FYI - Shorty Headers
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Fleet Owner
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I should point out that those G9047 headers are for the 5.4 engine. The 4.6 engine uses number G9046.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
or
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Summi...4506.m20.l1116
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
or
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Summi...4506.m20.l1116
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From: Las Vegas
Thanks. i did see some that were unpainted stainless that caught my eye. we dont have rust out here in the wild wild west,so maybe some stainless ones might look kinda cool. Im really not looking forward to the driver side portion of the job though.
Did the sound change at all? I have a flowmaster on it but thats all. do i need to replace the cats, or are the oem units good enough?
Did the sound change at all? I have a flowmaster on it but thats all. do i need to replace the cats, or are the oem units good enough?
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Fleet Owner
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There's a slightly noticeable increase in that low rumble V8 sound usually associated with headers, but it's nothing the police are going to notice. One thing about the SS ones, they look good when you first put them on, but after a short while they turn a blueish color from the extreme heat which changes their appearance. You don't need to replace the cats unless they're due already. The shorty headers are a direct bolt-up to the stock exhaust with no modifications necessary. Assuming you buy the correct ones in the first place. 
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You cannot use studs to install the headers, you have to use the bolts that come with them. The reason being is that the headers hug tighter to the head and the tube at some points run in front of the bolt holes. A few of the bolts (once you manage to get them in) can only be tightened with a wrench because you cannot get a socket on them.
Here's a cut and paste of a post I already made explaining the install.
I just did this job this past weekend. I got a set of shorty steel headers from Summit Racing for $150 plus about $10 shipping. The package included the pair of headers, all of the necessary bolts and nuts, and the pair of gaskets too. Don't set your heart on saving the old manifolds because it's not always possible. In my case I have to cut them in sections in order to get access to the rusted on nuts and studs for removal. Once everything was out, the shortys did bolt right up to the engine and existing exhaust system. The driver's side was a real bear to get in there because of the steering shaft, so I ended up working it up from the bottom. I also had to get a new EGR tube, the EGR tube to manifold adapter, and an oil dipstick tube. These had to come off to be able to install the headers and didn't fair to well. The passenger side was a piece of cake to install.
Here's a cut and paste of a post I already made explaining the install.
I just did this job this past weekend. I got a set of shorty steel headers from Summit Racing for $150 plus about $10 shipping. The package included the pair of headers, all of the necessary bolts and nuts, and the pair of gaskets too. Don't set your heart on saving the old manifolds because it's not always possible. In my case I have to cut them in sections in order to get access to the rusted on nuts and studs for removal. Once everything was out, the shortys did bolt right up to the engine and existing exhaust system. The driver's side was a real bear to get in there because of the steering shaft, so I ended up working it up from the bottom. I also had to get a new EGR tube, the EGR tube to manifold adapter, and an oil dipstick tube. These had to come off to be able to install the headers and didn't fair to well. The passenger side was a piece of cake to install.
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Alloro, am i to understand that when installing shories, that i will get to install "real" header bolts instead of using the factory studs which i was going to replace when i install the shorties?
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That is correct.
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Of course, I would've been foolish to not have. I even used anti-seize on the header to exhaust flange bolts. I don't know if it will help with those, but I figured it wouldn't hurt anything.
One other bonus to having done this job is the knocking sound I had when the engine was cold is now completely gone.
One other bonus to having done this job is the knocking sound I had when the engine was cold is now completely gone.
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Yeah the knocking sound was probably alot louder when you had the exhaust leak which allowed alot of internal engine noise to escape. A buddy of mines has a Explorer that has a mani leak and it sounds like a dump truck rolling down the street!
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Thanks yet again! I will be sure to order nice bolts along with good quality gaskets. And just an FYI for anyone out there; never use any thread locker stronger than the "blue" strength stuff when working with aluminum. Never never use the "red" stuff. You will ruin the product you are working on for sure. I always use anti-seize where I do not need thread locker stuff,especially on aluminum heads. How many times have you guys used anti-seize and found it on everything and everywhere, and it never seems to come off your fingers? You look around and say, how did that stuff in get there?
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Besides using the anti-seize, be sure and run a tap (I think it was an 8mm) through the holes before you install the headers. This cleans the threads out real nice and allows you to turn the hard to reach bolts all the way in with your finger tips.
