Took my '06 in for service last week, oil dripping from the right side of block, coolant spraying out the cap when towing (26k miles) and some other minor bumper to bumper warranty items.

Today I get a call from the service dept, they replaced the radiator cap, changed the fan clutch, and can't find the oil leak (even though the side of the block is covered).

Their biggest concern is that the oil and water temp has a 27 degree differance and that I'm using the wrong oil (Rotella 15-40 since new)...

 

Your oil cooler is clogging up.
1. Find a new service department. These guys' limp-wristed fixes aren't addressing the problem.
2. Prepare to replace oil cooler, head gaskets, EGR cooler, and maybe heads if this continues. Tell (don't ask) the diesel tech to install ARP head studs when this happens. I'd install a coolant filter too.

 

we cant be told to do anything that is out of warranty guidelines. a stock truck will do fine with stock bolts.

 

Whats supposedly wrong with the 15w-40?

If theyre saying thats the wrong oil......well I would definitely try another service department.....the only other possible "regular" option would be a 5w-40, but thats an option, 15w-40 is what is recommended all the time (at least by anyone competent).

 

HUH?

I guess that's why my bone stock 6.0 is in the shop getting a head gasket job at 60k miles?? I guess that's also why I am going to wait a while since there are 8 other 6.0 HG jobs in front of me!

 

What are the cause of the Head Gasket failures? Are they caused by stuck turbo vains from the owner letting the truck idle too much? Do you drive away in the morning with a lead foot before you let the engine warm up? Did you have EGR/Oil Cooler failures at the same time the gaskets went? There are too many ways these trucks can blow head gaskets because the owner's aren't educated on how to prevent them from failing. I blew my gaskets running stock, but since then I have installed the high idle mod, coolant bypass filter, gauges and I use B2 diesel and Powerservice in the gray bottle. I also don't let the rpm's get above 2,000 until the oil temp has reached at least 160. This is the best site to learn about your truck and BowTieHatr is one of the most knowledgeable members (there are many others too) on this site. He knows what he's talking about. I agree with BowTieHatr... a stock truck will do fine with stock bolts; as long as people educate themselves on how to prevent head gasket failures, etc and that's where this site comes in.

 

it is true! many people are too quick to jump straight to the conclusion that if the head gaskets go then it's the head bolts fault without actually trying to figure out what caused them to go.

"what? my head gaskets are blown? lets blame it on the bolts!"

now i'm not at all saying that the bolts can't stretch and cause head gasket failure but if you look at what else has to be replaced at the same time then there are too many factors that can cause them to go out. i mean someone goes into the dealership and gets the turbo replaced and head gaskets. i have never heard of head gaskets going out which in turn makes the turbo go bad. c'mon guys.

 

from the factory the setup sucks i will admit. there are to many variables within robots torquing these bolts down. there are alot of head gasket failures with these stock bolts, BUT were the bolts ever torqued properly?????? 2 out of 3 head jobs i do i find most if not all of the bolts are loose. if it was due to bolt stretch, then why would ALL be "loose" when i go to break the bolts loose? i could understand the bolts being stretched across 1 or 2 cylinders due to metal fatigue but i dont feel like that. the head jobs i have done, whether its on ambulances or logging trucks or just the daily driver with tuners, i have never done a stud kit nor will i do it here unless i am compensated for it. all of the trucks i have done, seal up nicely and whenever i pull the degas cap off after a ***** out drive, i get a mouse fart of air and thats normally about all i get after the repairs. i know i torque my bolts correctly, and i know that when i am done it is right. i cant say that about coming from the factory because a human isnt involved with the compassionate side of the job. the heads have to be torqued down properly to last due to the horrible design of the bolts having to hold down what they do through the rocker box.

 

The design certainly isn't the best. One of the early 6.0 issues with TTY bolts was imporperly torqued head bolts in new engines from Navistar.

Thanks for posting and sharing your wisdom BTH, Rep 2U!

 

Spoke with the service dept. again last night. The oil cooler was clogged, not from the coolant but the oil side. Once it was mentioned the oil since new was Rotella, it was a mute point. They are replacing both the oil and EGR cooler and egr valve. Turbo being taken off this morning to chack vanes and housing. Rear main leaking so that's getting replaced also. The pressure check of the cooling is a concern as it will not hold pressure the entire time. Heads are coming off to be checked. I was told by both the dealer and my uncle (Sr. Ford/Nav service mgr truck div.) that Ford has new design bolts that get installed with head gasket changes starting the beginning of this year, but they have to be requested with the new part number.

 

Please verify this by posting part numbers for the new design bolts. I have heard many people claim that upgraded bolts had occurred, but when questioned, the folks that made these claims could not produce any proof. In fact, the contacts that I have within Ford actually contradict this and say the bolts are still the same.

It would be nice if there were better bolts, but I would still insist on studs!

 

Post deleted.

 

Post Deleted?! So is there a new designed head bolt? I am curious as i have a 03 with 36000 miles. I don't anticipate any problems but ya never know.

 

I just wanted to clarify my previous post. I do believe that stock bolts, when installed properly on heads that aren't warped to begin with, can give you a reliable stock truck - IF the truck is well cared for AND if you do not have issues like stuck turbo vanes or other detrimental problems. There are many cases where mods, poor maintenance, or harsh operating practices have been the root cause of head gasket issues. There have also been plenty of cases where the vehicle owner did nothing to cause (or deserve) the head gasket failures.

I guess my point is - what does it matter if you find yourself losing coolant and needing new head gaskets??

The real world (IMO) is that if you are into the engine to replace head gaskets to begin with, why would you not want head studs? The benefit is clear - you can have a platform for more power AND reliability - even if you have issues w/ the EGR system, over boost, etc. down the road.

There are many dealerships that will work with you on installing studs, but (as BTH said) you really can't demand them if they don't want to install them. Find a reliable dealership that will work with you, develop a good relationship with them, and you will have much better results.

I suppose if I could not find a dealership to install studs (which is a moot point since there is a dealership close by me that does install them), I would be hard pressed to have studs installed at my own cost vs warranty work to rebuild w/ bolts. This is where knowing whether or not new bolts are used becomes VERY important. For those out there that do not have a dealership that is willing to work w/ you on studs - I hope there really are new/better bolts out there. I am just skeptical of it.

 

same bolts new torque procedure.