it up. At some time it will totaly seize up.
I am afraid in my thinking that the ring is made of neoprene, if you try to soak it in tranny fluid, spray with WD-40 or silicone, two things will happen. One, the neoprene will swell even more from the petroleum stuff in all these. Two, all of the above will tend to attract more dust / dirt only to make conditions worse.
I have been able to remove the dial but only by drilling a small hole in the **** and inserting a tool to push the nylon disk located below the dial far enough to allow the dial to unlock.
The next BIG problem in trying to replace the o-ring is that it appears to be a METRIC SIZE! Not easy to find and very costly for experimentation.
On top of all that, the older hubs used a round o-ring and the newer ones went to a flat type of o-ring with a groove on one side! I am thinking that this transformation happened sometime in 2001.
If I every get past the ring thingy, I will still have to figure out how to patch the darned hole that I drilled in the ****! It is apparent that the cavity behind the **** has to stay dry with no contamination leakage from the outside world.
I am a little afraid to spray lube in it. I got the left one free and it now operates like it should. I don't want to spend that kind of money, but winter is getting close and at times I prefer to lock them down than depend on the auto feature.
Maybe just a dab of black silicone would do it until you could score a replacement?
I was thinking of Black RTV but it would have to be on the front as the nylon disk below the **** actually touches the **** on the backside in the AUTO position.
I am a little afraid to spray lube in it. I got the left one free and it now operates like it should. I don't want to spend that kind of money, but winter is getting close and at times I prefer to lock them down than depend on the auto feature.
I did this dance with my hubs for two winters before upgrading to the Warns. I would take the hub off the truck, either bathe it overnight in ATF or partially tear it down to "un-stuck" it. After countless times of doing this, I gave up and switched them out. No longer have the auto lock feature but I don't mind getting out to lock up the hubs. At least I know I won't have issues anymore.
It did in my case. However, I think that Guzzle is right on with his comments on the o-rings and swelling. Mine would free up but after a month or two, it would get stuck again. Thats why I went with the warns.
I have got it off and torn down. Still cannot move it. With my med condition, I bought the truck with the auto hubs so I would not have to get out if I needed 4WD. Warn does not make a set of autos for the truck. The ones that they do require you to back up to make them release. Not for me. I have had them before and had them to unlock on me backing up.