I have some questions for those of you out there that have had hands on experience with this.

My association with the FTE forums began with the acquisition of a '53 F-100. Since that time I have been acquiring parts. One acquisition included a vey pristine frame with all the bolt-on stuff removed. It occurred to me that this would be a very good standard for generating a fabrication jig for building custom frames with IFS & IRS. I run a small fab shop business and I have the facilities and equipment to be able to produce these chassis in various forms to acommodate the individual requirements of different engine, tranny and suspension requirements.

What I have in mind is building with box and tube and adding various types of IFS and IRS. I have seen some pretty impressive work done with circa '90s vintage T-bird, Cougar and Lincoln Mark IFS and IRS components. I think this would be a rerasonable alternative to the kits offered by vendors. I have seen those chassis sold for 8K in bare metal. I think I could cut the cost to half that by going this route.

Since I have the '53 stuff to work from, I was wondering just how far up the line that this basic chassis will work for other year models. I am more interested in knowing what will actually fit as opposed to matching part numbers. For that I need to hear from those of you that have actually done this stuff. All too mant times I have found that what was supposed to work doesn't for come obscure reason or another.

I am thinking that this basic design will work for '53, '54, and '55, but I'm not sure about "56.

Any input and suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

Later Folks...

 

I forgot to ask, has anyone done the T-bird IFS & IRS together?

Later...

 

I think the frames are the same from 53-56. I was told the rear springs (stock ones) on the 55 and 56 frames were longer, so the mounts were in a different location.

Other than that...I was told I could swap any frame under mine. Not that I need to now since mine will remain stock.

 

So I've heard. But so long as the wheel base is the same it probably won't be a problem.

Later Man...

 

Hi Dave,
How's it going also keep in mind to move the front suspension centerline forward 1 1/2" to center the front wheels in the wheel wells. The 53-56 frames are the same except for the rear springs like Brian B mentioned above 53-54 48" & 55-56 52" or vice versa?

 

Good point Rick. Now that you mention it, they do appear to be back a bit from center as I recall. I assume that is what you are talking about. That is one of the good things about a complete fabrication, I can locate stuff where ever I want it.

Later Man...

 

Dave, just remember, rubber down, motor in front, cab and bed above...then you won't have any problems!

Building a frame is cool beanz, but just make sure your "platform" that you build on/over is flat, square, and measure, measure, MEASURE!! I've seen a bit of your website, and have no doubts you are meticulous, but I tend to be, too, and sure learned a lot when I put my first frame together...whew!! Weld, cut, weld, cut, weld, cut - cuss, cuss, CUSS!!

But, a real pleasure when you are done - just plan your stuff carefully - too danged much work, to change horses mid-stream...

Just my $.02 worth...

 

Hi Roger,
Actually, I think you have de-valued yourself there. I think your input, as well as many others here is worth a lot more than two cents. As a matter of fact, I think it's worth the full three year membership and then some.

In reponse to your point about being square and level, I intend to build a jig that I can keep everything level and square in while it is being welded together. I have had problems with the welding operation pulling stuff out of square and end up using a porta-power the straighten things up. That's not fun and it leaves marks. As I mentioned earlier, I would like to build a few of these things to sell and I wanted to be sure I could at least build them to the point where they coud have extra mounting points and cross members added to accomodate any kind of engine and tranny as well as provisions for tilting front ends. I also need to practice a bit with my new welding equipment to be in top form before making stuff I want to sell. I have lived with my stick welder for over 40 years and the new stuff is a lot more technical.

Later Man...

 

Yeah, but SOOOO much nicer, over all!! A mediocre welder, is now good, and a good welder can be great!

R

 

So true... But, my stick welding skill so exceeds my TIG and to some degree my MIG skills at this point. It's really just a matter of getting a feelings for the right settings on the new machines. It's all me, not the equipment. For my money I think I bought the best stuff so I have no excuse. I need to set aside a day to just practice on each machine. My problem is I keep taking in little paying jobs and they get big after I take them. I get pId for the extra work so that isn't a problem. It's just a time thing.

Later Man...