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Anybody have any experience with this type welder. I'm in the market for a MIG and have found this one used for about $475. It runs off 220 and I think I would prefer 110 but my main question has to do with can this one be turned down enough to do body panels. That is mainly what I want it for is to weld sheet metal on my 54 rebuild. I'm taking a welding class down at the local community college and primarily use a Lincoln 140 but the instructor has really been good about us learning how to set the machine up properly regardless of brand so I am not so concerned with the fact that it is not a Lincoln as does it have too much juice and is not adjustable enough to do the body panel work that I am getting it for. Again, I would like to have the option to plug it in anywhere with 110 but does the 220 provide a benefit I should consider?
I would rather have a machine that runs on 220, it will be able to weld heavier metal if you ever have to weld something that is structural. You can always adjust down, it's hard to make a small unit work big. You won't have any problems using the unit you're looking at. You may want to use a small diameter wire, something like .025 to weld sheet metal. I have a Lincoln welder I use .035 wire to weld sheet metal. I know I should go smaller but I haven't gotten around to buying the new hose liner or push wheel for the smaller wire. Also, check into easy grind wire. Axracer has recommended a product that I don't recall at this moment but he'll probably jump in and let you know. If not do a search of his posts.
The best thing to do is talk to your welding teacher. He will know what it will take to weld on sheet metal. Tell him what you're looking at and ask him what is the best way to set it up.
Thanks Bob. Plan to talk with the instructor tonight and get his opinion. He is a top notch welder but doesn't have much interest or experience dealing with auto restoration which is why I wanted to throw it to the forum for a second opinion. Good advice about being able to do heavier structural repair with 220. I definitely will have a few repairs to the frame so that will come in handy. My concern was that I could not turn the heat down enough to prevent burning a hole through the thin sheet metal. I would think .025 to be the right filler but always like hearing from the guys that have "been there, done that". Thanks for the feedback.
I have the Hobart 187, and love it! 220 is definitely the way to go, and I'm using .023 wire. I'm welding 18 gauge, without any problem whatsoever. Plus, I don't have to change the liner.
I even made the rear cab corners, and the Hobart handled it perfectly...
Sounds like a great price on the 175 - I paid $550 for my 187
You got a great deal on a pretty nice welder. I have a Hobart 180 and love it. It can handle everything from frame work to sheetmetal. I love mine I could not do without it.
Thanks for the feedback. Great pics Roger! It looks like you know what you are doing with a welder. Do you know of any improvements they made to the 180 & 187 that would be substanially different than the 175. I don't know how old a model the 175 is but I have heard a couple of knocks about not being able to turn the heat down enough to weld the thin stuff. I was under the impression that the minimum wire I can run thru it is .030. Valid or just hearsay?
I had a chance to see it today. It looks like it has had minimal use but I don't think the owner knew how to use it properly and it may have some damage that isn't apparent. I think he has only welded a few items and never bothered to get any shielding gas. I guess just flux core stuff. That's what he had loaded in it...about half a spool was left. I don't think it's a $200 helmet these days...probably closer to $50 but it did have the nice cart. Not sure what those accesories add to the value of the package but he wants $500 for the welder, helmet, cart, and 2.5 spools of wire.
Does it still sound like a good deal?
Oh and one more thing to consider. I do have a stick welder although I haven't learned to use that yet. We're supposed to cover that in an upcoming class also. Looking forward to getting some use out of it. My dad bought it 35 years ago and it was hardly ever used and handed down to me. Since I have access to a stick welder that I can use to do thicker type stuff would i be better trying to get a smaller, 110 MIG with which I could do the thinner stuff?
Once you use the MIG welder the stick welder will probably just continue sitting in the corner. You can use the MIG for everything, the stick will be good for heavy duty work but how much of that do you plan on doing? I do everything with my MIG.
The thing to look into a short arc machine is if it has a tap voltage control it most likley won't turn down enough to weld thin sheetmetal. If it has an infinite voltage control it will do anything you want to with it.
I would use the stick machine and set it up with a dry rig TIG setup and weld anything heavy with it.
I have an older Lincoln SP130 220V Mig unit I picked up at the local Pawn Shop for $250.00. The guy didn't know what he had, he thought it was a stick welder (LOL). I had a little 85 amp 110V unit from Grainger and the difference is like night and day between the two. When you pull the trigger on that Lincoln you better be ready to weld it doesn't mess around (eggs and beacon for sure). I haven't used it on sheet metal yet, I installing a quarter panel in my Nova so I will soon see how it does.
I do have a couple of frame repairs that will require something more robust. That's where I thought I might use the stick if I went with a smaller MIG. The Lincoln 140 we use in class has the infinite voltage control, at least that's what I think you call it. You can position the dial anywhere it doesn't click between A, B, C, etc. The Hobart on the other hand does clcik beween each setting. Seems like it might not be quite as adjustable.
Another thing to note here, Hobart is owned by the Miller company, they are both nice products as is the Lincoln. I have the smaller Miller, a Millermatic 135. It is a 110v machine and I love it. Sure there are times where a 220 machine would be nice but they are few and far between (and my brother-in-law has the 175 and lives close by).
I like the Millers because the controls are infinately adjustable.
I say go for it, you won't regret it. As Bob said, you can run a big machine small but not a small machine big.
Mike,
You might go to the Hobart website at Hobart Welders as they have a section with owners manuals for their products. If you know the serial number for the unit you are considering, you can download the manual specific to that model. If not, you get the manual for the current production configuration of that model. It should provide some insight into the ratings/settings/capabilities of the machine. You can also compare to the other models to see if they have any improvements worth the price difference. If you have a Northern Tool locally, they usually have good prices on these machines. FWIW, I went with the Miller 135 to get the "infinitely adjustable" current and wire speed controls. I would have liked to have gotten the 175, but finances didn't allow it.
Good Luck!
The main difference between the Hobart 175 and the 187 is the number of voltage settings. The 175 has 4 settings, the 187 has 7 settings. It gives you a finer adjustment.
I think $500 for the welder, helmet, cart and the wire sounds like a fair price.
I don't know what they go for in the U.S. but at TSC here in Canada a Hobart 187 goes for $750, cart runs around $75-100, decent helmet around $50 (not auto darkening) not sure about wire. Anyway probably close to $1000 for all by the time you add in tax
Can you tell I badly want this welder???
Thanks for the tip on the Hobart website. There is alot of great info there and I was able to browse the owner's manual for a 175. There was also a welding forum on the site that helps welders the way this forum helps us guys with the truck sickness. The only knock on the 175 they had was the concern on the low end. Sounds like that was part of the improvement with the 180 and then the 187(the 7 settings you describe versus the 4). As far as prices, I saw some comments about a new 187 at TSC in the $540 range but only when they had a killer sale. Might be worth waiting to get a new one that performs better at the lower end. Seems like the cart and helmet might be adding more to his price than they are worth. I think for $400 I wouldn't blink but at 500 the difference vs. new might not be worth the hassle. I can get a Lincoln 140 like they have in class for $480. Decisions, decisions...
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