First, I am not going to pretend that I know it all, because that would be far from the truth. This site has helped me learn allot thank you all.

The first question I have is, I found a rear end that is a full floating, I believe it is a dana 60 or 70? It is from a mid 1970 f-250 2wd camper special. I compared it to the dana 60 I have on my truck but it looks bigger and is a full floater. I would like to know what it is and the gearing ratio? The next question I have is, can I put this on my truck 1981 f250 4X4

I want to convert my dana 44 IFS to a solid axle, I have been told that an older dana 60 will be to narrow? and will have to look to a newer truck? or should I stick with my dana 44 and a beefed up the rear dana full floater. I will be using my truck for some pretty serious off roading and intermediate rock crawling. I want to run 35" tires.

Next I have found for sale a 14" bolt, posi, 4:56 gears, and a dana 60 front, will this chevy dana 60 front fit on my truck?
Sorry for using the C word (hehehe)

Finally what will I have to expect in swapping my IFS for a solid axle? I am an "intermediate" mechanic and have done allot of work on vehicles over the years but, I am not sure about the whole conversion aspect.

Thank you,
1981 f250 4X4
300-6
dana 44 IFS
dana 60 rear
t-18 granny
soon 6" lift and 35's

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 28-May-01 AT 05:32 AM (EST)[/font][p]>The first question I have is,
>I found a rear end
>that is a full floating,
>I believe it is a
>dana 60 or 70? It
>is from a mid 1970
>f-250 2wd camper special. I
>compared it to the dana
>60 I have on my
>truck but it looks bigger
>and is a full floater.
>I would like to know
>what it is and the
>gearing ratio? The next question
>I have is, can I
>put this on my truck
>1981 f250 4X4
Yes, but you might have to rework the spring perches and maybe the shocks, as far as the gear goes, just spin the drive line until the tires make 1 full turn or turn the wheels 1 time and cound the drive line turns. If the drive line turn 4 times per 1 turn of the wheel its a 400, 3.5 times is a 350...

>I want to convert my dana
>44 IFS to a solid
>axle, I have been told
>that an older dana 60
>will be to narrow? and
>will have to look to
>a newer truck? or should
>I stick with my dana
>44 and a beefed up
>the rear dana full floater.
>I will be using my
>truck for some pretty serious
>off roading and intermediate rock
>crawling. I want to run
>35" tires.
The D44 will handle the 35's and the conversion to a D60 is tough for 3 reasons, D60 are rare, expensive and it would be a lot of work, I'd tend to run the D44, I have a D44 solid with 35's and every time I see a D60 front end its about $2500+ so I'm looking into stronger axles and housing supports.


>Next I have found for sale
>a 14" bolt, posi, 4:56
>gears, and a dana 60
>front, will this chevy dana
>60 front fit on my
>truck?
>Sorry for using the C word
>(hehehe)
I think the chevy has the diff on the pass side and that might not line up with the drive shaft, I think yours would be on the drivers side.

>Finally what will I have to
>expect in swapping my IFS
>for a solid axle? I
>am an "intermediate" mechanic and
>have done allot of work
>on vehicles over the years
>but, I am not sure
>about the whole conversion aspect.

A lot of work! If you really want to do it, I'd get a full setup from a junk yard or buy a parting out truck and just replace the whole setup (D60, brakes, steering, linkages...) then fit up a drive line, but this is still a lot of work. By the way, the IFS offers a better ride and I'm not sure if the extra strength would be worth the money and work, you might be better off having any weak points upgrades like stronger axles, ujoints...

I'd look at the strength of the front end carefully and then try to find a D60 first, by then I bet you change your mind. I think the standard D44 is 3300# and the D60 is 3800# and I can't see paying $2500~$3000 for that.

Had to ask, what 'WolfFace' mean? Do you have a Wolf?

 

I am pretty sure the rating on the D-60 is 4500#.Does anyone know for sure.I know you can fix the 44 a lot of times compared to what a 60 costs. But it sure is nice to be able to HAMMER DOWN and not worry about it.





---------------------------------------
1972 Ford F-250 4x4 Dana 60/14 Bolt
4.88's, detroits, 40" Hawgs, rear PTO
winch, 390 c.i., N.P. 435, Dana 24
---------------------------------------

 

karljay, thanks for the info, the part about spining the tire is great. Wolfface is the name of my archery club, Wolfface Archery and Sport Target Association, I was looking for an agressive name and saw a picture of a wolf coming out of the dark and you can just make out his face. I though this picture of a wolf's face was all about archery in to many words that only one name could sum up, wolfface.
thanks again

 

I picked up those ratings off another post and may have gotten them wrong but it seemed that the difference wasn't enough to justify the huge cost. When I paid $1300 to buy my whole truck and it was 90% complete and ran, then I see prices for twice that just for a front axle it makes me think. I heard that the D44 wasn't too strong because it was a rear made to work in the front and that's why they made the high pinion D44 (but that's just another rumor)

I wonder if a support beam welded to the top and bottom of the D44 housing and stonger axles would get it into the D60 strength range?

Better idea, make so much money that I can afford anything I want!