I'm looking to put lockers in my Bronco for use in moderate to difficult offroading. I've pretty much decided to go with the ARB Air Locker, but the shop I've had most of my suspension work done though is very adamant about not putting a locker in the rear AND the front (specifically the front). I was under the impression that the Air Locker allowed you to do that safely. Am I wrong? Does anyone know if it's worth doing?
I'll be spending a lot of time on rocks and mud, and I'll likely end up with only 3 wheels on the ground at times.

Any help and advice is much appreciated.

1990 Bronco XLT, Skyjacker 6" Suspension Lift, Rancho RS-9000 Shocks, Super Swamper Thornbird 35x12.5R15s, 400HP 351

 

Lockers are a good idea if you are going anywhere off road. Keep in mind that your tires will wear out faster, due to the fact that when you turn you will slide the outside tire. That is for the rear. I had a 89 F150 with a Detroit locker in the rear and a limited slip in the front. I would suggest you put a Detroit Locker in your rear. It is alright to have your rear locked up at all times and they are much cheaper than the ARB. You dont want the front locked all the time. It will cause you to wander all over the road, not to mention that you will cause serious problems turning on a hard surface locked in. I would suggest the ARB in the front so you can lock it in when you need it. I hope this helps.

 

I am not sure why they do not want to install lockers f&r. If you are planning on using it for difficult off-roading, I say you should lock both ends. Although I would recommend putting a detroit in the rear. The reason for this is that they are a bit cheaper than the ARB, plus they don't require an air compressor. I have heard of ARB's leaking, and you have to be careful of the airline. THe Detroit is a very strong locker.

Now the front on the other hand, I agree with putting an ARB in it. You can install any locker you want in the front, because when you are driving down the highway, you usually don't have it in 4wd anyway. Now there is an advantage to the ARB. When you are trying to turn sharply, while locked in and under stress (extreme wheeling) the front end doesn't turn well. However, with the ARB, you can disengage the ARB and run 3wd, which allows the front to turn sharper, while still putting power to the front end.

I have 2 vehicles that are locked front and rear, and haven't had any problems. My girlfriend drives her locked 4Runner almost everyday. It does wear tires a bit faster than on open diff, but the added traction more than makes up for it.

Chris

 

Hey guys please correct me if I'm wrong! But with locking front Hubs Like super winch ,Once you unlock them it doesnt matter?? The axle aren't turning ? Unless its a full time tranfercase? I had a full time 1978 with factory 410s I think maybe 411s.Fulltime transfercase,Back then a company called R&L had a retro kit to replace the planitary gear in the case and put locking hubs instead of those silver caps.It got rid of the shaking in the front end.And rode much smoother on the hyway.But that was a 1978 F-250 4 speed. I'm not up on all the changes ,Like my 86 f-150 you had to drive backwards to unlock the hubs.I know some people don't want to get out of the truck to lock in thier hubs But thats the fun of wheeling? As far as the rear goes ,with 6' lift ,400horse and 35' mudder.I would you U joint and joke would break before the DiFF? I'm restoring a 1981 F-250 xlt 400m I'm putting it togther ,Borg/warner T 19s 4 speed ,Tru Trac ,Borg/warner 2 speed transfer case. The center bearing in the case went and the lockers are still going stong?

 

I'd think your shop would love to take your dual ARB money--an inside switch (or two), one (or two) compressors, one locker (or two) (or none).
Turn 'em on, Turn 'em off.
Eddie

 

Thanks for the help. I'm going to have the ARBs installed front and rear. Summit sells a set of high strength steel braided air lines for the air compressor for about $50.00. I know it's going to be a little pricey (I've already checked), but I'm going to only do this once.
Thanks for the advice!

1990 Bronco XLT, Skyjacker 6" Suspension Lift, Rancho RS-9000 Shocks, Super Swamper Thornbird 35x12.5R15s, 400HP 351

 

I dont know much about differential lockers, but I would like to have one in my truck to get both wheels spinning (whether in be in a smoky burnout, or to help me get out of some mud) but from what i have heard, a locker will keep the transaxle locked at all times and this whould cause problems with turning and wheelhop, considering both wheels would always be turning at the same speed. This would cause uncomfortable driving conditions and no doubt severe tire wear. Is there a locker out there that would allow normal turning and everyday driving with no problem and will only kick in when one tire is spinning by itself? I am aware of the ARB air locker and that it would solve my problem, however I am looking for a less expensive solution. any help on this topic is much appreciated. Also, since the front transaxle is only turning when I am in four wheel drive, a standard locker would be fine for the front because I am only in four wheel drive in situations where i would want both front wheels turning. please correct me if i am wrong with my assumption. Thanks again
-John

1995 Ford F-150 XLT 4x4

 

>>from what i have heard, a locker will keep the transaxle locked at all times and this whould cause problems with turning and wheelhop, considering both wheels would always be turning at the same speed.<<

This is true to a point. Lockers do in fact keep both tires turning at the same speed. Depending on which locking device you use. IF the locker is in the front diff, and you are locked in, you will notice a difference in turning radius. When the front is unlocked (hubs, or t-case), the turning will get better because the locker is not loaded. With no power to the front end, each tire can turn seperately.

>>This would cause uncomfortable driving conditions and no doubt severe tire wear.<<

I have a Toyota 4Runner that is locked front and rear, and we have about 25-30,000 miles on the 36" Super Swampers. The tread is about 45% gone. This is driven on the street 3-4 days a week. The lockers haven't worn the tires very bad, especially since Swampers are a soft rubber tire.

>>Is there a locker out there that would allow normal turning and everyday driving with no problem and will only kick in when one tire is spinning by itself? I am aware of the ARB air locker and that it would solve my problem, however I am looking for a less expensive solution.<<

ARB is the locker to use if you are looking into being able to turn it on and off. But as you well know, they are expensive. Detroit Lockers are a very good and strong locker, and they hold up very well. I have only heard of 2 of them breaking, and I know lots of people with them. If you are looking for a strong, cheap locker, but you don't care about wearing tires, then a spool or mini-spool is the way to go. These are a true locker, because they lock the axle shafts together. An Ez-Locker, Lock-Right, etc, are ratcheting lockers. What this means is: The axle shafts will turn the same speed when you are driving straight down the road or trail. When you turn, the internals of the locker will ratchet, allowing the outer tire to travel farther than the inner tire. This is the same principal that an open diff works on. However, when the tires are under pressure (climbing, mud, rocks, etc) they will receive power on both ends. Turning will be affected by this because the locker is under a load and doesn't ratchet.

>>Also, since the front transaxle is only turning when I am in four wheel drive, a standard locker would be fine for the front because I am only in four wheel drive in situations where i would want both front wheels turning<<

This is correct, since when the front end is not engaged, the locker is not being used. As far as a standard locker, that is a matter of opinion. I am running a Lock-Right in the front of my Dodge, which works well both engaged and disengaged. I have heard of people that have actually spooled the front, since the only time they use 4wd is when they need it for extreme wheeling. Your choice of lockers is up to you, since you will be the only one who can decide which is best suited for your situation and bank account. Hope this helps.

Chris
cmercer@auxserv1.unco.edu
http://www.mountaineers4x4.org/mercer
'82 F-350, '53 Dodge PU, '85 4Runner
Proud enough to stack hay, crazy enough to eat it.

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 10-Dec-00 AT 05:08&nbsp;AM (EST)[/font][p]as far as your problem goes I would run a detroit locker in the rear you wont notice any worse difference than an open diff only better performance as for the front dont bother with an arb .. if you dont want full time lock but one that hooks when you need it go with a detroit trutrac locker in the front therte is no air to it and they are as durable as the true detroit locker you wont be dissatifed



79 bronco 460 c6 dana60 and 44 with 488,s and detroit lockers with 38.5 in gumbo mudders