"A carb with electric choke can make all the difference in the world."

"Hesitating, bogging down upon acceleration, sputtering, crapping out.
All these signs point to one thing: A 1962/79 Ford 2V carb."

"Sounds like the accelerator pump is not keeping up, which is very
common in any Autolite I've had."

"...the same POS 2V carb was used 1962/74. The 1975/79's aren't much
better."

Ok, enough quotes. ;)

My '75 2100 doesn't hesitate even with the accelerator push rod removed. :)
My '75 2100 has the fuel level set below "spec" at the same time. :)

All these simple carburetors need is the "low speed circuit" jets reamed.

The "fuel systems" forum sucks... it's almost all about EFI stuff and clunky
old Autolite/Motorcraft carburetor's talk gets smothered. BTTriedT

One trick on the accelerator pump is to adjust (kink/bend;) the rod so there
is no lost motion in the system. So the pump's spring is never without
compression. :)

I'm running mine without a choke and with the rod on the lowest setting.
I'm in South East Arizona at ~3600 ft. YMMV ;)
My pickup is still covered with snow from a couple days ago.
I can go out there and start it, right now, no sweat. :)

http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/choke.jpg

It's all in the tinkering! ;)

Alvin in AZ '75 F150 360FE T18
ps- I've got several 2100 and 2150s and the low speed circuit jets have
measured anywhere from .025" to .030" but they ranged from 108's on up.
pps- reamed the jets out to sizes up to .060" as experiments and like .035"
to .040" the best with the accelerator rod on the lowest setting, if you are
at a lower altitude you might like it a little richer?
ppps- if you've got a stinkin automatic transmission...
...and/or you like to romp it like a teenager...
...you are on your own.

 

Ok so I'm going to have this thing apart this spring to do the heads and seal up all the leaks anyways. What is a good replacement carb I can use with my intake? Can't really afford to go 4bbl though i would like to. I'm not knowledgeable enough to go reaming jets or anything I do have the accelerator set so there is no play and did rebuild the carb and replaced that little flap inside the pump. The only real problem i have anymore is the hesitation when i take off. After about 2o minutes of driving it gets better but not great. I don't drive it like a kid but when i wanna go i wanna go Ya know!
Rob

 

I had the same problem with my truck when I first got it '71 camper special...

I rebuilt the carb and put a brand new distributor in it and the problem persist... the solution that I found for my truck was to unhook the vacuum advance and she runs like a top....

 

Rob, if you say you can't ream jets then I'll agree with you. :/
If you say you can ream jets I'll agree with you on that too. :) LOL

It's not only -just- a carburetor, it's a carburetor you're fixin to $%!&can.
Those are the best things-ever to work on IMO. Got nothing to lose and
everything to gain, myself, those are the only odds I'll gamble with.
(unless forced to of course)

What's the fuel level?
Is it too low by any chance?
That won't "fix" it really, but it can make it worse/better.

What tools you have to work with?
Tiny drill bits?
Micrometer?
.001" caliper?
A/O torch tip cleaners?
What have you got in the way of spare parts?
...got any old 2100 or 2150 carburetors?

What size is the carburetor that's on there?
(the size is in inches, it's cast into the left hand side of the fuel bowl)
1.08 or 1.23 or what?
My 360FE came with a 1.23.
Thinking about taking a 1.23 and making it bigger as an experiment. :)

To experiment and maybe even fix your problem, the carb-body won't need
to be removed from the intake just the lid and that large hollow screw (with
the iron or aluminum rod inside it) and the "booster assembly" removed.

Hope your gaskets don't get too screwed up to reuse and/or you bothered
to save the extra parts after your rebuild. ;) I squirt my carburetor gaskets
down with silicone and smear a little silicone grease on them too sometimes.
But I'm all the time messing with mine tho.

The booster assembly has 4 brass tubes and the two bigger ones are the
emulsion tubes and there are holes punched through them in a pattern.
There are "basically" two patterns, one ain't good and the other is good. :)
The difference can have quite an effect on power etc.

The pinched bottoms on the two thin brass tubes are the low speed circuit
jets. This ain't rocket science;) reaming those out to a little less than
double their size will be a good first try.

My scanner hasn't been working for over a year but I can try to take some
pictures, been wanting to anyway.

Are you game? :)

If not... and you buy the Holley ...can I have your old 2100? ;)

Alvin in AZ

 

Alvin
I do have lots of tiny drill bits and good intentions but not sure they necessarily go together. I would appreciate any pics you can get I do better with visuals. I'd prefer to get this thing working right to getting a new one and it's a 2100 i'll have to look at the side to get the numbers you were talking about. I could go no choke but i'd use a gallon of gas just warming her up. I do have an automatic but it's a fresh rebuilt C6 not a cruiser.
Thanks
Rob

 

Cool, anything from a #60 to a 3/64" will do it. :)
You didn't mention a micrometer or .001" reading caliper.

http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/booster.jpg

The tip of the loose thin brass tube is more like what yours will look like.
That's one of my modified boosters I experimented with.
Just ream out the pinched-down-tip with a "tiny" drill bit or torch cleaner.
The use of a micrometer will make you more sure of yourself.

Don't remove the tubes unless you absolutely have to... sometimes they
don't go back so good. ;)

-----------------------
Notice the loose emulsion tube and how it has two holes only at the top?
It actually has eight altogether all around. "2x4"
That's the crummy type of emulsion tube! :/

Look at yours so you'll know what type you have.

The best way to fix the crummy ones is to solder the holes shut you don't
want and then drill holes down the sides where you do want 'em. ;)
The good type are installed there, also have a total of eight holes. "4x2"

A local dyno shop told me that's how they fix 'em after I told them what
I'd discovered, they admitted that was their "secret fix" for these old "Ford"
carburetors. :) And the "secret" was why they didn't recommend a change
over to a Holley unless the old original was just way too shot for them to
fix.

Alvin in AZ