I've recently read some things about the routing for the injectors and it seems that the two parts to the conversation are that deleting and plugging the fuel filter return line is done. The second part being that the routing to the injectors for air bleeding off the injector pump and fuel filter is changed to something same or similar to the NA 7.3 IDI.


I'm just wondering if it would be more intelligent to delete the mechanical fuel pump, install an electric that pushes 6-9 psi with 30-37 gph, redo all the lines with two filters: one prefilter with water separator after the tank selector, before the pump, then pump to stock filter.
Delete the filter return line, new fuel line throughout and map out the lines so that there is only #7 @ dead head.
I have a banks 3" downpipe and am waiting to weld on and build 8" stacks in the bed.
This is a work truck not a racer and im looking for optimal longevity....the thought is to add a new 2.5" aluminum radiator with 4x 14" electric fans, also, an air cleaner turbo box delete with a hoood ram air induction into a custom box that has a 14" blower fan into two side by side stock air cleaner filters with a 14" fan sucking from below the filters housed in a box and piped to the intake (two filters being sandwhiched by two fans). Truck should breath great, stay cold as possible and have a reliable and clean fuel source.
Water/Meth injection way later to come but for now that's the idea...


all of my old tanks were garbage, and rust is in the lines yet it starts and run great as is. ???

All the help and advice is much appreciated. Believe me.
I've still got time to plan before i do something stupid...
With 3.55 posi rear and zf5 I can burn out and chirp the tires in first and then again in second without even goin WOT.
I'm just guessing that the IP was turned up some but no black smoke ever...rarely even anything on start up.

Fuel lines are next and im planning on the PTFE stainless steel lines @ -12 or -10. Can't decide which..both are just over 1/2 in diameter inside.

help a brother out
how much of the fuel line shoudl i really replace...ALL or leave the metal injector lines...how big for the return line...same or bigger?
delete the fuel filter return? leave it in to cool the injectors and bleed air?

 

you have to leavethe metal injector lines.

 

I have always heard that you have to leave the hard lines too because the stainless steal flexable lines would vibrate pretty badly with each injection pulse. I would be curious to see how much it does though. I do know that when I calibrate hydraulic and air gauges that I can slightly see the braided lines harden. Does anyone know how far injection pressure drops in the hard lines after the fuel is injected?Just kinda curious...

 

x2 but if you didn't understand that...

YOU HAVE TO LEAVE THE METAL INJECTOR LINES!!!

Diesels engines don't run like gas engines, you can't change anything past the injection pump.

The injection pressure is close to 2,000 PSI. Its a very brief pulse that actually causes the metal lines to swell a tiny tiny bit (measuring when this happens is one way to time a diesel). The length of the line will change how long the fuel pulse takes to get to the injector, and thus change the timing by some small amount.

If you replace the metal lines with anything else, you would be extremely lucky to get to even get it running again. So in short, don't touch the metal injector lines. If you want to waste money and bling out the lines running from the tanks up to the mechanical pump, and from there to the filter, do whatever you want.

 

Solid.
So i ended up buying 3/8 rubber hose from Napa...rated @ 2200 psi, 0 perm, bio fuel safe -- rather than waiting on shipping for the black stainless PTFE.
the cost was actually more for the rubber ($4.34 rather than $3.49 per foot) i ordered 60 feet.
Not too bad considering that the old line is slightly contaminated. I'm installing brand new tanks -- the one mod i DO HAVE TO DO, is braze in 3/8 copper tubing into the fuel hangers for the return and outlet.
SO -- 3/8 copper tubing from the tank to larger 14 micron rated water separator filter (the housing and filter cost under $40 dollars each) -- then into the electric fuel pump (34 gph)...3/8 rubber hose to the stock filter housing and IP.
Mechanical fuel pump block plate with the cheby BB plate.
All of this should allow for very clean fuel with excellent throttle response.
My turbo should work with the fuel feed just great. The fuel pumps cost only $49 so i grabbed an extra for the glove box. hot wire to fuse to relay.
And i picked up the liquid electrical tape that all the guys i know use on their tractors to cover every connection point for the fuel line fittings, tank, and wiring just to keep it air tight and what not.
The water filter and housing use a 1/2 fitting that will be stepped down gto 3/8 so the only flow blockage is at the fuel pump which jumps up to 3/8 from maybe 5/16 or something like that. proably won't be much of a flow restrictor.
Just figured i would do that the right way if i was gonna do it.

the next logical step is to enhance my air intake.

the thought is to delete the stock turbo housing with filter and replace that with a air intake pipe from the intake to a custom box with two 14" fans sandwhiching two stock air filters that draw air from a custom hood scoop...ram air style. Maybe lay out a sponge filter in the front of the hood cowl to prevent water and possibly some custom finning inside to make a rain gutter.
this is bring in plenty of air without increasing the turbo size and bringing the truck to a maxout boost situation that might blow it up.
aafter all that...probably a meth injection to keep the egt cool and steam clean the cylinders haha

well what else??
I figure i got at least 100k left on this motor it has 201k and is plenty strong!!

thanks for the info about the steel lines. I just really want to know what i should do about the filter return line. I thought that it actually does some injector cooling and air bleeding on its function but i've seen a lot of guys delete that???

 

I actually just read a Ford service PDF about the fuel tank selector and all fuel supply line is to be at least 3/8 in diameter. Damn, maybe going with the -12 PTFE would have been better...
all well, next time.
im not modding the IP or anything so...whatever
but for anybody in the future, check out the -12 an PTFE line.
my 2 cents.

 

I had never thought about using it for that! I've used it a couple times to fix some broken insulation, but thats a darn good idea.

 

Don't forget install pics.

 

Will do.
Should have all the parts in tomorrow.

 

Just waiting on the 3-way manual fuel valves.
Have two coming...found a good supplier with ptfe, brass and chrome ball.
And i need one more filter and filter mount...but other than that...ready to go.

pictures on the way