dealer says my vin# has 1 pump & 1 pump relay.

 

anyone know?

 

i won't disagree with the dealer... my van has one relay and one pump as well.

fuel pressures sound good enuff that i would not go change out the pump. (my van does 40psi key on engine cold and not running - pressure changes upon startup and also on outside temp...) what i was concerned about was that there was NO fuel pressure for some reason... and you do have pressure.

i assume you are cranking the engine with your foot OFF the gas pedal - ie. climb in and just turn the key... (no intention to insult, but strange things happen so i had to ask...)

were it mine, i would next go to the ign switch harness at the column and get out my test light and manual and confirm that each wire in the vehicle side of the ign switch harness is being energized at the correct time.

i would also get out a multimeter or find some way to confirm i had spark...

last and final thought for the day would be to pull the ECM connector off the module and CAREFULLY examine the pins for corrosion, damage, and then look to see that they are all at the same height. you could even use a small needlenose plier set to carefully grasp and push each pin and see one will dive down into the connector.

conclusion. to start the engine needs gas and fuel. i are believe you have fuel but don't know about spark... my manuals do not cover COP testing...

maybe someone more knowledgeable about this year could help - i am sure there must be some sort of crank sensor or some to indicate base timing to the computer. does this vehicle have a SPOUT connector?? would not expect to see one, but... (spout connector on my van is like an ATC fuseholder near the brake master and has a grey fuse looking jumper plugged into it. when the grey thing is pulled out of the holder the spark occurs at the distributor setting and the computer calculated advance curve does not occur. it is for setting base timing of the distributor.) if it has one, would pulling it help? also, i hear fairly regularly of some mustang owners wiping out some sensor near their crankshaft when the engine loses a belt... any possibility the crank sensor is damaged, loose, bad, or not adjusted correctly (like a hall-effect sensor in a harley tranny has to be w/in a certain distance of the gear or the squarewave output signal is erratic, sometimes we used to have to try different sensors because the man. did not always glue the coil in the pickup at the correect depth )

sorry been in the boneyards all day digging out oddball parts for my van,
neil

 

suitcase;
I have a few ideas some of witch might sound off the wall but i have seen these problems before in a freinds 2000 e150 he had a 302 but they might help ya out. first have you checked the trouble codes on the computer? if not you should even after you have the van running it could have a code or two that would point you in the right direction. if you have access to a code reader you might want to check them after it will not start but before you get it running. the issuses that have seen before or as follows. 1 lose or broken vacume hose, 2 bad oil presure sending unit on my buddies van it was not reading any pressure when he first tryed to start the van and the computer would not let it start. and third you could have sticking fuel injectors that when they are presurized to begine with they will not open after you let it sit for a little bit the presure will drop and unstick the injectors. and one more i just thought of that might be happening is a bug in the injector wireing so when you go to start it they do not fire and this problem could also be present while it is running but if it is an intermite thing it might not interup them enough to stall the van. I hope you get this sorted out and let me know if any of my ideas help thanks and good luck.

erik
ps i agree older vehicals where much easer to work on. i have a 1984 bronco and i diagnose and repair almost any non major problem in under an hour you can also tune this thing with nothing more than a screw driver.. i am only 29 but i miss the good old days

 

neil- further testing-- energized 24 and runs 24 lbs. also 22 and 22; and 18 &18 running.foot is off throttle to start. will check other suggestions. if pump comes out; will see if i can use cut off tool to "hole" floor above pump, hole saw first for parameters. protect tank w/ sheetsteel or wood.

fiitlic- have code reader , no codes. you think all injectors could stick at once? van seems to be developing a small miss. 18 lbs. pressure?

back by mon. thanks guys.

 

by wed. 10/22.

 

After doing all of these maintenance repairs, I finally got the van registered, insured, and on the road with all 4 new tires.

After about 40 miles of driving, I filled up and added fuel treatment. A few miles later, I had the codes P0174 and P0171 which are system too lean bank 1 and 2.

I quickly googled to see what could have caused those codes. A faulty gas cap? Bad O2 sensors? Dirty MAF sensor? Dirty fuel filter (already replaced it)? PCV valve?

I will take the van in on Saturday and check the gas cap, change out the 2 O2 sensors, clean the MAF sensor, and replace the fuel filter once more.

I have three questions for you. Is all this necessary? Also, where is the PCV valve located and how much is it? I can't see it right now, but perhaps it would be in clear view once I have the intake tubes off? Also, which O2 sensors are the bank 1 and bank2? Drivers side?

 

i wonder if the fuel treatment is having an effect... like is it possible that the percentage of treatment is somehow building up in the fuel tank?

also, my van runs at 40 psi... but i do not know the spec's for your year. it has been my understanding that as pressure drops, air/fuel ratio drops, ie the mixture richens... perhaps someone can comment?

neil

 

i am sort of glad this happened yesterday. This van will be on the road full time, Sunday through Friday in the mornings and at night. I also have a 2004 E-350 5.4 v8 with over 175k miles on it. I believe I changed out O2 sensors at around the same mileage....around 75k miles...After changing out the two O2 sensors on the 2004 van, the codes never came back.

 

the o2 sensors could very well be causeing the codes. if you dont have the money to change them try a junk yard you might find a deal or you could try and clean them some but most ppl say this does not work . i have had some sucess cleaning them with rubbing acholhol but it is only a temp fix. you could also try running some higher octance gas thru the system this will help clean out engine and sometimes the o2 sensors . you could also put in some octane booster but i would not continuously run the higher octane with the prices of gas.. hope this helps some .

 

I went out and bought two Bosch O2 sensors and installed them. When I fired up the van, the "Service Engine Light" was mysteriously gone and I was happy. After driving the van around all day today, the light came back on and what do you know? The same two codes; P0171 and P0174 System too lean bank 1 and 2

This is what I have done so far. I have cleaned the MAF sensor using the correct cleaner. I have replaced what seemed to be faulty oxygen sensors. Also replaced the PCV and the fuel filter. What else do I need to fix?? Vacuum leak in a hose?

This van has a fresh 87 octane gas with a bottle of Lucas fuel treatment.....help please!!!

 

I just checked the two hoses that run after the MAF sensor and on the air intake and those two seemed to be fine without any vacuum leaks. I checked the PCV valve and tubing again and no issues there. I ran the vehicle and popped the tube off the PCV and there were plenty of vacuum.

I noticed the engine oil dip stick wasn't sitting correctly, so i removed all the crud off and now it sits all the way flush. I just can't think of anything else that could be faulty. A bad gas cap maybe???