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Trouble with Hot Starts

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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 12:26 PM
  #1  
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Jolly Green
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Trouble with Hot Starts

Hey guys,

I found some info in other forums by doing a search, but still would like to see what you guys think.

I brought the '79 to work today and it started fine when cold this morning. When I went out for lunch it was hard to start. When I went to come back from lunch it was also hard to start and I had to put the pedal to the floor. It idled ruff for a second, puffed some blue smoke, then smoothed out and ran fine.

It did this a while back right before I tuned it up--but that was only about two months ago. This is the first it's given me any problem at all since then.

Could this be as simple as leaning out the automatic choke? It suddenly got a lot cooler around here this week--maybe in the 60's today. Would temp have anything to do with it--especially the choke?

Thanks!
 
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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 01:08 PM
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Could be the choke, its worth checking. Also check and clean your battery connections, and grounds.
Was it turning over fine, but didn't want to catch?
 
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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 01:19 PM
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fmc400
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I think your choke is actually not rich enough. If the truck sits for 4 hours in 60 degree weather, the choke should have some tension and be close to shut by then. Coming out of the grocery store or pulling out of the gas station is a hot start, but sitting in a parking lot for half a day in cool weather is more of a cold start.

The next time it gives you problems, pull the air cleaner off and look at what it's doing. Remember, on any carburetor engine, you have to pump the gas once to close the choke, so do that too. If the choke is not anywhere near closed, the choke needs to be more rich. If you do so and you still have problems, it's possible the choke has lost tension. This is a common problem with original choke springs after 30 years or so.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 01:19 PM
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Jolly Green
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Yea, it's turning over fine--just doesn't want to fire right away. Again, when it does it's blowing some blue smoke and smells rich.

How much would you turn the automatic choke?
 
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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 01:23 PM
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fmc400
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If you look on the rim of the choke cap, there is a small notch. On the radius of the choke housing which the choke is held against, there are 7 raised notches. Going from the back of the truck toward the front of the truck, the notches are referred to as 3 Rich, 2 Rich, 1 Rich, Index, 1 Lean, 2 Lean, 3 Lean. If you look on your emissions sticker, it will tell you which raised notch to align the other notch to. If your emissions sticker is gone, Index or 1 Rich is a good ballpark.

It's not too uncommon to have to move forward a notch in the lean direction during the summers, and to move backward a notch in the rich direction during the winters. It also depends on where you live (I assume it's colder up in PA than it is down here in TX). If you refer to my other post - you need to be going in the rich direction for the reasons I described.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by fmc400
I think your choke is actually not rich enough. If the truck sits for 4 hours in 60 degree weather, the choke should have some tension and be close to shut by then. Coming out of the grocery store or pulling out of the gas station is a hot start, but sitting in a parking lot for half a day in cool weather is more of a cold start.

The next time it gives you problems, pull the air cleaner off and look at what it's doing. Remember, on any carburetor engine, you have to pump the gas once to close the choke, so do that too. If the choke is not anywhere near closed, the choke needs to be more rich. If you do so and you still have problems, it's possible the choke has lost tension. This is a common problem with original choke springs after 30 years or so.

It did it when leaving for lunch after, like you said, sitting about four hours. Then did the same thing after only sitting a few minutes on my way back. Anything to that?

Thanks for the feedback!
 
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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 01:34 PM
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fmc400
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Very sorry, I must have missed the part about it doing it after short sits too. In that case, I would pull off the air cleaner and look at the throat of the carb the next time it is giving you trouble. Look at the position of the choke plate, feel its tension by pushing on it, and try to see if you notice any obvious gas smells that don't belong. There have been issues with fuel draining out of the fuel bowl past the power valve and flooding the engine while it sits, but they are rare cases.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by fmc400
Very sorry, I must have missed the part about it doing it after short sits too. In that case, I would pull off the air cleaner and look at the throat of the carb the next time it is giving you trouble. Look at the position of the choke plate, feel its tension by pushing on it, and try to see if you notice any obvious gas smells that don't belong. There have been issues with fuel draining out of the fuel bowl past the power valve and flooding the engine while it sits, but they are rare cases.
fmc,

For a while I think you and I were posting at the same time and just missing each other's posts!

Yea, there was a bit of a gas smell last time I was in it. That and the blue smoke is what led me think it's running rich.

Thanks for all of your replies and help.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 06:04 PM
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That's exactly what I do too. On a cold start, you pump the pedal once. The reason for this is the throttle pins the choke plate open through the fast idle linkage. Opening the throttle releases the linkage enough to let the choke snap shut.

To start warm, I usually have the pedal maybe halfway down while cranking, just enough to let some more air\fuel in. That makes my motor start instantly. Anything more than pumping the gas once will usually flood it.

I let a buddy borrow my old LTD and he couldn't get it started because he didn't know you have to pump the gas once to start it cold.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 07:45 PM
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Jolly, this problem you're having is like the exact opposite of what's going on to me. the first start of the day is the hardest....3 or 4 cranks to get it started while pumping it (easier if pumped before turning the key). the next time during the day it starts right up.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr. Dirt
Jolly, this problem you're having is like the exact opposite of what's going on to me. the first start of the day is the hardest....3 or 4 cranks to get it started while pumping it (easier if pumped before turning the key). the next time during the day it starts right up.
You only pump once, then turn the key. You don't pump the pedal to "fill up" anything with gas. That's a common misconception. Pumping the pedal is done once and it is simply to release the choke back to the closed position. When you shut the truck off, the choke is open, and the throttle is at curb idle. When the choke tries to close, the fast idle linkage pins the butterfly stuck open. Pumping the gas once lets go of the fast idle linkage and lets the choke plate snap shut.

If you pump the gas once and turn the key and the truck does not start, you have a problem with your choke and\or fast idle linkage. Any pumping after the first time is just going to flood the engine.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 10:51 PM
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When you press the pedal down, the accelerator pump shoots 2 streams of gas onto the venturis, whichs makes them wet and can drip some down onto the throttle plates. A little extra fuel helps it in really cold temps. It's the same idea behind shooting it with starting fluid (just not as flammable). My dad has always done the same thing too. A "shot" of fuel isn't really necessary for normal temperatures; the first pedal pump on a cold start is really to mechanically snap the choke shut. A second push sometimes helps richen it even more for really cold temperatures.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2008 | 01:35 AM
  #13  
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op:

i've had my timing too advanced and had the same problem your describing, try backing your timing off a couple degrees and see if that helps.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2008 | 08:00 AM
  #14  
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Well, the rest of the day yesterday (after I posted) everything worked fine. A guy at work was looking at my truck yesterday before I left for lunch, when I thought I had the problem--and he was sitting behind the wheel a minute before I jumped in to leave. I wonder if he hit the gas and flooded it? I didn't think about that before.

Ben, As far as starting procedure--cold starts I actually hit the gas twice. I know one pump sets the fast idle, but she always fires right up with two. My dad always gave it two pumps on cold starts too.

After she gets warm for the first time, I never have to hit the gas at all to start it for the rest of the day. Really--it fires right up by just turning the key--foot OFF the gas on warm starts. Yesterday I had to put it down to the floor like it was flooded though--on about three starts. On the trip home, and on a short trip in the evening though, it was business as usual.

I'm going to give it another day of running her before I start to adjust or mess with anything to see what it's doing. I didn't drive that truck to work today though. Should have. I'll take her out tonight.

Thanks for all the input. You guys rock!
 
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Old Sep 19, 2008 | 09:43 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by UTfball68
Well to be honest...and this may be a stupid suggestion, considering your other way always worked, but I would try the proper technique that myself and fmc stated before you start messing with a relatively good carb.
An any carb motor I've ever had I usually haven't had to pump/hold the skinny pedal on a hot start. Since mine have always fired without it, I've always thought doing anything else would flood it.

I certainly trust what you guys have to say though, so I'll see how she's doing and try something different if it's still giving me fits. I totally agree, I don't want to mess with the carb if I don't have to!
 
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