Every now & then when I close the drivers door, or release the emergency brake, my truck will stumble or die. It typically starts right back up. I also have an occasional loping of the engine while idling in drive at a stop sign or traffic light. If I put it in neutral or park, the loping will go away. sometimes she will also cut out while driving; This typically will happens while driving at higher speeds when I release pressure off the pedal. If I'm constantly accelerating it doesn't happen. The CEL light will come on and the wait to start light comes on. If I apply pressure to the pedal I regain power and the lights (CEL & WTS) go out.

Yesterday I was attempting to back my trailer up into a driveway. I got out to adjust the passenger side mirror that never stays where I want it. When I got back in and closed the door, she died on me. I wasn't able to get it restarted and had to call my Dad to tow my truck back home with his Dodge. Then we had to go back and pick up the trailer. He had this @#%! eating grin on his face the whole time and was talking about how nicley his HEMI pulled the trailer!

Here's some info:

• CPS replaced June'08 @ dealer via recall notice.
• RPM gauge moves to about 300 while cranking.
• Fuel pressure @ shrader valve builds up to 55 psi while cranking.
• 12.5 volts on the batteries.
• Oil level is above the add line & has 5,345 miles on it.
• HPOP reservoir is about an inch form top.

Any Ideas?

 

Try hitting the steering wheel to see if it does the same thing. I'm thinking
you have a bad ignition switch. Something is loose in the dash, maybe the fuse panel???

TRS Transmission Range Sensor. It's on the driver side of the trans, it may be out of adjustment or going south.

Have it scanned for codes even if the light stays out, it may have stored them.

After you get this fixed, and you will!..... ask him how he likes getting 6-8 MPG when towing with that gasser LOL

 

The dying with the door closing and e-brake release sounds like it could be a loose connection on the PCM. The PCM is located behind the drivers side kick panel. The connector is through the firewall in the engine compartment. Just something I would check also.

 

Might also be a chip installed in the back of the PCM that is loose.

I agree with Jim in the TRS causing the loping

 

Agreed, but he did not mention a chip.

 

Yes. we posted at the same time so I wasn't disagreeing with you. It could certainly be either the connector or a chip. Even a chip he is not aware of.

 

So true, and I did not take it as disagreeing. The Lord knows that I do not know everything, and has blessed me by not letting me forget it, I still listen to advise, and I (along with alot of other people on here) have used alot of yours..

 

I had a guy that I know with a scanner stop by this evening. He was concerned that I didn't have a check engine light come on when the key was turned on?? After hooking up his scanner he said he had no communication with PCM. His scan tool kept rebooting when he cranked the engine. He thought this was due to low battery voltage and asked me to charge the batteries. He said he'd be back Wednesday to check it again. How can I tell if the PCM is functioning? We checked the connections by hand and everthing felt secure. Would removing it and doing a visual inspection be advised?

As for a chip, I couldn't tell you one way or another. I've only had the truck about two years and haven't done any modifications to it.

One more thing... My tin nut on the IPR was loose.

 

IPR nut loose? did you tighten it to see if it would start? LoL

to check if there is a chip in it pull off the driver side kick panel and pull the e-brake assymbly by taking off the 3 1/2" nuts. the pcm is visible now and if the port still has a rubber plug on it then there is no chip. the port will be facing you if you are looking at it from inside the cab. you will be able to see if there is a chip in it or not.

sounds like there also could be a short in the wiring on your driver side door switch that turns on the lights and such or around that area so when it vibrates from closing the door or releasing the e-brake it shorts out?

 

1. Is fuse 17 under the dash OK, if so,
2. KOEO: Measure voltage between powering side of fuse 17 located under the dash
and known good ground. If you don't get B+ then repair open in ignition feed wire (R/LG)
or the ignition switch is bad. Let me know I will post the schematic & wire location
3. Check the bulb and socket. Replace or repair the bulb/socket if needed.
4. Remove PCM connector, Check for loose, bent, corrosion ect. If OK
Measure resistance between bulb socket and Pin 2 on the PCM connector,
If the resistance is less than 5 ohms replace the PCM
If it's higher than 5 ohms repair (PK/LG) wire between the PCM and the bulb socket.

PCM connector pin #2:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...1&d=1193050952

Disconnect the GPR so the batts stay charged, keep the charger hooked up.

Did it start up OK now?

 

My 95 did the same thing PCM was bad.I now have a 95 PCM no problems.

 

Update.... I pulled the e-brake and checked the back of the PCM. I disconnected that Batteries before messing with the PCM. I found a TTS Power Systems chip. I wasn't really sure how to determine if the chip was secure. It looked like the chip had packing tape holding it to the PCM. When I pressed on it the whole PCM shifted a little. I pulled the the harness connector off and everything looked clean & dry. I figured since I had the batteries disconnected I'd take them up to Advance Auto to have them load tested. Sure enough, one was bad; $90 later she fired right up. I still don't know why the CEL wasn't comming when the key was turned. It works now, so maybe something was loose.

I looked at TTS's website and in their installation instructions it looked like there was some sort of bracket on the inside of truck that needed to be removed in order to pull the PCM. My truck doesn't have this bracket; the only thing holding the PCM in place is the three 10mm bolts on engine side of the firewall. Should this bracket be there and could the lack of it explain the e-brake & door closing causing the truck to die?


Here's what I learned.... disconnect the batts from each other so you get an accurate reading with the meter. I never considered that having them ran in tandem would give me a blended reading on the meter. Duh!

 

From the sounds of it you saw exactly what you should have as far as what holds the chip in. Tape is standard procedure as the only thing else is the tension of the chip cantacts ont he PCM contacts. Drive it and see what happens.

 

Did you ever figure this problem out? I was backing my trailer in and my truck just died when I shut the drivers side door. It fired back up but don't know what caused it ...I don't wanna get stuck with a 10k trailer in the driveway. It shut off just at the same time the door shut.

 

Start your truck, and let it idle and get under the hood and start at the PCM connector and cable bundle and do a "wiggle" the wire check....see it you can make it hiccup or kill it...could be a loose pin/connector or wire? can't hurt to try to narrow it down.