Master cylinder location
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 966
Likes: 27
From: Missouri
Master cylinder location
I may open a can of worms, but I would like opinions on whether keeping the master cylinder under the floor on my 53 or move it to the firewall. I had someone tell me that have seen too many problems moving it to the firewall. Also will a standard dual bowl with disc on front give better braking then just drum?
Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
From: Oconomowoc, WI
Even if you change to a vacuum boosted system keeping the master cylinder under the floorboards is a good idea.
#1 it keeps the break master and vacuum booster cooler.
#2 the firewall looks cleaner
#3 it is a lot less work
Disc on the front is a must if you go to a bigger engine. We all tend to add weight over the years and the highway speeds we now drive are a lot higher than they were back then. I consider disc brakes to be a requirement on my projects. They are just better all around. Don't forget, plan on having to buy repair parts on the road eventually. Sooner or later you will have a problem and it helps to be able to buy standard parts for a late model car/truck when possible. I am talking about any modification, suspension, alternator etc.
#1 it keeps the break master and vacuum booster cooler.
#2 the firewall looks cleaner
#3 it is a lot less work
Disc on the front is a must if you go to a bigger engine. We all tend to add weight over the years and the highway speeds we now drive are a lot higher than they were back then. I consider disc brakes to be a requirement on my projects. They are just better all around. Don't forget, plan on having to buy repair parts on the road eventually. Sooner or later you will have a problem and it helps to be able to buy standard parts for a late model car/truck when possible. I am talking about any modification, suspension, alternator etc.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,173
Likes: 4,780
From: Burbank, WA
The only problems with moving the brake stuff to the firewall is the associated work of doing the job; replacing pedals, bracing the firewall and underdash, plumbing, packaging, etc. There's a reason Detroit did the change 65 years ago. Hanging pedals are arguably more comfortable to use than the through the floor type. Or at least, we're used to them now. And servicing the unit is infinitely easier, too. It's really all a matter of personal preference and how much work one has the desire to do.
Disc brake braking is more efficient and consistent than drums. Discs also take more pedal effort than drums, so that's why you very rarely ever saw manual disc brakes. I would advise if you're going to add disc brakes, go with a power booster and a dual chamber master cylinder designed for disc brakes. Get the stuff from the same people so you know you have matching parts. Brakes is the last place you want to skimp or try to save that last nickel.
Disc brake braking is more efficient and consistent than drums. Discs also take more pedal effort than drums, so that's why you very rarely ever saw manual disc brakes. I would advise if you're going to add disc brakes, go with a power booster and a dual chamber master cylinder designed for disc brakes. Get the stuff from the same people so you know you have matching parts. Brakes is the last place you want to skimp or try to save that last nickel.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 282
Likes: 1
From: Texas
I prefer a clean engine bay myself. Although there are some 90-degree mounted master cylinder/pedal assemblies out there that might fit under the stock dash if you wanted to keep the firewall clean and have hanging pedals.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 586
Likes: 0
From: East Palestine, Ohio
The master cylinder on my truck is mounted under the floor. Pain in the neck to check because the hole in the floor is forward of the cylinder because of the vacuum booster. If i had it to do over again i would leave the MC were it is but get a remote fill kit for it.
Terry
Terry
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 175
Likes: 4
From: Reno, NV
That was precisely my plan. Not there yet, but I am going to keep the "under floor" setup. I plan on getting the No Limit Engineering kit with the power booster and the relocation setup. Should be nice and clean, easily accessible and less work then the firewall mounted option. I'm running disc up front and drum in the rear.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 14
From: Pflugerville, tx
I did the firewall mount and it was easy... now its in the way all the time. clutters up the view..
next will be under the floor..
talked to a couple folks with them under the dash, and they are a bit.h to service and keep the interior clean.. (imagine brake fluid on your carpet)..
Sam
next will be under the floor..
talked to a couple folks with them under the dash, and they are a bit.h to service and keep the interior clean.. (imagine brake fluid on your carpet)..
Sam
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 282
Likes: 1
From: Texas
I've got 4-wheel discs and the Master Cylinder is under the floor in the stock location. No power booster. I drive this sucker everywhere everyday and don't feel the need to upgrade to power brakes. If I end up doing an engine swap I might, that's MIGHT, install a hydroboost power brake setup under the floor. It'll give me the power brakes without a big ugly low-hanging booster and no chance for vacuum leaks.
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Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 966
Likes: 27
From: Missouri
My next question is keeping it under the floor I have heard and read you need residue valves. Are these are to get set up correctly as far as the pressure you need? Originally I was staying under the floor going with powr but it will push the master cylinder away from the inspection hole and will be a pain to check and refill. How will do the remote fills work? What about the hydorboost AstroFab mentioned? How do these work good?
New User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: Central Pa
I pit this setup on mine and it works great:
Power brakes FORD TRUCKS 47-52 + cars 1941-1948 - eBay (item 330522953793 end time Jan-31-11 06:59:22 PST)
My truck isn't lowered and he said I wouldn't need the residue valves.
I've run it for over 6 months and no problems.
Very easy to install.
Power brakes FORD TRUCKS 47-52 + cars 1941-1948 - eBay (item 330522953793 end time Jan-31-11 06:59:22 PST)
My truck isn't lowered and he said I wouldn't need the residue valves.
I've run it for over 6 months and no problems.
Very easy to install.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 175
Likes: 4
From: Reno, NV
Typically you would want to install residual valves in any under floor master cylinder setup. If for nothing else, then for peace of mind. And a remote fill is exactly as it sounds. You will have a reservoir that you can mount remotely for ease of filling/checking your fluids. There will be lines that run from your remote reservoir back to your master cylinder.
Edit: Here's a good link on info. for residual and proportioning valves...
http://ecihotrodbrakes.com/brake_facts.html
&
http://www.thebrakeman.com/valvetechi
Edit: Here's a good link on info. for residual and proportioning valves...
http://ecihotrodbrakes.com/brake_facts.html
&
http://www.thebrakeman.com/valvetechi
Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 88
Likes: 1
From: Central Valley, CA
I am still undecided which way I will go as I plan on putting a manual trans i my truck which is why I was considering relocating master/booster up to the firewall and using speedways hydraulic slave & master for the clutch. My donor car is a 83 GT mustang with a T5 that I bought brand new back in the day and kept it around for sentimental reasons. That being said if I keep the brake system under the floor all I would need is the basic bracket from no limit as my mustang master and booster will bolt right up to it. The only thing I would add for piece of mind is the residual valves. The final decision will be dictated after I set the motor in to see how the exhaust will need to be routed which is my main concern with keeping everything under the floor.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 4,963
Likes: 261
From: East KY
I pit this setup on mine and it works great:
Power brakes FORD TRUCKS 47-52 + cars 1941-1948 - eBay (item 330522953793 end time Jan-31-11 06:59:22 PST)
My truck isn't lowered and he said I wouldn't need the residue valves.
I've run it for over 6 months and no problems.
Very easy to install.
Power brakes FORD TRUCKS 47-52 + cars 1941-1948 - eBay (item 330522953793 end time Jan-31-11 06:59:22 PST)
My truck isn't lowered and he said I wouldn't need the residue valves.
I've run it for over 6 months and no problems.
Very easy to install.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 369
Likes: 1
From: Indiana
I must be nuts for rockin stock brakes then! 
They were fully rebuilt with new lines, wheel cyls, shoes, master cyl, hardware kits and adjusters. They stop much better than I was expecting them to...I figured to leave well enough alone till I start building more HP. Yeah, I know they are not as effective as disc brakes, but money determined my build at that point. Eventually I will get the disc brake kit.
They were fully rebuilt with new lines, wheel cyls, shoes, master cyl, hardware kits and adjusters. They stop much better than I was expecting them to...I figured to leave well enough alone till I start building more HP. Yeah, I know they are not as effective as disc brakes, but money determined my build at that point. Eventually I will get the disc brake kit.