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If I put a dual master cylinder on my 53, do I need a check valve? I talked with a guy at my area car show who had a 54. He put on front disk brakes with a dual master without power booster. He said he had to put a check valve in to prevent the fluid from running back into the master cylinder. I believe he said he was using a master cylinder for a mustang. Does this make a difference from orderin a dual cylinder specifically for our old trucks?
If it's mounted under the flloor you do need a residual check valve. You can get by without it most of the time if it's mounted on the firewall. If you have disc/drum brakes you need a MC designed for disc/drums. If you don't you need one designed for drum/drum. What do you have on your truck?
Right now it is drum/drum with master cylinder under the floor. Right now I do not have the funds to change to disc/drum. So I was looking at least put a dual master for safety until I have the funds to switch. When I go to disc/drum should I put a power booster?
If the MC you are using now is for drum/drum you may not need the inline residual valve since the MC should have 10 lb residual valves built in. If it is made for disc/drum and you are using it for drum/drum you will need one for the front but probably not for the rear. A power booster is not necessary unless you just prefer power brakes. I have used a manual under the floor MC and it worked fine. Also, non-power MCs are not the same bore as power MCs so you should not add a booster unless you have the right MC. Alternatively, if you try to use a power MC without a booster you may not have enough pedal pressure.
I have not looked yet, but I am sure the one on my truck now is the stock single bowl master. That is why I am looking to put a dual master on it. I will eventually put disc on it. Are you sayin I can use a dual master for disc/drum with my drum/drum? That would be great because all I would have to do is but the disc conversion kit at a later date. Will I need the proportioning valve with the dual master on drum/drum?
If the MC you are using now is for drum/drum you may not need the inline residual valve since the MC should have 10 lb residual valves built in. If it is made for disc/drum and you are using it for drum/drum you will need one for the front but probably not for the rear. A power booster is not necessary unless you just prefer power brakes. I have used a manual under the floor MC and it worked fine. Also, non-power MCs are not the same bore as power MCs so you should not add a booster unless you have the right MC. Alternatively, if you try to use a power MC without a booster you may not have enough pedal pressure.
Dunno about aftermarket dual master cylinders, but...if someone is using a genuine Ford dual master cylinder...
When Ford first installed them in 1967 on cars and trucks, all these vehicles came with a (Brake Differential) Proportioning Valve.
These valves, in most cases, were mounted inboard of the left front wheel on the outside of the frame rail. Some were mounted adjacent to the steering gearbox.
On 1967 Mustangs only, the valve is mounted adjacent to the rear axle.
There were different types used for drum/drum and disc/drum brakes.
Does anyone know of a dual master that will "bolt" in, instead of the stock single bowl on a 53 F100? I was never able to find one that didn't need a bracket to adapt.
The stock bolts "from the side" and all the duals that I could find bolt "from the front"....
Does it make a difference which side of the adjustable valve the Residual valve is installed on. Your diagram shows it on the wheel side I have mine mounted on the MC side. Also I was told the adjustable units were against the law for street use does anyone know if that is true.
Originally Posted by midfifty
Here is a diagram of the check valve positioning with our dual master cylinder kits for drum/drum
the residual check valves should be installed as close to the MC as possible, but the check valve must be installed after the adjustable proportional calve
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