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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Oil pump issues ?

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Old Sep 23, 2008 | 12:04 AM
  #1  
mitch429boss's Avatar
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Unhappy Oil pump issues ?

Hi , just bought a 1986 f150 with a rebuilt
motor , about 1100 miles on the motor . It had been sitting for about 2 years before i bought it , so anyways it fired right up and oil pressure was about on the "M" in the \Normal/ gauge . Since it had set for awhile i went ahead and gave it a tune up , with motorcraft plugs, duralast wires, K&N filter, clear
inline gas filter, valvoline synthetic blend oil with 1/4 quart of motor up and a Fram ToughGuard oil filter.
When i started the motor i noticed oil pressure was down to about the "R" , but i figured it was normal to drop some because the new oil was thicker . i heard a slight lifter tick when first started but after that it was gone . So i took it down the road for like 1/4 mile for a test run and when i went to turn around to come back to the house i noticed the oil pressure had fallen to right around the "N" and "O" range , so i drive it back and when i pull in the motor is shaky/running rough , i could feel it from inside the truck so i parked it .
About to order a new Melling HV oil pump and ARP hardened shaft . Sounds like what i need right ?
I had one person tell me the ToughGuard filter might have stopped up since the truck had sit and the filters are so effiecient .
 
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Old Sep 23, 2008 | 10:18 AM
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Did you prime the oil pump before you brought this truck out of retirement? If it sat for 2 years and you just changed the oil and all this other stuff, fired it up and took off you may have done some damage. After sitting that long there wouldn't be much oil left in anything. When I revive a sitting motor I usually put some MM oil in each cylinder and let it sit overnight, change the oil and then either prime the oil pump with a drill or at least just crank the motor in 30 second intervals for a little while to get the oil circulated in the block before I start it.

Generally your oil pressure will be a little higher after you change it since the new oil isn't as thin as the old oil.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2008 | 10:36 AM
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before you go and buy anything, invest in an aftermarket oil pressure gauge. You cant rely on the stock gauge at all. I got my truck for free because the original owner thought the engine had no oil pressure because the stock gauge read on N all the time. I put in an aftermarket gauge and i have perfect oil pressure. It is normal for oil pressure to drop once it warms up because the oil gets thinner as it warms up.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2008 | 11:09 AM
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What motor you talk about? 302 or 351 or 300?

Get that FRAM oil filter out it junk and put motorcraft oil filter.

And you need prime oil pump with shaft so you would save engine from seizure due no oil.


Or get valve cover off and see if oil is squirt out push rod?
 
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Old Sep 23, 2008 | 12:39 PM
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[quote=Milwaukee1979F150;6577546]
Get that FRAM oil filter out it junk and put motorcraft oil filter.
quote]

Seconded. Fram filters are known for causing low pressure startup and knocking. Stick on a motorcraft filter and grab an aftermarket mechanical gauge to be sure of your true pressure.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2008 | 02:21 PM
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No i didnt prime the pump , it had oil pressure when i first got it ,
with the old oil , once i changed it , it dropped some then the next day thats when this happened .
the motor is a 351W HO.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2008 | 06:11 PM
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I took the Fram Toughguard filter off today and changed it with a
Motorcraft one . drained the oil out and put it back in , fired it up
and oil pressure returned to normal almost , but when it started to
warm up , same thing all over again , im pretty sure the stock gauge
is working . It fell to "N" again with warm and the motor was alittle
shakey so i turned it off . looks like ill have to put in a oil pump
tomorrow .
 
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Old Sep 23, 2008 | 06:15 PM
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ill have some pics up sometime , im the third owner of the
truck . the first owner only used it to pull his horses , so it is flawless
inside and out besides one small spot of rust under each of the side back windows . that happened where he repainted it he didnt push
those windows in perfectly flush so water crept in and settled and the bottom of the body . other than that no dents/rust/cigarette burns or nothing
 
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Old Sep 23, 2008 | 06:21 PM
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the second guy that owned it was his brother , he drove it and for
some reason probably his fault the motor blew at 118k , he bought
and had installed a new longblock assembly from advanced auto
parts , not sure which old parts he left on the motor possibly the oil
pump lol :-( , i know he used the original valve covers ,
manifolds and starter , anyways after he painted it and did all this
work to it the original carbuerator developed a leak and he parked
it for 2 years before selling it to me . i bought a new 700cfm holley
and put on it and havent had any problems until this .
I think when anybody puts a new motor in a vehicle they might
as well go ahead and put a new oil and water pump when they put
the motor in
 
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Old Sep 23, 2008 | 07:38 PM
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Even if the stock gauge moves, it isnt accurate enough to tell any kind of pressure from it. Mine moved too and said it had no oil pressure once warmed up. The problem with the stock gauges is that they rely on electrical resistance, so as the wiring gets older, the resistance changes, thus causing the gauge to read differently.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2008 | 08:54 PM
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I see , ill get a gauge too , ill see if i can find one with oil pressure
and one with engine temperature
 
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Old Sep 23, 2008 | 09:19 PM
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I agree. I have seen a lot of time and money wasted on believing a stock oil pressure guage.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2008 | 04:49 AM
  #13  
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You could just buy another sending unit...theyre cheap.
My 300 hugs the N after warmed up, has done that for, oh I don't know, something like 25 years!
 
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Old Sep 24, 2008 | 05:44 PM
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I also say replace the sending unit, and/or get a mechanical gauge.

This is a very comon problem for these sending units.

When the engine is cold the sending unit works fine, but when it heats up, it reads low or not at all due to the resistance the heat causes. A new one will correct this fault. Still though the factory gauge isn't all that acurate even when working well. Still better than a light however.

Rule of thumb, If you notice a problem with your oil pressure with the factory gauge, always give it the benefit of the doubt, however always check the oil pressure with a mechanics, mechanical gauge before doing anything else.
 
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