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I have Flowtech long tubes for like 2 or 3 years now. I just ck them every once in a while. They never backed out on me. Id look at something moving around, that is causing them to losen up. If everything seems good, then id get the wire tie ones, or the ones with the tabs that you bend up to keep it from backing out.
Antiseize is use to lubricate the threads to ensure an accurate torque on the bolts & believe it or not will work to keep the bolts from backing out.
loctite also serves to lubricate the threads for accurate installation torque, however, heat kills loctite, which is probably why it isn't holding. I would be hesitant to put anti-sieze on a bolt that is already loosening when it isn't supposed to.
thats what i thought too... I went and got new gaskets today, ill throw them on in the morining, and tighten them down best i can, its odd i can only get a socket on about 1/2 or 1/3 of the bolts. Then i have to use a wrench. Im starting to think there porrly designed headers, as my shorties were the same way, but i didnt have such a problem with exhaust leaks.
One of the reasons I didn't install headers in my truck or bronco yet is because I don't want to deal with leaking gaskets and don't have the money for a really good set of headers but when I had headers on my 79 f-250 with a 400 and in my 70 1/2 camaro 350 I was always changing gaskets until I got some nitro seal gaskets from napa,in the truck all I did was check them for about a week of heat up and cool down cycles and snugged them up and I never had a problem again drove it for 4 yrs till I sold it and on my camaro I had to replace the headers because the flange was so warped from over tightening and I snapped a collector flange,I put on a set of coated headers with nitro seals and they were good for 5 years until I sold it.
Check your flanges and make sure they are not warped and install a good set of header gaskets(not the junk MR gasket ones) and as was said check your hangers and muffler supports
Most headers are like that. Use a crows foot for proper toruqing. I use a ignition wrench to tighten mine. or SHCS. Some that didnt fit, I screwed it into a nut which was in a vice, then took a angle grinder to it. The bolt will spin and give a semi even surface. redneck lathe grinder???
Well i comletely took the headers out. Cleaned the mating surfaces until they were almost mirror like, installed the o2 sensor and reinstalled everything, its now almost 10 and i started at 2 with an hour break for dinner. 7 hours... I here by swear i will NEVER again in my life by another set of hooker headers. EVER. If this dont hold. Im ripping them out and going to throw them at the nearest chevy.
I vote that you use the twisted-wire technique used to keep aircraft blots tight on essential parts. (IE: the prop) Not sure what the technical name for that procedure is.
It's over the top, but would be awesome.
It's called Safety Wire. I don't think it would work in this application.
Why wouldn't safety wire work? The heads of the bolts would need a small through hole drilled in them, but after that, I don't see why safety wire wouldn't work.
I feel your pain!! I have Hooker Hedders on 3 of my big blocks. I went through HELL trying to get them to seal.
I tried every combo I could get and then used some Percy's Aluma Seal gaskets with the dead soft inserts and used some of the Stage 8 bolts with the locking tabs. NO MORE PROBLEMS!!
On the collector end though, I did use the stainless flex right behind the collector to allow for motor "torque" and used the steel pinch nuts on the collector bolts. Any other nut would loosen and I would loose collector seal.
Thats why I dont like headers. If I do something to the exhaust, I'm looking into the SANDERSON manifolds. They are polished and tune to flow as well as headers
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