Trailer Brakes (wiring)?
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,225
Likes: 1
From: Farmington, Minnesota
Hey Jason,
I've dealt with lots of trailer brake issues.
There should be a ground from the trailer connector on the truck side to the truck frame. The brake controller should also have a ground as well, that is part of the truck connector normally but who knows if yours has been spliced in.
I've dealt with lots of trailer brake issues.
There should be a ground from the trailer connector on the truck side to the truck frame. The brake controller should also have a ground as well, that is part of the truck connector normally but who knows if yours has been spliced in.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,426
Likes: 6
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Does the trailer have lights? The reason I ask is it sounds like you might not be getting power at the 7 pin connector. If the trailer has lights at least you can verify the power source is connected.
Good write up/explanation Chris.
Good write up/explanation Chris.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,426
Likes: 6
From: Sioux Falls, SD
These readings are correct from the #1 and #2 pins in the diagram above. But in addition you should be getting 12V+ from the Power pin (#4 and #1) on the 7 pin connector with the ignition on. So, I am a little confused. You are getting a reading from the #2 pin and not from the #4?
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,225
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From: Farmington, Minnesota
Yeah everything works, but the brakes seem to be at half power when hooked up to my truck.
I took apart the 7 pin connector too get a look at the wiring behind it. Lo and behold the to bottom connections are rusted to he!!, and those are the ground and the brakes.
So I am going start by replacing the 7 pin, should I get a factory one that plugs in to the harness? Or do they make after market ones with a plug that are make/model specific.
I took apart the 7 pin connector too get a look at the wiring behind it. Lo and behold the to bottom connections are rusted to he!!, and those are the ground and the brakes.
So I am going start by replacing the 7 pin, should I get a factory one that plugs in to the harness? Or do they make after market ones with a plug that are make/model specific.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,225
Likes: 1
From: Farmington, Minnesota
These readings are correct from the #1 and #2 pins in the diagram above. But in addition you should be getting 12V+ from the Power pin (#4 and #1) on the 7 pin connector with the ignition on. So, I am a little confused. You are getting a reading from the #2 pin and not from the #4?
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,426
Likes: 6
From: Sioux Falls, SD
OK, if your trailer lights are working then you should have 12V+ from the #3 pin to ground (either #1 or shiney spot).
That should give you good voltage on pins #3 and #2. 5 & 6 you should see the voltage flicker off & on with the directionals. But use pin 1 (ground) when you test the other pins to make sure your connections are good to the 7 pin connector. That should leave you with #4 being the only pin without voltage.
That should give you good voltage on pins #3 and #2. 5 & 6 you should see the voltage flicker off & on with the directionals. But use pin 1 (ground) when you test the other pins to make sure your connections are good to the 7 pin connector. That should leave you with #4 being the only pin without voltage.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,426
Likes: 6
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Yeah everything works, but the brakes seem to be at half power when hooked up to my truck.
I took apart the 7 pin connector too get a look at the wiring behind it. Lo and behold the to bottom connections are rusted to he!!, and those are the ground and the brakes.
So I am going start by replacing the 7 pin, should I get a factory one that plugs in to the harness? Or do they make after market ones with a plug that are make/model specific.
I took apart the 7 pin connector too get a look at the wiring behind it. Lo and behold the to bottom connections are rusted to he!!, and those are the ground and the brakes.
So I am going start by replacing the 7 pin, should I get a factory one that plugs in to the harness? Or do they make after market ones with a plug that are make/model specific.
oops, should have read this first....... Sounds like you go the culprit! Good call Barry
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Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,225
Likes: 1
From: Farmington, Minnesota
OK, if your trailer lights are working then you should have 12V+ from the #3 pin to ground (either #1 or shiney spot).
That should give you good voltage on pins #3 and #2. 5 & 6 you should see the voltage flicker off & on with the directionals. But use pin 1 (ground) when you test the other pins to make sure your connections are good to the 7 pin connector. That should leave you with #4 being the only pin without voltage.
That should give you good voltage on pins #3 and #2. 5 & 6 you should see the voltage flicker off & on with the directionals. But use pin 1 (ground) when you test the other pins to make sure your connections are good to the 7 pin connector. That should leave you with #4 being the only pin without voltage.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,426
Likes: 6
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Not sure what source to recommend for a 7 pin connector. You can get them anywhere. I got one from a RV dealer and mounted it inside the drivers side bed wall to make it easy to plug my 5th wheel in.
Gone Fishin for Mark
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,354
Likes: 2
From: West of Houston
Jason, I've been fishin way too much to comment tonight. I'll check back in the morning. You probably don't need to replace the whole pigtail. Just clean the connections or replace the plug. It's available at any parts house or Wal-Mart.
Bear in mind that sometimes the #4 is NOT even hooked up on the truck side and if you don't need a 12v source constant to the trailer, it does'nt need to be.
Bear in mind that sometimes the #4 is NOT even hooked up on the truck side and if you don't need a 12v source constant to the trailer, it does'nt need to be.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,225
Likes: 1
From: Farmington, Minnesota
If it is wired correctly you should only get 12V from the #3 when the lights are turned on from inside the cab. When the lights are off it should be zero. That is one thing a would verify when you get the new 7 pin connector - make sure all the wiring is correct if it was done before you had the truck. Also, you should have 12V on pin #4 when the ignition is on.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,426
Likes: 6
From: Sioux Falls, SD
#1 and #2 sound correct. But you should only get voltage to #3 when the light are turned on in the cab.