360 or 390?
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360 or 390?
Ok, I did the measuring of the stroke by removing the spark plug and using a dowel, I measured a 3 3/4. Well, I finally got around to overhauling it and now, with the heads removed I measured the travel of the piston inside the cylinder and came up with 3 1/2. It's 3 3/4 still if you measure from the center of the piston, but only 3 1/2 if you measure on the outside of the piston.
I'm confused. Could someone tell me how to make the determination with it all apart? Is there a number on the crank or rods that might be able to point me in the right direction? Thanks for the help in advance!
I'm confused. Could someone tell me how to make the determination with it all apart? Is there a number on the crank or rods that might be able to point me in the right direction? Thanks for the help in advance!
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From: Mddl A MexCans
rotate the crank to TDC #1 piston at the top. Then drop a ruler in #4 and measure the distance to deck square along the bore. Then measure the distance from piston #1 to deck(deck height) and deduct it from the #4 measurement.
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I knew one of you FE masters would step in and square a padiwan away!
Well, 3 5/8 - 1/8 = 360.....crap!
Oh well, I guess the search is on for some parts.
Thanks redmanbob, mystery solved and you're the man!
Well, 3 5/8 - 1/8 = 360.....crap!
Oh well, I guess the search is on for some parts.
Thanks redmanbob, mystery solved and you're the man!
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From what I've heard and read, these are pretty decent and reliable engines heh? It seemed pretty peppy when I first bought it, it just ran a little rough. I found out why today. The index dots on the timing gears were 4 teeth off. If it runs like it did with that.....I believe we have a winner. Just my 2 cents.
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From: Mddl A MexCans
Nothing wrong with a 360 IMO I have a 352 in my 66 now and it's a hell of a stout motor IMO. I am presently building a 390 to replace it but in truth there is no need. The 360 is a work truck motor. Plenty of them out there and they get the job done just fine. Changing over to a 390 isnt a horribly expensive upgrade if your already rebuilding though. Toss a coin up and go with your gut. Your the one who will be using for what you use it for.
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Spoken like a wise man. The problem is my gut says 390, but my wallet says 360. I'm just going to keep an eye out and hope that one shows up in the classifieds on the cheap.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
tatonka04, Other than having to buy the crank and rods, the difference in the rebuild parts should be about the same. IMHO
Buying a machined crank would save you from having to pay for that service.
John
Buying a machined crank would save you from having to pay for that service.
John
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Yeah, I was thinking along the same lines. I spent a few hours last night looking for a budget 390 crank or an engine to scavenge or use. I cross referenced some of my engines numbers and it appears that I may be blessed with a decent engine. I don't know what they all mean but here is what I've found so far:
Block is a reverse image 105 with a D3TE in the left side of oil galley area and 4L22.
Heads are D2TEAA, Rt side has 4L14 and the Lt side has 4L27.
I'm guessing that the 4L and the numbers are dates? Is there anybody that might be able to shed some light on as to what they mean?
If so, I might even find out if the engine is original or not, that'd be cool. The engine code is H, for a 360, that part I do know. All in all though, it has been fun so far. She should be an animal when she's done.
Block is a reverse image 105 with a D3TE in the left side of oil galley area and 4L22.
Heads are D2TEAA, Rt side has 4L14 and the Lt side has 4L27.
I'm guessing that the 4L and the numbers are dates? Is there anybody that might be able to shed some light on as to what they mean?
If so, I might even find out if the engine is original or not, that'd be cool. The engine code is H, for a 360, that part I do know. All in all though, it has been fun so far. She should be an animal when she's done.
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