Radiator
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 96
Likes: 1
Well.. for most modern cars and truck these days, the big engineers have done a good job (for the most part) of engineering the cooling system to work and by taking a designed part away (as in the shroud, chin spoiler, ducting, etc), can have some great effect at times.
But if you follow most of the general rules in any modification of any car and truck cooling system, you should be ok.
If you live in a very hot climate, you might consider a better radiator (alum, more rolls or a later one) with a extra electrical fan (setup). But again, what other modification have to done to the engine ?.. cam, higher compression, thermostat, etc?.. many so called high performance modification can add to your overheating problem. Even too much advance in the timing!
my .02 cents.
YOU can't beleive it!, I am the one that was asking !..LOL.. gone are the days of $100 recores by any shop !
But if you follow most of the general rules in any modification of any car and truck cooling system, you should be ok.
If you live in a very hot climate, you might consider a better radiator (alum, more rolls or a later one) with a extra electrical fan (setup). But again, what other modification have to done to the engine ?.. cam, higher compression, thermostat, etc?.. many so called high performance modification can add to your overheating problem. Even too much advance in the timing!
my .02 cents.
YOU can't beleive it!, I am the one that was asking !..LOL.. gone are the days of $100 recores by any shop !
Former Vendor
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 311
Likes: 18
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,887
Likes: 3,130
From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
Ashley,
Your on-line catalog only lists hoses, gaskets and caps, no radiators for our trucks. Are you referring to later model units we can retrofit into our trucks. I want a stock radiator.
Your on-line catalog only lists hoses, gaskets and caps, no radiators for our trucks. Are you referring to later model units we can retrofit into our trucks. I want a stock radiator.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,299
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
Edit -- maybe it's not that different, maybe it's the angle?
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 96
Likes: 1
I'll have to wait until it gets here to compare.. one thing is that the newer radiator could be better in the core metal, fins and tubes.. so.. it may work just as well ?.. could be. .but I will find out and report back to you guys..
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,887
Likes: 3,130
From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
bczee,
I will be looking forward to seeing your review of the radiator. The one in my panel is in pretty sorry condition, and it's the best of three I have. I noticed last night that the upper tank looks like it's developing what looks like small bulges.
I will be looking forward to seeing your review of the radiator. The one in my panel is in pretty sorry condition, and it's the best of three I have. I noticed last night that the upper tank looks like it's developing what looks like small bulges.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,299
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
When they pulled the upper tank open on mine, they found that the internal braces (copper tube maybe 3/8" dia with flattened ends) running front to rear on the tank had come unsoldered. It had some bulges between the braces. They soldered in some better braces and worked it back into shape. I'm sure this was all because the PO had been running a 13-lb cap instead of the stock 4-lb'er.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,887
Likes: 3,130
From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
Ross,
That's probably the problem with my radiator but that's not all. I've had three radiators in the truck so far. The first radiator was plugged and had a bad core, I pulled the core out of a '46 truck radiator and soldered the tanks from the original radiator. After I fired up the truck I got leaks, not from my solder jobs, no leaks at all, the core, although it looked almost new, have a dozen or more pin holes in the core. The second radiator I didn't even try to install because when I did an inspection of it I found numerous tubes had been bent over and soldered shut. The one I have in it now looked pretty decent but when I installed it and fired the truck up I found the front had a good sized hole. Since it was an old radiator I decided to plug it with some epoxy putty, along with a can of stop leak. This had held up but I just don't think it will last for long.
The bottom line is a 50+ radiator is a radiator with 50+ parts. I figure if I chase one problem, bad core, the next weak link will go. The metal in the tanks have been eroded over the last 50+ years, it may not be noticeable but I am sure the metal has gotten thinner over the years. At this point new is the way to go.
That's probably the problem with my radiator but that's not all. I've had three radiators in the truck so far. The first radiator was plugged and had a bad core, I pulled the core out of a '46 truck radiator and soldered the tanks from the original radiator. After I fired up the truck I got leaks, not from my solder jobs, no leaks at all, the core, although it looked almost new, have a dozen or more pin holes in the core. The second radiator I didn't even try to install because when I did an inspection of it I found numerous tubes had been bent over and soldered shut. The one I have in it now looked pretty decent but when I installed it and fired the truck up I found the front had a good sized hole. Since it was an old radiator I decided to plug it with some epoxy putty, along with a can of stop leak. This had held up but I just don't think it will last for long.
The bottom line is a 50+ radiator is a radiator with 50+ parts. I figure if I chase one problem, bad core, the next weak link will go. The metal in the tanks have been eroded over the last 50+ years, it may not be noticeable but I am sure the metal has gotten thinner over the years. At this point new is the way to go.
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Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 96
Likes: 1
Well got the Radiator, as noted, has to move the mounting holes a bit, drain was a bit higher and over a bit in location, Was able to move the seal and it should be ok.
The upper radiator hose outlet is angled striaght out and not down like the original one.. the upper hose will not reach now, will have to get a longer one or a molded one that will work..
Also the radiator cap is not the same size as the OEM one. it is smaller in size and I will have to get a new one also, anyone have a part number for a cap that is 4psi and of the smaller size opening ?...
waiting for the Water pump to arrive before i can start it up again.. then i will be able to test it.
The upper radiator hose outlet is angled striaght out and not down like the original one.. the upper hose will not reach now, will have to get a longer one or a molded one that will work..
Also the radiator cap is not the same size as the OEM one. it is smaller in size and I will have to get a new one also, anyone have a part number for a cap that is 4psi and of the smaller size opening ?...
waiting for the Water pump to arrive before i can start it up again.. then i will be able to test it.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 96
Likes: 1
Steve
I did pick one up from LMC for $249 plus shipping.. look and seem to be built ok.
Problem areas:
1) top Radiator outlet, OEM is angled down about 45 degress, the LMC one is striaght out.. had to by a longer flex hose 14" instead of 12" does work.
2) Radiator Cap opening is not like the Larger OEM cap size, it is the smaller, new size, right now I am just running a spare cap that I had, but it is too high of a psi rating and I know I will have find a 4psi one soon.
Anyone know what part number would be the smaller size cap in 4 psi or close to it ?
When I called and ask them about it, the only seem to know what was in the catalog, I was not going to take a chance on odering one and then have to return it if it was the wrong one, the shipping would cost more than the item ! so I will hit up the local stores to find somehting.
3) The drain peacok is about +1/4" to the right too much and contacts the fron pan, Had to cut the opening larger.
Other than that, it bolted up to both the Radiator support and the shrould.
I did pick one up from LMC for $249 plus shipping.. look and seem to be built ok.
Problem areas:
1) top Radiator outlet, OEM is angled down about 45 degress, the LMC one is striaght out.. had to by a longer flex hose 14" instead of 12" does work.
2) Radiator Cap opening is not like the Larger OEM cap size, it is the smaller, new size, right now I am just running a spare cap that I had, but it is too high of a psi rating and I know I will have find a 4psi one soon.
Anyone know what part number would be the smaller size cap in 4 psi or close to it ?
When I called and ask them about it, the only seem to know what was in the catalog, I was not going to take a chance on odering one and then have to return it if it was the wrong one, the shipping would cost more than the item ! so I will hit up the local stores to find somehting.
3) The drain peacok is about +1/4" to the right too much and contacts the fron pan, Had to cut the opening larger.
Other than that, it bolted up to both the Radiator support and the shrould.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,887
Likes: 3,130
From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
All of the radiators I have for my '48-50s had straight out upper tubes. I bought a set of reproduction tubes with two 45º bends which need to short pieces of hose to connect to the radiator and thermostat housing.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
Likes: 13
From: Littleton, New Hampshire
My guess is you can use a modern high pressure cap. The 4-7 pound caps were for the original radiators. It depends on what pressure this replacement radiator was tested at manufacture. Check with LMC. They should have the answer. You are better off with the higher pressure cap if the radiator is designed for it...
Senior User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 175
Likes: 3
From: Fort Walton Beach, FL
Thank you Vern for your response on the radiator cap. I purchased a higher pressure cap a few months ago and didn't really think about the radiator being rated for that pressure. I'll definitely call LMC and/or talk with my local radiator shop. I'm probably a year or so away from actually driving the truck so I have some time to get this figured out.
thanks again!
thanks again!