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Old Sep 5, 2008 | 07:03 PM
  #16  
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You are way pass the 300hp, anyways 76cc heads are unusual do to rebuilts theses heads have, so i will asume instead a cr of 9.46:1, oh and tim pistons have 14ccs not 13, anyways:

you have a peak torque at:
449@3000
peak hp:
344@4500

this is asuming you will use long tube headers and mufflers(with out mufflers the thing gets better)
 
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Old Sep 5, 2008 | 08:04 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by hollenjoe
You are way pass the 300hp, anyways 76cc heads are unusual do to rebuilts theses heads have, so i will asume instead a cr of 9.46:1, oh and tim pistons have 14ccs not 13, anyways:

you have a peak torque at:
449@3000
peak hp:
344@4500

this is asuming you will use long tube headers and mufflers(with out mufflers the thing gets better)
Thanks man I feel like a little kid on Christmas I cant wait to hear it and drive it. Too bad it's probably gonna be a month or so at least before I get it running.

Is that typical to make my peak tq at 3000? Is that mainly just due to the xe262h cam? So between 3000 and 4500 my tq will drop but hp increase?
 
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Old Sep 6, 2008 | 03:15 AM
  #18  
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jajajaj, dont worry its just a peak, your torque its pretty much linear from 2000 till 4500, so you will have an amazing push in that range, anyways, remember to use large tube headers!!!!!!!
 
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Old Sep 6, 2008 | 03:21 AM
  #19  
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If its street aplication it will do fine, but if its on mud, remove the mufflers, you will have better torque...
 
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Old Sep 6, 2008 | 12:37 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by hollenjoe
If its street aplication it will do fine, but if its on mud, remove the mufflers, you will have better torque...
well i run in some local mud races where the stock classes dont allow open headers but theres usually a 'super stock' or 'modified stock' type class that does allow open headers. It would be awesome to get to run both classes. I made a post in the exhaust section, I was curious about cutouts. I think I would avoid the fancy electric ones but I saw a set on summit that theres just 3 wing nuts to undo and then you have open headers. Their not very expensive either. I was thinking about running something like that but I dont want to mess with it if their gonna be nothing but trouble, with leaks constantly etc.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2008 | 12:51 PM
  #21  
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yeah i use a simillar setup on 1-4 mile, but you will have to have 2 carbs with diffrent setups and advance the timming on open headers, the open header carb has to have larger jets for a richer air/fuel ratio than the muffler carb, other wise you will loose performance with the open headers. Anyways thats what i like better from eddies than from holleys, in my eddie 750 manual choke performer you can enrich the mixture just by adjusting some screws located on the front lower side of the carb, and it works for me....
 
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Old Sep 6, 2008 | 06:01 PM
  #22  
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A well built 400 will break D44's if you go with bigger tires. I've done it.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 12:40 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Mud Rat
A well built 400 will break D44's if you go with bigger tires. I've done it.
Yea I know. I'm running 35" now and dont really plan on going any bigger. They look good with the 4" lift so I will probably leave well enough alone. I dont think it would be too hard to break a D44 even with 35's especially when in the throttle with the wheels turned. I'm hoping it will hold up for a while with basically straight ahead type mudding. When it breaks I will either upgrade the D44 with stronger parts or swap in a D60, hopefully that will be a while down the road due to the $$ I am sinking into this engine I could support a part time cocaine habit thats for sure At the mud races I heard some Jeep guys talking like the D44 is really strong etc, is that just because their jeeps are alot lighter than our pickups? I always thought the 9" was somewhat bulletproof but the D44 was a 'weak link' but what do I know.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 12:44 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by hollenjoe
yeah i use a simillar setup on 1-4 mile, but you will have to have 2 carbs with diffrent setups and advance the timming on open headers, the open header carb has to have larger jets for a richer air/fuel ratio than the muffler carb, other wise you will loose performance with the open headers. Anyways thats what i like better from eddies than from holleys, in my eddie 750 manual choke performer you can enrich the mixture just by adjusting some screws located on the front lower side of the carb, and it works for me....

I run the Eddie Performer #1406, 600 cfm w/ elect. choke, I'm very happy with it.

Do you prefer the manual choke for any reason?
 
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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 04:55 AM
  #25  
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the only reason for the manual, is i removed the butterflies so i can floor the pedal even if the engine is cold.....not really, real reason, i love to have total control on my carb eating fuel cabailities......jejjeje
 
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Old Oct 1, 2008 | 05:38 PM
  #26  
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I just wanted to update this and get some advice on the heads. I decided to let a local machine shop do most of the work and assembly. I ordered the .040 over #2347 pistons from TMI. Supposed to be good for 9.5-1. I ordered the K-kit from comp cams with the timing set, springs, locks, retainers, and the XE262H cam. When they assemble the heads is there anything else I should do at this point? He mentioned he can put bigger valves in it, but I know that bigger isn't always better.

They finished up most of the machine work today so I'm hoping they will get a move on. I cant wait to actually have some power. Should be a night and day difference between 344hp 449tq 400 and my old worn out 351M
 
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Old Oct 6, 2008 | 06:37 PM
  #27  
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I don't think the bigger valves are worth the money. The next step would be porting.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2008 | 08:31 PM
  #28  
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Well i told him to just keep the valves stock size but put some stainless valves and a valve job. I couldnt really justify spending all that extra money right now.

I told them to take their time, hoping he'd give me a break on $$ but GEEEEZ, they have had it a month now. I stop in after work once a week and they are nice but maybe i shouldnt have said to take your time.

Oh yea, and I told him to balance it, was that a waste of money? or worth it? and I told him to put arp rod bolts, i guess that takes a little machining???
 
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Old Oct 11, 2008 | 07:39 AM
  #29  
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did you send your flywheel with the engine?

they just have to rebuild the rods with the bolts. its not a huge deal, i had the same thing done with my build.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2008 | 08:42 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by JBradley500
did you send your flywheel with the engine?

they just have to rebuild the rods with the bolts. its not a huge deal, i had the same thing done with my build.

Yea they got the flywheel and the harm balancer, I dont plan on spinning it real fast (6k max) but I thought it might be worth it to get it balanced. maybe a waste of money who knows. And the arp bolts will give me a little peace of mind if nothing else i guess
 
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