yeh, but I wasn't going for the redo leadership position!..

Sam

 

the engine shop will be done with the repairs this week!..

new pistons, rockers, pushrods and intake valves..

they said if we had installed (last year) the 2.19 valves we ordered, instead of the 2.25 valves they received all would have been ok.. but I doubt that given the depth of the impact area..

regardless, I convinced them to replace the pistons rather than chance it and with some already clearanced for 2.25 valves (so they wouldn't hand machine them) and I would split the difference with them.



Procomp was nice enough to send me another set of roller rockers at cost.

they were able to install a new seat in the head shown above to repair the impact damage, altho there is a small crease in the intake runner that would not work for a race engine.

Sam

 

Sam,

Wow, that is a major tragedy!! Its lucky that it happened right away and at low rpm, Imagine how much damage would have been down at rpm.

Sorry for the setback.
Bobby

(Man, that sure is a purty truck)

 

yeh, very lucky it was at start time, not even run time. If this had happened at 4,000 rpm! wow..

Sam

 

Sam

since you've been there, done that (sorry) and I'm building (eventually) the same engine.... can you give me a list of brand/part numbers you used

I'm headed for around 9:1 c.r. with dished pistons and the large valves...got the pistons but haven't even started on head parts.... judging from your experience... I'm glad you're working faster than me... (sorry again)

later
John

 

and I have to say, that all this really is probably insignificant in the grand scheme of things for the use I will apply it for (cruising and some random light drag racing).
I didn't do any extensive exhaust porting, cause I'm not going for 800hp. I would still use the hi compression heads tho..

I'm using Keith Black pistons, KB:138
Procomp Roller Rockers 2038 PROCOMP ELECTRONICS, they have just recently switched web site formats, and search and navigation aren't working well (10/1/08).. I got the original set off of EBAY.

this required screw in stud mount heads. I swapped out a set of C8VE for a set of C9VE's with 3/8 guideplates already installed. Don't need much more than 5/16 hardened pushrods tho. (pushrods have to match the guideplates)

the 2.25 valves , I don't know where the machine shop got them from, but an EBAY item for reference, 2.25/1.76

I had a Comp Cams 280H cam already, and had put in a double roller timing chain already.

I also used a Procomp electronic small top distro, 8024, off EBAY as well.
Mine is the billet square body, looks like the 8004, but doesn't require a control box.. no vacuum canister.

I had an HEI distro installed for a while, but it didn't fit with my polished Weiand manifold I still have it sitting in the drawer. but these have gotten cheap since I bought mine (which was cheap at the time <$100)

They also said this time, they are going to use slightly shorter pushrods -.005 I think. I don't know where they were getting those..

So, my compression SHOULD be about 9.9 (22cc dish, 76cc chamber) (down from 10.4 stock), small chamber, with quench.
stock crank, and rods. C8,C9, and D0 are all technically the same, except C9/D0 usually have screw in studs, vs the pedestal mount rockers which are more expensive, but don't require head work if you don't have studs already.
(I was going to buy a pair of D0VE empty heads with screw in studs last week in Dallas for $75 each, but didn't need them as the machine shop was able to repair the one head, and save the paint).

Last year I supplied the roller rockers,and C9VE stud mount heads, and they did the rest..(well, I had to supply another shortblock too, as the original was .60 over already and had to be bored again).. $1375 out the door incluing tax and boring out the heads for the bigger valves, bored .030 over. Cost me $550 to rebuild the C6 tranny during the same time.

sam

 

Sam, have you given any thought to having your engine dyno'd? After eating my cam and bending pushrods on my "first" rebuild, I had it redone at another shop (no warranty because it was more than a year when I fired it). I paid to have it dyno'd so they could break it in and test everything before it went back into the truck.

Two years now with no problems. Just a thought, and I feel your pain.

 

I had not thought of that.. will look around to see what options exist around here. Mine was a year since I picked it up to breakdown.

sam

 

It wasn't cheap! offhand I think it was somewhere around a $900. but I was able to attend the session, it lasted about 3 to 4 hours and it was very exciting to see the numbers it was putting out and to hear it run.

The builder was there the whole time and fine tuned everything for best performance.

 

Sam,

I'm surprised that when you put 'different' pieces together that no one at the shop thought to check valve clearance... I know you can calculate it with a pencil... but assembling (even with one piston and valves and you put a little modeling clay on the piston top... roll the engine over by hand and check the indentation on the clay... at the very least they should have felt the valve contact the piston ??? or am I just full of it ??? I've built two engines in my entire life... but everything I've read says 'if you're using other than stock parts.... check your clearances.. I'm sure you trusted the shop to build you a good engine... but something or somebody was sure wrong there wasn't it ???

john

 

yeh, if you read back at the beginning, there was a 'problem' in that they BENT a hardened 5/16 pushrod on the test stand (they test stand turn all the engines at 2500 rpm).

they 'thought' at the time that this was because of the 3/8 guide plates and 5/16 pushrods allowing the rocker to turn and bind the pushrod. They didn't even THINK about the collision problem until I brought them the broken head AND when they picked it up from where I put it, they SAW a mark on each remaining intake valve. Then they ASKED ME if there were marks on the pistons themselves... thats when the lights came on..

now, weekend before last I was going to Dallas, and mentioned I would pick up those D0VE heads if we needed them, and the mgr asked, 'Are you going to the drag races there this weekend, most of our customers are going'..
uh, you build engines to handle this, but didn't even THINK to do it on mine?! wow..

there are 3 engine shops in Austin area. All have somebody I know that had some screw up or another. so no-one has a perfect rating. all are approx the same cost for the same work.. I used the one in my area of travel.

I INTENTIONALLY had them assemble the engine from the parts to INSURE that I didn't screw it up..(and to get the gaurantee I am using now!) and then they still did.. but, they ARE honoring their work.. (no compensatory expenses however, engine removal, teardown, build up and install).. they only take the bare longblock.

sam

 

Sam,
If you want it to put it on a dyno and have it checked out by someone who knows what they are doing with Ford engines, call Ted Eaton in Waco. He just installed a brand new dyno. Eaton Balancing | www.eatonbalancing.com
Tell him Don Chandler sent you.

 

Good Luck with the rebuild buddy...can't wait to see that truck fire up!

Just part of "it" I guess...

 

Well it still could be worse. It broke in the driveway not going up some hill towing a horse trailer just when you downshifted and hit some higher revs...... Oh wait that was me. No great loss though it was a 454. Yah destroyed that one. Rich

 

ouch.. indeed I am lucky..

Sam