ok guys need advice on......
what mods you guys recommend, im shooting for around 550-600 RWH DD.
what mods on 6.0 will get e there, want to start with smaller ones but want to plan ahead so i dot have to change anything again when the rest of upgrades get installed,
Headstuds are #1 on my list.
gauges ill have those :Pyro ,trans, boost
exhaust i think stacks - 6" bullhaulers,or 4" MBRP SS turbo back
fuel system - which one ?
injectors ? who, where
any mods to the trans needed?
what ealse.....
can you guys post prices and what you have what worked for you with approximate prices...
thanks
Peter
While you are in there:
HPOP STC fitting replacement
Larger turbo oil drain (this takes care of itself w/ a new turbo)
clean the IPR screen while you are in there
most would say - eliminate the EGR system (and probably proactively replace your oil cooler)
Add a fuel pressure gauge
fuel system - FASS 180/180
ITP (or equivalent) Return Regulated Fuel System
Stage 2 injectors (maybe even Stage 3 to get to 600 hp)
Josh rebuilds injectors for Spartan. Josh's company is River City Diesel.
or
Casserly 165's
Tranny good to 500 hp IIRC. After that, billet input shaft, new torque converter, aftermarket pan to stiffen it up, probably some others.
Non VGT Turbo (at least a 68 mm) OR dual turbos
SCT tuner w/ custom tunes.
New air intake for over 500 hp. and a 4 inch turbo back exhaust.
You may need a new intercooler - others will know more on this.
Last edited by bismic; Sep 29, 2008 at 08:18 PM. Reason: added info
The injectors can be $1500 and up. The turbo can be $3000 and up.
There are other far more qualified than I to talk about the performance upgrades, but I do keep a pretty fair write-up on mods in one of my spreadsheets.
Tex25025 won't be able to resist adding his knowledge to this thread

I would think that many would say that ARP studs would be good enough - the H11's may be overkill (but then again it is only a few hundred $'s more in parts). Their downside is that they are more brittle from what I hear.
I just had my sons tranny built up for increased hp - but not 600. His cost was $3200. I would bet that it would be at least that (and probably more) for 600 hp on the 6.0L.
so we talking 8-10k to get 500-600 hp truck...
not bad....
who did your sons trans? i heard ATS is good with 6.0 trans....
I checked into ATS and Suncoast. As it turned out, I found a local shop with a great reputation so I had them do the 400 rwhp upgrade. This rebuild was equal to a SunCoast quote that I had:
Precision TorqueConverter
Suncoast billet input shaft
New transmission fluid cooler
Rebuild list (sorry for too much info, but I am very pleased so far!):
low roller clutch
inner race return spring
low/rev clutch drum
low/rev clutches & steel 36100 wear plates 6 pinion rear planetary
6 planet forward
4R100 front planet hub
bonded piston overdrive & coast clutch
HD intermediate sprag
36231 washer
pump body bushing
one piece tail shaft bushing
wear bushing and bearing kits
alto red eagle clutches & kolene steel increased clutch count in forward, direct, intermediate & overdrive
intermediate servo
solenoid pack
custom valve body build parts
4R100 pan, oil & filter
The downside here is the $6000 + price tag!!
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but i see whats my budget for 6.0 LOL.
so thats why id like to plan ahead to get things prep for bigger #....
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
500 is pretty much the most reasonably attainable hp for the money.
I have my build priced at 8k with labor. I can try and dig up the quote and scan it tomorrow maybe.
My goal is 500hp once my heads lift. My part list is basically what bismic listed with spartans stage II injectors. I'm going to try and do it with the stock turbo until she gives out.
Also you might want to note that once you aim higher than 500hp your going to start losing some towing ability. To me that was my biggest concern.
there is a big difference in money between 500hp and 600hp but there are many trucks pushing big numbers like this with out drugs so you should be able to figure out what you need to do.
not sure if you are going to do the work yourself but if not you can save money by having the shop do all the work at one time when they lift the cab and this will save a lot in labor. Ex. Once you are getting head studs, get your injectors, turbo(s), and egr deleted all at the same time.
the way i had my truck built was to have reliability/power but not push the limits. i talked to Matt when he was doing my tunes and told him that i wanted him to tune conservatively and even pretend i had stock head bolts. i was on the dyno once with my truck using my daily driver custom conservative hybrid race tune and put down the numbers in my sig. nothing to really brag about but the torque was good and i don't worry about blowing anything up.
FYI some stock trucks with hot SCT tunes are pushing 420+hp with nothing more than a tune.
look forward to seeing what you decide to do with you truck!
Going to need more then that. Fuel pressure, water temp(and/or oil temp), differential. When your pushing that much, heat and getting enough fuel are going to be your biggest enemies.
Never was a fan of stacks(no matter where they were located), but you'll need a 5" system, 4" is going to be too restrictive, 6" might still be too much, depends on if your closer to 600 or closer to 550.
I like my FASS system, but airdog is another one that people speak of highly. Whichever one get the biggest.
Mine are from Casserly(his place is about a 20 min drive from me), but Josh is another good one, he did my turbo(and his does all the turbos for Matt).
Turbo, non-vgt. No more EGR, that will definately fail on you with all this stuff on there. Depending on rather or not you still want streetability with this thing well depend on how up on both the turbo and the injector you can go, without pushing everything so high up the rpm band that you won't be using much on the street(atleast not safely). Stage III injectors would be the highest that I would go and still maintain good street manners without having to have to go to a twin turbo setup. You couple those stage IIIs with either a 66 or 68 mm non-vgt turbo and I think you'll have reached your goal and still have a good streetable truck. Another limitation to all this is if your towing a trailer with this rig or not, but if your thinking about all this, I would doubt that that would be an issue, but I just thought I would mention it anyway on the off chance it still was.
EDIT: I don't know how I forgot this last item, I preach about it enough I shouldn't have. ITP's Regulated Return kit as well. That will help those modified injectors(especially since the stockers need it too) last longer and help you maintain good fuel flow to the injectors.
Also either a Bank's(only thing of theirs that I actually like) intercooler or a Spearco intercooler. I like the thickness of the Bank's, but I like the material of the Spearco(go figure).
well at some point we are going to get a travel trailer, so i guess 500RWH thats what i stick with and leave it there.
i think that will wake up the truck and keep a smile on my face.....
If you stay around 500hp then stock gaskets should be sufficient for that(I'm around that rating now and I still use stockers). The turbo I have is more then enough for 500hp, if you want to make sure that you get 500hp without creative tuning to get there(what Matt had to do for me) then get stage II injectors, but do not, do not get stage IIIs if your planning on towing a trailer of significant weight. However, what I have in my siggy is sufficient to get you around 500hp and the ole girl is definately awake.










