4x4 Not Engaging
I just bought a 1997 F-150 that won't engage the 4x4. The indicator lights show both "4x4" and "4x4 Offroad" when the shifter is in the appropriate position, but the front wheels won't lock in. I've read a little in a repair manual about testing the vacuum pump, etc. but want to hear a few recommendations as well as similar ventures before I dig in. I'm pretty frugal... okay, a tight wad, and don't want to fork over the cash to a dealer. I'd rather have some fun working on it and fixing the problem myself. Any advice?
Thanks...
-Kerry
I spent a lot of time reading other entries with the same symptoms and most seem to be due to hubs engaging. I'm afraid mine might be worse...(BTW, this is a 1997 F-150 4x4 w/ manual tran.)
The truck runs fine in 2H, but in 4H the front wheels aren't pulling. In 4L, the smaller gear engages the rear wheels but not the front.
Last night I put the truck in 4H. The indicator light read "4x4" but I'm not sure if the click I heard was just the shifter or the transfer case. Anyway, I got under the truck and marked the front axles with a Sharpie. I started the truck, put it in reverse, and came back about three feet. Again, I looked under the truck and the marks had moved. No problem, right? Well, I repeated the process for 2H and the same thing happened, the axle moved with the wheels.
So I jacked up the right front put the truck in 2H. When I spun the tire, again the axle moved with it. In 4H, the same. In 4L, the same.
Does this sound like the hubs are siezed up or more like a transfer case issue?
Jared
I'd just lock the truck into 4HI, drive it into a parking space (about a 15 foot drive is fine and should lock anything up), shut it down (you have a floor mounted 4by shifter, right?), block the rear tires, put the truck tranny into neutral then you'll be forcing against the other tires if everything works, not against a gear (although you can do that too and accomplish this test). Jack both front wheels off the ground, and check to see if you can freely rotate both front tires by hand. One side may roll freely, but the other should lock up, as you most likely have a non-locking front diff.
I am new to these types of 4WD systems as I just bought a 2000 not that long ago, so if anybody sees a flaw in this train of thought be sure to pipe up.
-Kerry
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So I'm driving in the ice/snow and attempt to put the truck in 4H. Indicator light, click, etc. all sound/look good. But a friend watches the front tires while I give it gas. The rears spin, but not the fronts.
Obviously (supported by Jared's diagnosis) the 4x4 isn't engaging. But where does it sound like the problem is? Transfer case? Dirty gears? Dealer or doitmyself? Has anyone seen this on a 97+ truck?
Thanks again guys,
Jonathan
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My advice is to try a jack up and rotate test first before you start thinking you have a mechanical flaw. Make sure the system is not engaging. The only way I can think of is to engage it, drive it a short distance, and then jack it up and check for rotation or lock up.
If you do have a mechanical flaw, and this is a center disconnect style system, it will be in one of two places: the t-case or the diff as you have no hubs. In other words, somewhere in that area of the front shaft would sound resonable.
Does it grind? Are you only attempting the shift when you start slipping?...which would break things in the system, as parts would be moving faster than others then suddenly have to be moving at the same rate...crack!
I'm sure that, since this doesn't have hubs and you hadn't mentioned any noise, it's gotta be working or someone has removed parts. I say that because the system seems to be virtually mechanical in nature and when things like that break, they let you know.
-Kerry
First off, if you have the switched electrical type of t-case, you have that to consider as a problem. Generally the electric motor that drives the mechanism will ether blow fuses or just quit working. Nasty little habits and it's been like that for as long as I can remember the push button/rotary **** systems being around.
Secondly, since this is a center disconnect type diff system (and I use that term loosly, as center disconnect is actually used to describe the t-case types) all of the components necessary to lock you into 4x modes are located either in the t-case or the front diff...not the outer sections of the axle.
What does this mean? Well it means that unless you intend to throw a completely different type of set up under your front end, or somebody engineers a very expensive kit to change the lock up from the diff to the hub ends then you aren't going to swap a whole lot of anything.

Perhaps well all learn a little more when we get a guru of these systems to post more about the secrets of this style of 4x4 system
Sorry I couldn't help you guys more.
-Kerry
The 4x4 needed a slow roll to engage. I can now feel the difference when turning (small hops) and climbing small hills. However, sometimes it will disengage with a medium-loud pop. This occurs when climbing a hill too steep and sometimes even when turning.
I'm thinking I need to open up the transfer case and check the gears for damage/too much sludge. Does this sound like the right train of thought? Anyone done this before?
(1997 F-150)
"Actually the 97 to present 4x4s do not have hubs at all. They have a central axle disconnect which seperates the wheels from the gears and driveshaft.
First check the linkages from the lever to the t-case. These are notorious for rusting up and making it difficult or impossible to shift.
If the linkage is free, you may have an issue with the syncros in the t-case. These allow the case to be shifted at any speed. Will the case pop into 4x4 if you slowly roll ahead while pulling on the lever? Have you tried putting the transmission in neutral and then shifting the case? If not try these and let us know what happens."
This is really irritating since I don't like all of the fancy electrical/automatic junk. I thought I avoided some of it by ordering the floor shifter in lieu of the dash push button.




