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Straight up I 85 on the state line. I will drive right by Winston-Salem on the way there and back. My other hub was like yours and I broke the center when I put a wrench on it to get it to lock. It locked and free'd up but I just got tired of fighting the vacuum lines, vacuum pump, hub failures in general. Now the Warns.
I would just got with the manual warn hubs because I am cheap and I like them to work heh. It cost me 8 dollars to send my old auto hubs to Guzzle two weeks ago so that wasn't too bad.
ZX is sending me one and once I change it out, I will send the two to guzzle. He can experiment and see if he can figure out what is wrong with the dang things. I do have a set of factory manual ones(they will not work on an auto sustem) available.
With my Warns, I use a pair of pliers with rubber-coated handles and put the handles inside the **** to turn it easily... They are somewhat recessed inside the chrome cap.
Maybe with a screwdriver and the pliers handles, you could move that hub?
On the other hand, maybe you should just throw the manuals in there and drive with the hubs locked. I lock mine at the first snowfall and leave them in all winter, and just use the **** on the dash whenever I need 4x4.
Doesn't harm anything, and if anything, makes the needle bearings (inner spindle bearing) last longer
Art, that idea has crossed my mind. I just wonder if they are sealed like the autos are. That is all that I would need is another vacuum leak to trace down.
i make a "key" out of PVC pipe for locking and unlocking the hubs. it only cost about $3 to make, and is very handy for hard to turn hubs, or when you have gloves on in the winter and the wheel in hub deep in snow.
Art, that idea has crossed my mind. I just wonder if they are sealed like the autos are. That is all that I would need is another vacuum leak to trace down.
Doesn't matter - pull the vacuum hoses off the vacuum solenoid and plug them. Or, just disconnect the electrical connector from the solenoid, that's even easier.
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