I am beginning work on a 96 F-150 with 8foot bed and dual tanks. I would like to know what brands of adhesives have members had sucess with. Lord, 3M etc. I would like to replace the panels on this bed with the glue method.

I will also be working on a 93 EXT cab with bad cab corners, the big ones, can you use glue for these?

 

I am using SEM on mine, right now. I'm doing the wheel arches and any other piece that has to be done. I also use the counter sunk pop rivets. Cab corners can be glued, but the rocker panels aren't supposed to be.

 

I've had good success with 3M's panel adhesive, so far I've used it on my cab corners, outter lower door patch panels, and the back lower rear section of the cab. Most of the time I end up doing both MIG welding and adhesive when doing my patch work. The adhesive should work great for the wheel arches. I've never used the counter sunk rivets, but they sound like a good way to go. I've just used plain rivets and when the adhesive is dry I just grind the heads off, before applying body filler.

Buzzman, where do you get these count-sunk rivets?

 

I got the first batch from Eastwood with the kit they sell. I don't know if you are familiar with it, but it comes with the adhesive, flanging pliers, cleco fasteners, dimpler, rivets, etc. . But, when I ran short on the rivets, I opted for a better deal on ebay. I couldn't see paying $15 per box when I could get them for $4 delivered. I also had to grind the dimpling pliers so they would do what I wanted them to do and did not use the flanging pliers. I just make up a backing strip instead, using the the rivets and adhesive. The flanging distorts the surface too much when it is not flat.

 

i have also used panel adhesive, i use Duramix. Although you'll be lucky to find it 3M bought them out. Anyway i've replaced both rear wheel arches and a floor board using the rivet/adhesive method. Solid as a rock and no heat.

Cujo, if you mig after adhering the panels doesn't that burn off the adhesive and possibly leave unprotected welds behind? Just wondering because i haven't welded over any of my adhered panels.

 

Duke78, When I said I use a combination of welding and adhesive for some of my patch panels, I meant that in some areas I weld the patch and other areas I use adhesive. For example, when attaching my lower outside door patch panels I flanged the original metal pretty much along its entire length, but when I got to the outter edges I had to stop flanging due to the flanging tool was up against the inside door panels. This left about 1" on both sides that was not glued, so I filled in these small areas with the welder. Once everything is cooled I use a brush-on seam sealer on the back side of all my new seams and all along the inside bottom edge of the door.

 

SEM makes a panel adhesive (#39537) that welding is recommended. I guess anything is possible these days with the technology available and everyone's personel preferences or what we have on hand. I am kicking myself for not buying a mig welder when I started fooling around with the project. Instead I bought one of those stitch welders that attach to my stick welder and fooled around with that thing for while. And now am relying on the adhesives to finish this project. I could have saved myself some time and money with the mig and been giving advice on mig welding and welders...lol.

 

Buzzman,

I got the Eastwood kit also but haven't used it yet. What did you have to do to the dimpling pliers? Just curious.

Jeff in northern Wisconsin

 

I ground a bevel on the edge that is forced in to leave the impression.
If I remember, I will try to take a pic of it when I get into the garage later. I have been using 18 ga. to use as a back up and found it hard to leave a deep enough impression with the way the pliers are made.