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Old Sep 13, 2008 | 05:20 PM
  #16  
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From: Ashland City, TN
Originally Posted by kawa
Sorry Talyn:
Adding acid is a NO NO. Just add distilled water.
Rog
Now now.
Don't be an ***.

I said like you are "supposto"

My battery takes acid, not distilled water.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2008 | 05:24 PM
  #17  
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From: Ashland City, TN
Mule for the win!

Good one Rodney.
I love it when guys put AC Spark plugs in a ford as well. It makes me chuckle inside.

I dont think the caps could be.... sealed on, i guess is the way i could say it.
But any battery has a chance to burn off fluid, or boil over, which is the point of a vent.
So, I'm sure they will come off. Just might be really tough. I know mine do not come off very easily, but i boil over quite often for some reason. My truck has some wierd electrical ghosts, (and i'm using a marine deep cycle battery... ******* me hahah)
but it will boil out some fluid occasionally. So I check mine once a month.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2008 | 05:43 PM
  #18  
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OK, Listen up. IDMooseman was 100% right when he said "Maintenance Free" usually means "sealed" as well............I checked the caps are SEALED ON. Thanks ID. And as far as AC delco in a Ford thing goes the truck came that way when I got it and really, we are talking about frigging batteries. Do you really think it makes that much of a diff if any at all?

Now back to the last question I asked in a attempt to get this situation resolved. Will a 15 mA draw on the batteries with everything off make a diff?
 
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Old Sep 13, 2008 | 07:35 PM
  #19  
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From: Ft Scott
Originally Posted by scatgo
OK, Listen up. IDMooseman was 100% right when he said "Maintenance Free" usually means "sealed" as well............I checked the caps are SEALED ON. Thanks ID.

Well I've got two diesels sitting in the driveway with maintenance free batteries in both and I've had the caps off all four so I guess "usually" was the key word.

And as far as AC delco in a Ford thing goes the truck came that way when I got it and really, we are talking about frigging batteries. Do you really think it makes that much of a diff if any at all?

Hell no. Actually the AC Delco's in your truck are made by Johnson Controls and they just happen to be the same company that makes the Auto Zone Duralasts in my Ford and the Walmart Everstarts in my Dodge. And they also make the Motorcrafts.

Now back to the last question I asked in a attempt to get this situation resolved. Will a 15 mA draw on the batteries with everything off make a diff?

15ma is way less than the 50ma that Jim mentioned in post #5.
Have you checked the alternator yet?
 
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Old Sep 13, 2008 | 07:46 PM
  #20  
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Not yet. Got the truck on the charger still. I am going to let it go till morning. By then I should have a good charge on it. Once I get it up and running ill look into the alternator.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2008 | 07:55 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Talyn
Now now.
Don't be an ***.

I said like you are "supposto"

My battery takes acid, not distilled water.
ACTUALLY......The water boils out of the batteries but the acid doesn't so if your fluid is low then all you need to do is add water.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2008 | 08:08 PM
  #22  
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From: Rogue River, OR
Originally Posted by Talyn
Now now.
Don't be an ***.

I said like you are "supposto"

My battery takes acid, not distilled water.
OK,
I can't find that word in the dickshunary, but goin' way back on my auto school housin' the acid that is put into a battery on it's initial fill is a mixture of sulfuric acid and H2o.

The water will evaporate over time do to overcharging, heat or just lack of service but the acid does not, that is why all battery manufactures recommend adding distilled water only. Most tap water contain hard minerals which accumulate within and shorten the life of the battery.
That is why some of us install coolant filters on our OBS's to capture the mineral deposits etc.

If I am wrong I will gladly accept the "***" title & be known as:
"*** kawa".


Rog
 
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Old Sep 13, 2008 | 10:22 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by kawa
OK,
I can't find that word in the dickshunary, but goin' way back on my auto school housin' the acid that is put into a battery on it's initial fill is a mixture of sulfuric acid and H2o.

The water will evaporate over time do to overcharging, heat or just lack of service but the acid does not, that is why all battery manufactures recommend adding distilled water only. Most tap water contain hard minerals which accumulate within and shorten the life of the battery.
That is why some of us install coolant filters on our OBS's to capture the mineral deposits etc.

If I am wrong I will gladly accept the "***" title & be known as:
"*** kawa".


Rog
Your a funny guy Kawa. But I suphose you know that.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 04:22 AM
  #24  
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From: MICHIGAN
Originally Posted by scatgo
Jut removed both cables to test for current draw both were pretty clean but scrubbed them all anyway. Unfortunately the Radio Crap meter I have only reads mA which is milliamp which = .001 of a amp. When I hook up the meter to the + of the batt a + cable it will spike to the max for a second then drop down to 15. Since I suck at math I am guessing this is .015 mA and should be way below .05. Any one know if this is right?
Some digital readout VOM's are confusing and difficult to read.
The spike you saw is normal. I should of warned you about that.
Could of popped the fuse in the VOM.

If you have a draw of .15 milliamp that is .00015 amp.
That doesn't seem right. Normal amp draws are way more than that.

Maybe it's .15 amp or 150 milliamp which is 3 times more than .05 amp I stated above.
BTW: 50 milliamp = .05 amp

Use a 12v test light in place of the VOM, If your amp draw is .00015 amp then a test light will not glow bright enough for you to see. It's just barely visible @ .05 amp

If the test light glows bright enough to see then start pulling & replacing fuses....when the test light goes out you found the circuit to start on.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 09:39 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Cuda_jim
Some digital readout VOM's are confusing and difficult to read.
The spike you saw is normal. I should of warned you about that.
Could of popped the fuse in the VOM.

If you have a draw of .15 milliamp that is .00015 amp.
That doesn't seem right. Normal amp draws are way more than that.

Maybe it's .15 amp or 150 milliamp which is 3 times more than .05 amp I stated above.
BTW: 50 milliamp = .05 amp

Use a 12v test light in place of the VOM, If your amp draw is .00015 amp then a test light will not glow bright enough for you to see. It's just barely visible @ .05 amp

If the test light glows bright enough to see then start pulling & replacing fuses....when the test light goes out you found the circuit to start on.
The VOM I used yesterday was analog. I found my digital this morning and it reads 15.93 mA. I have a craftsman 12v test light. The bulb in it looks like a old style glass fuse. When I hook it up it lights up as bright as it dose when I connect it straight to the battery but pulses from bright to dim when set up + batt + cable. I pulled a regular bulb out of the dome light in the truck and it will not light at all when set up +batt + cable.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 10:24 AM
  #26  
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From: Ashland City, TN
Originally Posted by tjbeggs
ACTUALLY......The water boils out of the batteries but the acid doesn't so if your fluid is low then all you need to do is add water.
Originally Posted by kawa
OK,
I can't find that word in the dickshunary, but goin' way back on my auto school housin' the acid that is put into a battery on it's initial fill is a mixture of sulfuric acid and H2o.

The water will evaporate over time do to overcharging, heat or just lack of service but the acid does not, that is why all battery manufactures recommend adding distilled water only. Most tap water contain hard minerals which accumulate within and shorten the life of the battery.

Well, you know guys. I totally believe you and already know this information.
But my battery says to use acid not distilled water.
That is what I was referring too.
I probably should have elaborately explained the situation like I do everything else I talk about, because people apparently cannot compensate when I don't. :P

HAHAHAHA
 
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 01:53 PM
  #27  
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From: MICHIGAN
Originally Posted by scatgo
The VOM I used yesterday was analog. I found my digital this morning and it reads 15.93 mA. I have a craftsman 12v test light. The bulb in it looks like a old style glass fuse. When I hook it up it lights up as bright as it dose when I connect it straight to the battery but pulses from bright to dim when set up + batt + cable. I pulled a regular bulb out of the dome light in the truck and it will not light at all when set up +batt + cable.
Well...At least You're making progress
I think you need to go back and look at your stereo install....but first
I vaguely remember a pulsing draw like you're having....It's was a delay or something....crap, I gotta find it.

Put the dome light back in and wait around 5 minutes then check the amp draw.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 02:04 PM
  #28  
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Did you tap into number 8 fuse under the dash for the new stereo?
 
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 02:14 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Cuda_jim
Did you tap into number 8 fuse under the dash for the new stereo?

No. The stereo uses the factory harness. From what I recall the back up camera is the only thing that I had to tap into other wires. And those wires went to the back up light for power.

Check the amp draw with the digital meter?
 
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 02:23 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by scatgo
No. The stereo uses the factory harness. From what I recall the back up camera is the only thing that I had to tap into other wires. And those wires went to the back up light for power.

Check the amp draw with the digital meter?
Either VOM will work.

Be sure to close all the doors and remove the under hood bulb.
Did you have the door closed when you did the first test?
 
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