Trailer Brakes (wiring)?
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Farmington, Minnesota
Trailer Brakes (wiring)?
Anyone have issues with their trailer brakes not being as strong as they should. I have the prodigy controller, and I have to turn it up all the way with a 10K trailer, and it doesn't seem to brake very well. Now when the same trailer is pulled by my buddies truck, he has his controller set at about half the power and it brake way more.
Brakes on the trailer are in good shape.
Could there be a wiring issue that would cause it to function normally, but at only half the power?
Brakes on the trailer are in good shape.
Could there be a wiring issue that would cause it to function normally, but at only half the power?
Gone Fishin for Mark
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,354
Likes: 2
From: West of Houston
Jason, the top four things to check there are the ground then the ground, then the ground and last but not least, check the ground. 
Just for grins you could open up the actual connector ans see if all of the BLUE wire is still attached good.
I believe the Prodigy has a lifetime waranty.
Just for grins you could open up the actual connector ans see if all of the BLUE wire is still attached good.
I believe the Prodigy has a lifetime waranty.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,726
Likes: 5
From: Slatington, PA
Definately check the ground. We had a trailer once where the ground wire going from the trailer to the truck broke and it was using the trailer ball as a ground. It worked, but not well at all (this was lights though, not brakes).
Gone Fishin for Mark
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,354
Likes: 2
From: West of Houston
The ball will usually work as a ground, but typically it takes a few miles to get a good connection. Just because the ball might look all shiney ( mine don't 
) the inside of the coupler is likely nasty.
When was the last time anyone got down and looked up into the coupler? I occasionaly give mine a shot of brake or carb cleaner followed by a dose of PB or similar. I do not use grease because I don't like greasy *****.....
) the inside of the coupler is likely nasty. When was the last time anyone got down and looked up into the coupler? I occasionaly give mine a shot of brake or carb cleaner followed by a dose of PB or similar. I do not use grease because I don't like greasy *****.....
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Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Farmington, Minnesota
The ball will usually work as a ground, but typically it takes a few miles to get a good connection. Just because the ball might look all shiney ( mine don't ) the inside of the coupler is likely nasty.
When was the last time anyone got down and looked up into the coupler? I occasionaly give mine a shot of brake or carb cleaner followed by a dose of PB or similar. I do not use grease because I don't like greasy *****.....
) the inside of the coupler is likely nasty. When was the last time anyone got down and looked up into the coupler? I occasionaly give mine a shot of brake or carb cleaner followed by a dose of PB or similar. I do not use grease because I don't like greasy *****.....
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If you're using a receiver hitch, you not only must have continuity through the ball but through the insert hardware as well. Under no circumstances would I rely solely on the hitch hardware to ground trailer brakes.
Gone Fishin for Mark
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,354
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From: West of Houston
Make no mistake, the hitch will usually work as a ground. It is just best to not have to rely on it.
Back to the original post.....The fact that it works when you turn it to full power really does point to a weak ground. The lower power isn't making the bridge but the higher power is, but not fully.
My guess is that 95% of trailer wiring issues are ground related. The remaining 5% are due to corrosion or varmints.
Back to the original post.....The fact that it works when you turn it to full power really does point to a weak ground. The lower power isn't making the bridge but the higher power is, but not fully.
My guess is that 95% of trailer wiring issues are ground related. The remaining 5% are due to corrosion or varmints.
Go Bills !
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,778
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From: Buffalo, NY
Just a thought, and grounding was the first also. But i had a trailer the brakes felt week. They all needed to be adjusted in the drums.. Then she tugged something fierce after the adjustment. 
(come on, the trailer) I also had a trailer that the magnets were warn out.
(come on, the trailer) I also had a trailer that the magnets were warn out.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Farmington, Minnesota
I'm trying to figure out how it is grounded. It has a 7 pin connector spliced to the factory harness at the back of the truck that runs to the harness in the cab and is connected to the Prodigy. It has to be grounded through there some how. Any Ideas? I will check the splice for bad connections.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,426
Likes: 6
From: Sioux Falls, SD
My magnets were the culprit in my situation - I wish it would have been a ground, could have been easier to find. I upgraded the brake controller to the P3 and the troubleshooting screen showed the voltage was good at 12 but the current (amps) was way high.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,426
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From: Sioux Falls, SD
You could also stop by a trailer or camper dealer and they could hook up a dummy plug into the truck's 7 pin connector to verify all the truck connections are good - if the truck shows good then you can isolate it to the trailer. I hate hunting down electrical problems - could take 10 minutes ar 10 hours! Mine drove me batty for weeks......