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well, my 69 ranger that ive had for 15 years, is starting to get a little weak, and the guy i got it from said he replaced the engine long before, with a 352 mind you, and since ive never had to work on it, i never questioned it till now. a freind said to get the casting numbers and thatll tell. so anyways mine is c7me-a the heads are d2te, which i decipherd as 1972 truck heads, which i cant find any info on. so does this mean i have a 428?? how can i really tell?
Without tearing into it, you cant be 100% certain what you have. What you can do to determine what crank you have is a dowel test. Put the damper on the 0(TDC) pull #1&4 plugs. Drop a dowel in the #1 and mark it at the edge of the plug hole, remove and insert in #4 and remark, Remove and measure the distance between marks. 3.5" 352/360 3.75" 390/427 3.98" 428
so glad you guys are pesimistic...anyways, im not sure a 428 would be a good thing anyways. the numbers are what they are. ive got a lot of high $ parts on this motor, so i would prefer to have the best i can get.
actually i got the motor to what i could find as zero. and the distance was 2 inches. the options wher btc, and atc, with a 0 in between. i put a dowel in the #1 and it was 2 inches. maybe someone could shed some light on my problem
It's common to often find the same casting number on different bore FE and FT blocks. While there are some specific casting numbers most are generic. The 390 in my Cougar is a C7ME-6015-A block. Even though you can measure the stroke you still have to remove a head to see what the bore is. Something you'll find out when you take it apart. Of all the FE parts blocks are often the mystery. Some have no casting numbers at all. The rest of the parts are easy enough to ID by the casting number on them.
actually i got the motor to what i could find as zero. and the distance was 2 inches. the options wher btc, and atc, with a 0 in between. i put a dowel in the #1 and it was 2 inches. maybe someone could shed some light on my problem
From the 0, turn the crank exactly 1/2 turn, stick the dowell back in the hole, mark it same as the first time. Measure the distance betrween the marks. That is the stroke.
actually i got the motor to what i could find as zero. and the distance was 2 inches. the options wher btc, and atc, with a 0 in between. i put a dowel in the #1 and it was 2 inches. maybe someone could shed some light on my problem
What ? 2" what are you doing with the dowel ? With the engine at TDC you want to mark the dowel for position in holes 1 & 4 "then measure the distance between the marks" you should see a minimum of 3.5" Ho far the dowel falls into #1 doesn't mean squat as per say.
Unless I'm mistaken the dowel test can be done "without turning the crank" in holes 1&4 or 6&7 (or 1/7 - 4/6) @ TDC location.
actually i got the motor to what i could find as zero. and the distance was 2 inches. the options wher btc, and atc, with a 0 in between. i put a dowel in the #1 and it was 2 inches. maybe someone could shed some light on my problem
Re read what RMB posted. With #1 at TDC stick the dowel into the spark plug hole and mark using a common edge as a guide. Then stick it in #4 and mark again noting the same common edge as a guide. Then you measure the distance between the marks. You can also rotate #1 to BDC if that's easier after you mark it at TDC. It make take a few times to ge the hang of it. Or you can wait until you remove the engine and look at the crank markings. That'll tell for certain.
You either have to bottom out the piston(#1that is) then measure how much it travels full stroke to get those #'s for 352/360,390 or 428. i took out #1 plug,dropped in a dowel,crawled under the truck,stuck a long breaker bar and socket on the nut on the crank pulley,fiddled around and turned it until i determined bottom of the stroke,marked the position on the dowel,then back under truck,turned crank pulley 180 degees,and measured diff. between 1st and second marks on dowel....if you only had 2 inches from the plug hole to top of piston,you were somewhere in the area of halfway thru the piston stroke,if youve got less than 3.5 inches below plug hole,that piston cant be at bottom of its stroke.
wow, im a ford guy from way back, but sometimes it just blows my mind with some of their thinking. i really appreciate everyones insight, but at the same time, im really confused as why ford would make it so dificult to identify what they have?? it doesnt make sense. all im sure of is that i have a block that says 352 on the front, c7me-a on the side and the heads say d2te.
wow, im a ford guy from way back, but sometimes it just blows my mind with some of their thinking. i really appreciate everyones insight, but at the same time, im really confused as why ford would make it so dificult to identify what they have?? it doesnt make sense. all im sure of is that i have a block that says 352 on the front, c7me-a on the side and the heads say d2te.
Ford used smart thinking. When they built the engine there was a tag under the dist. hold down or the coil bracket that told what the engine was. As to the blocks all being marked 352, well they used the same block for most of the engines, which is smarter and cheaper than a seperate blocks for each engine. You can't tell a 396 BB Chevy from a 427 from the outside either.
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