I first had you guys help me with a pump problem which I replaced. This has opened a pandora's box of problems for me. My tranny quit shifting right,was told the timing was off in injector, then was told fipl switch was bad, sent truck back to punp buillder to re-time the pump and set the new fipl. The rebuilder said I installed the pump wrong, and he had a hard time timing it. Seems to me lining up a pin to go into the gear hole was all I had to do. Since then Tranny started shifting hard then started boiling fluid out the od light started flashing,but since then has quit working altogether even after replacing the light,but od switch still works. Also tranny shift cable busted at the mounting point on the tranny, was on the road and I wired tied it back on and drove home from Michigan ok. But The problems kept coming back hard shifts then no OD. Removed tarnjy and had it rebuilt. Put it back in and no reverse or hard shifts in forward gears. Took tranny back out sent back to rebuilder and he replaced the solenoid pack. Put tranny back in drove around town a couple times no problem. Today went on a drive on the highway and tranny worked fine, until I stopped then it held first for a long time then shifted to 2nd then straight to 4th. Stopped disconnected batteries and waited then hooked back up it shifted fine got back out on highway,and tranny started hard shifting again and skipping 3rd gear, then stated slipping in od. Stopped agai dis/batteries one more time and drove it home. still hard shifting all the way. I ran codes and all I got was a 99. Before I got a 23 56 67 90 91 92 93 94. I still need to purchase a new shifter cable but not sure that is the problem. I tend to think another bad sloenoid pak or tipl is still out of range. Anyone have any helpful solutions??? I love this truck, hate to get rid of it. had to buy a chevy to drive while I fixed this one.

 

Reset the FIPL.......

To set to specs:
With a warm engine and the idle speed set to your engine specs probably 650 in drive (curb idle) shut off the engine.

Now with "Key On Engine Off". First connect the negative lead of a volt meter to the negative battery post, then place a paperclip straightened to slide up the side of the center wire for a good contact, touch the positive lead to the paperclip. Electrical connector must be connected to the FIPL.

If your FIPL requires resetting loosen the small torx screws and attempt to attain the correct setting. You can loosen the large bolts on the bracket if necessary but try to retain the centering on the FIPL/blade.

Your trying to get closed throttle voltage: 1.1 V, wide open throttle voltage: minimum of 3.8 V but not more than 4.3 V.

If you can attain those #s then tighten the screws/bolts and ensure the voltage is at the correct setting after tightening. You can also do a slow sweep of the fuel lever from idle to WOT to see if there are any blanc (dead) spots, much easier with a really $$$ meter with capture mode. If you still find there are hard shifts or very soft slippery shifts you can adjust to suit your driving but be warned slippery shifts will burn the trans up.

I would replace the trans shift cable ASAP and ensure the MLPS is aligned correctly.

Also ensure the connection on the rt side of the trans is in vgood condition..........

Check all the trans electrical connections especially the one on the right side with the tin cover, remove the tin heat shield, remove the solenoid connector by pushing on the center tab and pulling up on the wire harness. To install push down until a click is heard. Always reinstall the tin heat shield.

Your looking for corroded, bent or missing pins and water etc.......