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Oh, that "crown" bushing that goes in the pivot for the master cylinder? Yeah, went through three of them before I had it set up so it wouldn't destroy the bushing in about 10 pedal strokes. I had to grease the joint (I think it's dry from the factory) and also drill the assembly to install a cotterpin to keep the master cylinder arm from falling off. My only other observation is that the pedal is harder to push in than the pedal on the Mack model U dump truck I used to drive.
You definitely have worn a groove in the actuating arm that causes the plastic 'finger' retainer/bushing to keep breaking.
This acetal bushing is self lubricating, grease only causes grit to act as grinding paste.
I just replaced mine with a 3/8" id-1/2" od X 3/4" 'tophat' style bronze oilite bushing from the hardware store because it was starting to "act funny" again. (failure to return smoothly)
I had JB Welded a spent pistol casing onto the pivot years ago in a pinch, and never changed it....
What a world of difference in ease and action.
For $3 and a half hour of your time you might be pleasantly surprised, I know I was.
Re: Adjustment,
I'm still on the original M/C, but uprated to an adjustable pushrod back in the mid ninety's when I reinforced the firewall.
I understand that most aftermarket M/C's come with these now.
the hyd setup is best with external slave. if you want a mechanical set up, you could also use a cable that could be adjusted to make the clutch release off the floor. but you can also get that adjustment with the hyd setup by either cutting the rod that goes into the firewall. just my 2 cents.
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