Junkyard Find
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
Junkyard Find
I Scored a 7.3 fuel filter head to put on my 6.9 to act as the fuel filter and water separator. I also grabbed the throttle bracket since mine is bent, A set of injector line clamps, a new vacuum canister.
Stopped at O'riellys and got me a new Wix fuel filter for the truck for the new filter head cost $35.00.
The junkyard stuff cost me $22.00.
I asked what they wanted for the injector pump, he told me $200!!! I said damn I could get a rebuilt one for that.
What all do I have to hook up with the new filter head?
There was a line going to the IP, a line going to the return lines. I just really want to know about hooking up the wires for the water separator. Thanks guys
Stopped at O'riellys and got me a new Wix fuel filter for the truck for the new filter head cost $35.00.
The junkyard stuff cost me $22.00.
I asked what they wanted for the injector pump, he told me $200!!! I said damn I could get a rebuilt one for that.
What all do I have to hook up with the new filter head?
There was a line going to the IP, a line going to the return lines. I just really want to know about hooking up the wires for the water separator. Thanks guys
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 549
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From: Mississippi
don't know all the whereabouts about hooking them up to a 6.9 as i've got a 7.3, but one of the wires goes to the water in fuel light on the dash and one of them goes to the fuel warming plate in the filter housing. not sure what kind of winter climate you've got but i basically disconnected mine and plugged it up with JB weld since my connection leaked like screen door. hope this helps some.
speedrdr
speedrdr
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
Well my 6.9 has a fuel heater before it goes into the fuel filter, What spot does the warmer plate hook up to? I took the wire harness but it was cut, there are 3 wires in it, the water separator wire goes on the bottom correct?
The wire harness is in the picture also.
The wire harness is in the picture also.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Tillamook, Or.
This is how mine sets up
Left to right across the top of the header as it sits in the pic
#1 the vacuum switch ted to "Replace Filter" indicator Light
#2 Continuous check valve, tied to fuel return lines
#3 Schrader valve used to purge air from the system
The Black Obround connector directly below the Vacuum Switch is the pre-heater connector
On the base there is a single connector directly below the drain for the water indicator.
Hope this helps.
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
Thanks for the picture and info. Can I hook the heater up thats on the filter heat to my one that goes before the filter? Can I also run a wire from the previous water separator to the new filter head? I have the wire ends but not the whole thing.
The one for the "Change filter" Do I need to plug it off or anything?
The one for the "Change filter" Do I need to plug it off or anything?
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Tillamook, Or.
Thanks for the picture and info. Can I hook the heater up thats on the filter heat to my one that goes before the filter? Can I also run a wire from the previous water separator to the new filter head? I have the wire ends but not the whole thing.
The one for the "Change filter" Do I need to plug it off or anything?
The one for the "Change filter" Do I need to plug it off or anything?
One thing that I have picked up from this forum though is that there are threads that recommend capping off the check valve. It is suspected as a source of air intrusion
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Sweet Home, OR
I plugged off the return line port/check valve and everything was pretty good as far as air intrusion goes.
Some people said you needed it so I went and got a new one from Ford for 28 dollars and put it back in. Since then I have had complete air intrusion twice, once this morning.
If it does it one more time the port's gettin' plugged off again.
I think somehow the return lines are sucking the IP dry using the filter head port as a vent. I don't know but it's starting to **** me off. It really shouldn't as I probably need to change the return lines, so it's probably my fault.
Some people said you needed it so I went and got a new one from Ford for 28 dollars and put it back in. Since then I have had complete air intrusion twice, once this morning.
If it does it one more time the port's gettin' plugged off again.
I think somehow the return lines are sucking the IP dry using the filter head port as a vent. I don't know but it's starting to **** me off. It really shouldn't as I probably need to change the return lines, so it's probably my fault.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
You can cut the wire going to the 6.9 fuel heater and splice it to the pigtail for the 7.3 heater, they both get power from the same place.
There are three wires going to the stock water seperator.
I am running a 7.3 style water seperator, but I never hooked my indicator light up.
I always fuel at the same place, have for years and never have any water in my seperator, so I don't worry about it much.
Back when I did the engine swap, I did look at the wiring differences, and it was possible.
But right now I don't remember which wire and what had to change.
There are three wires going to the stock water seperator.
I am running a 7.3 style water seperator, but I never hooked my indicator light up.
I always fuel at the same place, have for years and never have any water in my seperator, so I don't worry about it much.
Back when I did the engine swap, I did look at the wiring differences, and it was possible.
But right now I don't remember which wire and what had to change.
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