Do 91 351W have roller or flat lifter?
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From: Trenton, MI
Do 91 351W have roller or flat lifter?
I just check and found that Ford 351W have roller in 91 but check my 351W which is 91
NO it those flat lifter. Do you think po replace those engine with older 351W?
What roller lifter came in 351W what year?
NO it those flat lifter. Do you think po replace those engine with older 351W?
What roller lifter came in 351W what year?
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2006
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i beleive there all flat tappet those years. it wasnt until 94-95 that the roller block 351w started to be made. there is a casting number on the block that will tell you if its a roller or not, but i lost that number, im sure some one else here has it and will be able to tell you.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: NE Texas
Check for the 4TE. If you don't have a roller ready block, it's really no big deal to convert. You can get a kit from Comp that allows you to use them by drilling and tapping two holes in the lifter galley. These holes are used to hold the spider.
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Posting Guru
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From: Trenton, MI
or 93 351W do have flat lifter?
For roller lifter retro are expense than you think. $475 but flat lifter around $200-300
Cargo Master
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From: NE Texas
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Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: NE Texas
It sounds like you're getting too focused on whether or not a particular block came from the factory with roller or flat tappets. You should not worry about this. If you want roller lifters, just buy the conversion kit. It's a matter of two bolt holes.
The block selection should be made and several other MUCH more important issues such as: no cracks, cylinder walls that can clean up at some common overbore size and if you really want a good block, look for one with no core shift. That is, all the holes being centered in their bosses. These are things to watch for that will allow you to choose a block that will make a good, stout engine. Drilling a couple of holes for a roller follower hold down spider is NOTHING.
Good luck,
The block selection should be made and several other MUCH more important issues such as: no cracks, cylinder walls that can clean up at some common overbore size and if you really want a good block, look for one with no core shift. That is, all the holes being centered in their bosses. These are things to watch for that will allow you to choose a block that will make a good, stout engine. Drilling a couple of holes for a roller follower hold down spider is NOTHING.
Good luck,
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
As stated the roller conversion of an older block is expensive, and there really is little performance difference between a motor with a roller cam or a flat tappet cam with the same specs. For a performance application your money is better spent on upgraded rods and bolts.. the only real weak link for power levels up to 500HP.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: NE Texas
ski is correct. I am wondering now if you are looking for a roller lifter block or a flat tappet block. I expect that you can use a roller lifter block with flat tappets, but I don't know for sure. I've never known of anyone trying it. The only thing that would prevent it would be if the lifter oil gallery holes don't align with flat tappet lifters. I can't imagine this being the case, but I've never paid any attention to it.
ski is also correct about putting money in rods. In ANY engine, the rod is the most stressed component.
If you go with a flat tappet cam, make SURE that you use the zinc additive break in lube and continue using zinc additive or oils with zinc additive. Regular motor oil including the synthetics no longer have it. The diesel engine oils such as Delvac, Delo and Rotella T are the best choices for flat tappet health.
ski is also correct about putting money in rods. In ANY engine, the rod is the most stressed component.
If you go with a flat tappet cam, make SURE that you use the zinc additive break in lube and continue using zinc additive or oils with zinc additive. Regular motor oil including the synthetics no longer have it. The diesel engine oils such as Delvac, Delo and Rotella T are the best choices for flat tappet health.
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From: Trenton, MI
This why I ask you because I didn't want flat lifter because I knew it will wipe cam with regular oil.
I bought very expense oil for my 79 F150 300 which have flat lifter which is Rotella T 5w40 synthetic it seem help run quiet than 15w40 that would raise oil pressure to 70 psi and extreme hot in 95oF would get 15 psi.
I notice when light tap on gas pedal then oil pressure will raise from 15-20 to 40-50 psi easy.
I read at comp cam they say no synthetic oil so that 5w40 synthetic won't work? It is diesel oil.
I bought very expense oil for my 79 F150 300 which have flat lifter which is Rotella T 5w40 synthetic it seem help run quiet than 15w40 that would raise oil pressure to 70 psi and extreme hot in 95oF would get 15 psi.
I notice when light tap on gas pedal then oil pressure will raise from 15-20 to 40-50 psi easy.
I read at comp cam they say no synthetic oil so that 5w40 synthetic won't work? It is diesel oil.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Concord, NC
After the cam is properly broken in, there shouldn't be a problem running any normal oil, even with the reduced ZDDP levels.
Stock 302's from 87-92 had flat tappet cams in roller ready blocks. I'm also not sure that all F4TE 351's had roller cams from the factory.
I expect that you can use a roller lifter block with flat tappets, but I don't know for sure. I've never known of anyone trying it.
FTE Legend
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
I'll also add that the 5.8 I have has a flat tappet cam that I installed. I followed the breakin procedures and the cam shows no signs of unusual wear after about 50k miles, and I have never used anything but regular old Quaker State in this motor.
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