Battery Test Question
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
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Battery Test Question
I searched but didn't find anything specific to my problem...
The voltage readout on my scangaugeII is now reading 12.8 to 13.2 while driving. Used to be 14.0 to 14.2 a few months ago. The batteries are the originals so I am thinking it's time for new ones (4 years and 54k miles in Vegas heat). Okay...the question.
The guy that tested them at Autozone didn't disconnect them from each other while testing.
Don't you need to test each one separately? He said they were still good.
Any suggestions on the type of batteries? I know the optimas are the best but they are out of my price range.
Thanks for the help!
The voltage readout on my scangaugeII is now reading 12.8 to 13.2 while driving. Used to be 14.0 to 14.2 a few months ago. The batteries are the originals so I am thinking it's time for new ones (4 years and 54k miles in Vegas heat). Okay...the question.
The guy that tested them at Autozone didn't disconnect them from each other while testing.
Don't you need to test each one separately? He said they were still good.Any suggestions on the type of batteries? I know the optimas are the best but they are out of my price range.
Thanks for the help!
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,078
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From: Kansas City/Breckenridge
I don't think you have to disconnect them to test them but hook a multimeter to them well the trucks running if its below 12v they are not charging. Replace them soon before it burns up your alternator they arn't cheap. Make sure you replace both of them not just one.
I use interstates I've only had them for a year though. They weren't the cheapest, but batteries is one thing I don't think you should cheap out on.
http://www.interstatebatteries.com/e...%7C%7CRank%7C1
I use interstates I've only had them for a year though. They weren't the cheapest, but batteries is one thing I don't think you should cheap out on.
http://www.interstatebatteries.com/e...%7C%7CRank%7C1
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,868
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From: Rhode Island
Umm, that tells me you have an alternator failure, not a battery failure. I'd borrow a battery from a friends truck. It should still start and run with just 1 battery. If your voltage is still low with a friends battery, then your alternator is blown
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Well, that would suck. The batteries need to be replaced anyway. 4 years in Las Vegas heat is enough. I might be driving to Alaska this fall anyway and I will want new batteries for that. So...I will get the new batteries then see what it looks like. If it is still low while running with the new batteries then I guess it will have to be a new alt as well! JOY.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,834
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From: Middle Tn.
Autozone checked my batteries the same way and said that they were good. Three days later the truck would not start. Replaced both batteries with duramaxes from Autozone and no more problems. Just completed a trip to the Sierras for 10 days and got 11.6 mpg going and 13.3 mpg returning pulling a 12k 5th wheel.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,612
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From: Dunwoody, GA
If you're replacing your batteries, have your alternator tested as well. If you've got a dead alternator, you'll be replacing those batteries again real soon.
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Middle Tn.
Once the new batteries are in if your charge voltage returns to 13.5 to 14.2 volts then you should be good to go. Usually!
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Senior User
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Replaced my batteries this morning. The voltage is now at 13.0-13.3 while driving with AC, lights and radio on. It is the same when everything is off. When starting it drops to 10.
That seems okay. What do you guys think?
That seems okay. What do you guys think?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,868
Likes: 9
From: Rhode Island
They must be lowering the voltages. Most vehicles I've seen have a running voltage of 14.2-14.4.
EDIT: I thought 13 sounded low. Just looked it up, the "float" charge (not fully charged, but you can keep it hooked to this voltage for ever with out major problem, but battery life will be reduced), should be about 13.6-13.8 volts. The full top off charge voltage is 14.4.
So while you won't have any problems with those voltages, your battery life will be reduced.
EDIT: I thought 13 sounded low. Just looked it up, the "float" charge (not fully charged, but you can keep it hooked to this voltage for ever with out major problem, but battery life will be reduced), should be about 13.6-13.8 volts. The full top off charge voltage is 14.4.
So while you won't have any problems with those voltages, your battery life will be reduced.
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Senior User
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They must be lowering the voltages. Most vehicles I've seen have a running voltage of 14.2-14.4.
EDIT: I thought 13 sounded low. Just looked it up, the "float" charge (not fully charged, but you can keep it hooked to this voltage for ever with out major problem, but battery life will be reduced), should be about 13.6-13.8 volts. The full top off charge voltage is 14.4.
So while you won't have any problems with those voltages, your battery life will be reduced.
EDIT: I thought 13 sounded low. Just looked it up, the "float" charge (not fully charged, but you can keep it hooked to this voltage for ever with out major problem, but battery life will be reduced), should be about 13.6-13.8 volts. The full top off charge voltage is 14.4.
So while you won't have any problems with those voltages, your battery life will be reduced.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 124
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From: Southeastern CT
Batteries should be LOAD tested seperately. But with that said, 4 years on batteries is way to long. If you test both batteries connected together, one could be masking the other. Always test serperately.