OK as far as the PCM Computer goes just unplug it. Replace the fuse and if the fuse still opens when you turn on the key I would say you have a red wire shorted to ground someplace and the computer is not the problem.

 

Pull the plug from the firewall with the bolt thru it?

 

Yes that will take the PCM Computer out of the question.
If it blows when you turn on the key you will know the computer may be OK and you have problems elsewhere.

If the fuse does not blow when you turn on the key then the PCM computer would be bad.


/

 

TFI, distributor, ECM unplugged still poped fuse.. ????

 

The coil and radio suppression capacitor is also supplied with 12V from that fuse according to my EVTM manual. Bill has proven it to be wrong from time to time.

 

Sorry mine does not say that, here is what mine says:


The RED wire 361 is your problem and here is where it goes:




/

 

wire 361 to the EGR controls solenoid?

mine is a 5 spd manual trans dif from EOD?

I'll unplug the coil and radio suppression also and try it again.

 

The 361 wire does go to the EGR and AIR solenoids.
You just do not look at the part of the diagram that says E4OD.
The coil and radio capacitor have nothing to do with fuse "I", look at the diagram. They are controlled by fuse "U".

 

Then I guess I misunderstood which fuse was blowing. The photo Bill posted previous had Fuse "U" highlighted as "PCM Relay Coil Fuse" Now I see in your post you mentioned Fuse "I". Which one is opening when turning the key on?

 

Here is what I found I unplugged everything, coil, ECM, distributor, radio suppressor, TFI, throttle position sensor, EGR plug.

still popped fuse I

I took a look at the passenger side of the engine and I notice on fuel injector for cylinder 3 has the insulator pushed out the top of the electrical plug and soaked in gasoline. I remove the plug from injector and more fuel oozes out.

So I plug everything else back in except for injector #3. And no popped MAXI fuse. I hear the fuel pump kick on and more fuel comes out the solenoid plug of the injector.
Looks like the fuel was shorting it out.

So now I need to change injectors all of them since I do not trust the brand that is in there with this issue. Painful to do??

 

will it hurt it to drive it 300' with the one injector unplugged?

 

No it will run with one unplugged.
But do not get a spark around gas setting on the engine as it can burn the truck.

 

ok all good info here and is much appreciated, any tips on changing the injectors?

 

Lime I said my 92 5.8 shock auto trans and the problem is that when its cold it'll run good but a little rough but then it'll go alway and then it'll act like it not getting fuel when its hot it'll get even worse, I check the relays for the pumps ad they're good so where do I look next and how do I test the main computer or weres the main fuse for it is??

 

Nick Seastrunk,

First off you need to start a new thread with your problem.

If it is running at all the fuse for the computer is OK.

You need to run the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) self test and then next you need to check to see what codes you have in the Computer Memory (CM).
IF you get a 111 or 11 with the KOEO test then you need to run and only then the Key On Engine Run (KOER) self test.

More information on the self-test:
Fuel Injection Technical Library » How To Run a Self-Test

Post these codes and we will see what may be wrong with your truck.

/