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1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

starter ring gear

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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 05:05 PM
  #1  
PatchMcGav's Avatar
PatchMcGav
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starter ring gear

How hard is it to replace a start ring gear in an 85 ranger? is it expensive? any help would be nice

thanks guys
 
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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 07:31 PM
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If it is an auto, you would replace the entire flex plate as it is welded on.

If the truck is a manual, take the flywheel off the engine, I use a flattened chisel and knock the old ring off. Count the teeth, write the count down, and take the old ring to auto parts and match exactly. I always double count the teeth as double work is no fun.. There are several different combinations, and you can wind up with the wrong one.

Around here, the gear is less that $15 bucks. I just put one on a 454 chevy and I think it was something like $12 bucks.

Changing the gear itself is a snap, but getting to it is where the work is.jd
 
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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 10:18 PM
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If it is standard then you either drive it off as mentioned before or cut down between a tooth and then plit with a chisel and drive off. Take the new ring gear and heat with a a torch until it starts to smoke then set it on the flywheel it will just fall on. Go off and let it cool it will shrink on and be good to go.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2008 | 11:04 AM
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well its a manual, so i have to obviously drop the tranny and take the flywheel out, then do as recommended? how hard is it to drop the tranny?
 
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Old Sep 8, 2008 | 12:08 PM
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I'm assuming 2 wheel drive.
Take off negative battery cable.
Go inside cab, pull the console, or pull the boot around the gear shift. Shift lever held to trans with 4 bolts, remove bolts and take out shift lever.
Jack up truck.(I raise all 4 wheels).
Remove starter
Remove drive shaft.
Remove speed-o cable.
Remove backup light connection.
Remove clutch slave hose.
Remove bolts in the bell housing that face the front of the engine, and trans to engine bracket if still in place.
Remove nuts from rear trans mount to crossmember.
Place jack under engine oil pan with wooden block in between.
Raise engine and trans slightly and remove rear crossmember.
Lower jack until you can reach the remaining bellhousing bolts. I use a long extension with a wiggle socket.
With the bolts out, you can now remove the trans. You will need a buddy, or a jack of some sort, trans jack being best of course.
Remove the clutch pressure plate. Clutch disc will fall out when plate is removed.
Remove bolts holding flywheel to engine.

On some models the exhuast may be in the way and you will have to take it loose for clearance.

If you have a lift, life is much easier.

With the trans tipped down, oil is going to run out the end around the seal. Auto parts has a plastic plug you that will hold the oil in the trans. It's worth the few bucks it costs. An old driveshaft yoke will do the same thing. Using a pan to catch the oil is still very messy, and the damn oil always drips in your ear, eye, down your shirt.

With the rear crossmember out, some just let the engine hang. I really don't like to do this, and don't do it if I have to take the exhaust loose.

When re-assembling, torque the flywheel bolts, and use thread locker. Torque the clutch pressure plate bolts, but thread locker isn't necessary.

If I missed something, someone will fill in.jd
 
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