Need some help sputtering won't hold throttle
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 670
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From: Federal Way Wa
Need some help sputtering won't hold throttle
!966 352 2bbl motorcraft rebuilt carb new plugs, cap, rotor fuel pump. running out of ideas vacum holds at 20 can't find any leaks but when i rev it up it sputters and wants to die idles great and seems to run a little better with choke on but not great. Can't accelerate without feathering throttle. if anyone can come up with anything i haven't tried i'd appreciate it. I've had the truck for about 12 yrs and no problems worked fine till the other day and i'm out of ideas Thanks Rob
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 670
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From: Federal Way Wa
tried most of that
all that is good except the condenser. Would that cause a problem like this? I never think about replacing the condenser when i tune. I did find something in the idle jets when i took them out and blew them out and replaced it seemed to get better but not like it was to begin with.
Thanks
Rob
Thanks
Rob
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
Sounds like the accelerator pump is not keeping up, which is very common in any Autolite I've had.
Look closely at the "Rube Goldberg" spring loaded mechanism that operates the pump lever. Pump the throttle(by hand) quickly and watch the pump arm. You'll notice it's slow to react, thus giving you a big dead spot when you take off. Take some WD40 and spray on the spring and arms. That wound up spring on the throttle arm is what actuates the pump arm. If it's "stiff" then it won't move quick enough. My biggest pet peeve of these carbs is the faulty pump linkage. Keep it lubed up and it works fairly well.
If you rebuilt the carb(soaked it in cleaner), likely it got gunked up and now doesn't work as well as before.
Look closely at the "Rube Goldberg" spring loaded mechanism that operates the pump lever. Pump the throttle(by hand) quickly and watch the pump arm. You'll notice it's slow to react, thus giving you a big dead spot when you take off. Take some WD40 and spray on the spring and arms. That wound up spring on the throttle arm is what actuates the pump arm. If it's "stiff" then it won't move quick enough. My biggest pet peeve of these carbs is the faulty pump linkage. Keep it lubed up and it works fairly well.
If you rebuilt the carb(soaked it in cleaner), likely it got gunked up and now doesn't work as well as before.
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Federal Way Wa
i'll try that i did move the linkage so it would react quicker but it's embareassing when it hesitates from a stop if i feather it it will go.
P.S. anyone know a good place for fenders need one bad previous owner put about 2 inches of bondo on mine and are now garbage.
Thanks for info Freightrain
P.S. anyone know a good place for fenders need one bad previous owner put about 2 inches of bondo on mine and are now garbage.
Thanks for info Freightrain
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Hesitating, bogging down upon acceleration, sputtering, crapping out. All these signs point to one thing: A 1962/79 Ford 2V carb.
There's a check valve that goes behind the acc pump diaphragm that has a tit on it that always breaks off, so that'll need replacing too.
The parts can be bought separately or with the carb kit.
C4AZ9B559A .. Accelerator Pump Diaphram (Motorcraft CM463)
C4AZ9576A .. Accelerator Pump Check Valve (Motorcraft CM825)
D4AZ9A586A .. Carb Kit (Motorcraft CT499D)
These parts fit all Auto-Lite & Motorcraft 2V carbs from 1962 thru 1974.
Note to all:
CAVEAT EMPTOR: When you remove the cover for the accelerator pump, remove it slowly...there's a coil spring behind it!
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Federal Way Wa
Thanks freightrain that came with the rebuild kit and was replaced. I know P.O.S. carb just hoping i don't need one right now. What is a good affordable carb for replacement?
Thanks
Rob
Thanks
Rob
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Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Not to worry, the same POS 2V carb was used 1962/74. The 1975/79's aren't much better.
So, the questions could be asked in a 4th forum besides these three: '61/66 / '67/72 / '73/79, because there's another on carbs.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
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From: Ohio
On my wagon(when it had original 289), I actually WIRED the linkage together to MAKE it squirt fuel to get rid of the bog/sputter/hesitation. It was short lived, but was better then nothing.
You could bolt on a Holley 350 cfm and it would run sweeter then a Rolex! Bit pricey though.
You could bolt on a Holley 350 cfm and it would run sweeter then a Rolex! Bit pricey though.
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Federal Way Wa
Thanks, yea i'll have to save up for that one. Just got done restoring a 1971 VW Squareback for my wife and now it's betsy's turn it's just going a little slow. Kind of a do we really need it type thing. I'm afraid if i go get another notorcrapt carb i'll still have the same problems. Thanks for your help though and if i have more troubles i'll contact you if that's ok.
Thanks
Rob in Federal Way
Thanks
Rob in Federal Way
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Federal Way Wa
Yea these guys are good. I've since figured out my problem was lack of use. Had some crud in the tank and cleaned out. No more problems except she's cold-blooded as heck.
Rob
Rob
