Hi guys (and maybe a gal or two). I am looking into buying this '89 F150 as a winter truck. ****LOOK 4X4 89 Truck Ford F150**** (that's odd that it makes the link into the heading of the add)

Its got a 5-speed trans and the 4.9 I6 engine. It is also equipped with 4wd. I am just looking for some tips on what to look for. What normally goes bad on these and/or what are the common problems?

I currently own a 1988 Cadillac Fleetwood FWD, but it got beat up pretty bad last winter and it will soon be a collectible (its 1 of 1028 ever made) so I want to try to keep it out of the snow and salt this year. I am also an active member of the Cadillac forums (www.cadillacforums.com) so I am hoping you guys will be as helpful as they have been over there.

Thanks,
Saber

 

Check the underside for excessive rust, especially around the rear spring shackles. Check the floorpan for holes, you don't want to find one by sticking your foot thru it.

Make sure the transfer case engages and the transmission doesn't catch on any gears. The big six is a great motor and will last longer than any part of the body will.

NOTE: Funny, I actually saw this ad last week, as I'm local to the area. Doesn't look bad from the pics but drive it first. He does state the auto hubs (junk) don't engage...so no 4x4. 700 bucks is CHEAP though, but you might need a better set of tires on the back to get thru these Chicagoland winters if that 4WD isn't working. Few years ago I paid twice that for my old 5.0 2WD that didn't look half this good. Something good to be said about those gas prices...

 

russsssssssssssssssssssssssssst.

as mentioned the rear end of the frame and the hangers.

and leaky gas tanks.

expect a 20 year old truck to need something somewhere. but if mechanically taken care of, it is the body and frame that will let you down first.

 

looking at the pics I dont see gaping holes in the wheelwells. that is a good sign.

does the ad really say the auto hubs dont work? I thought it was just 4-Low

 

what everyone said about rust.

offer 600.

welcome to fte.

 

Thanks for some of the quick replies. To be honest I don't care much about body rust, but I will definitely check the under body. We have a dump truck on out farm with a piece of plywood as a floor, so that doesn't concern me much either. Gas, I don't care about that. I would rather have the power to merge onto the highway without fear of getting run over than have to shell out a little extra in gas.

Virto, explain to me more about the auto locking hubs. I know a decent amount about cars as I am going to COD for a degree in auto tech. I know what locking hubs are (the ones where you gotta get out and turn on the 4wd by hand at each of the front wheels) but I have never heard of the auto locking ones. Also, he doesn't state that they are not working but states that the handle has come off the transfer case (I think that's what he means). If it has locking hubs then that means the transfer case is only to go from 4hi to 4lo right? Then you just use the locking hubs to switch from 2wd to 4wd.

 

Saber,

Autolocking hubs are vacuum actuated, and engage with push button 4WD that is common today and was available on mid-90s Ford trucks.

EDIT: I THINK the ad stated it had auto lockers. I might have misread. I don't think push-button was avail til 92+...meaning this truck should have manuals.

Manual lockers require you to get out of the cab, turn the **** to "lock" and then engage the transfer case, and go. These are by far the more reliable and preferred option, if not somewhat less convienient.

I haven't looked at this truck, but I'll tell you I did think about it. The only way to determine if the shift lever on the xfer case is simply disconnected would be to take a look for yourself.

COD = College of DuPage, for anyone reading that wondered.

The transfer case should have selections for 4HI, 4LO, N, and 2HI.

Trucks like these are GREAT for an automotive student, be it mechanical or autobody, as they will ALWAYS need some kind of work. FTE can help set you up to fix a ton of stuff yourself, and you'll learn in the process. Older cars and trucks that aren't OBDII are a great way to learn...the work isn't difficult in most cases and the parts are usually quite affordable.

As long as it runs and drives, QL is right...start at 600 and you found a bargain.

 

The top of the ad says SOLD. Does that matter?

The auto locking hubs aren't vacuum controlled though - you're thinking of the newer '97 & up trucks.

 

the 1978 TA 6.6 for $1G however...thats worth looking at. the engine as is is worth darn near that (provided its the real poncho and not the 403)

 

Yeah, I just talked to the guy and he sold it to someone last night. Damn.

 

A broken transfer case linkage is common on these older trucks, the pivot point siezes and when the driver forces it the linkage breaks. It's not much to fix, lots of these truck kicking around junkyards so parts are plentifull.
The 4wd system allows shift on the fly between 2wd hi and 4wd hi, but you have to stop and put the tranny in neutral to get into 4low. In case you don't know you can't drive in 4wd on dry pavement.. unless you are only going straight forward or back. As long as the transfer case is in 2wd you can drive anywhere regardless if the front hubs are locked or open.
U-joints in the frnt axle commonly sieze from lack of use, the factory joints have no grease fittings but replacements aften do. There are 3 U-joints in the TTB front suspension, the outer ones are relatively easu to get to after disassembling the hub, the center one requires the diff be dropped.

Besides common wear items like brakes and U-joints these trucks typically require little service, in most cases the body rots away before the powertrain gives up.

 

where is this at?

 

in the same chicago area craigslist for 8/27...I was scrolling around trying to find the original ad.