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E 450 Power needed

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Old Aug 22, 2008 | 08:23 AM
  #1  
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E 450 Power needed

Ok I have 2006 e450 Jayco Class C motor home. It has 2 slide outs. I pull a 24’ all aluminum trailer (1100lbs lighter than a steel trailer). I drag race motorcycles so all that is in the trailer is the race bike (400lb) A zuma scooter and a club car golf cart(aluminum frame) plus normal tools. I know from reading that the V10 in the “E” series have been detuned. I don’t know what gear ratio it has.

The problem I have is with the slightest rise in elevation it kicks down and looses speed. It seems like if it had about 50-70 more HP it would be a great rig. It just seems like it is always on the edge of down shifting. I have tried it in tow mode and with it off. It actually seems to do better with it off.

I need some input on best bang for the buck. I have looked at the Banks system but it is pricey!

My plans are to start with a cat back exhaust then a programmer.

This rig always rolls with the trailer.. when I am not racing the Harley is in it.


So I need thoughts on the direction I am taking.

Best muffler/exhaust to use

Best programmer to use.

Since the V10 is detuned will it take it all the way up?

Since this is a RV I would like to stay away from higher octane fuels if possible.

Thanks
 

Last edited by krewat; Aug 23, 2008 at 06:35 PM. Reason: Removed Office tags
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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 06:37 PM
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I editted your post to remove all the smilies that I know shouldn't have been there

What gears do you have?

Pulling a trailer with the motor home, you might need a little more gearing for what you're doing.

The E series is detuned only slightly, and it's not really "detuned", it's more that the intake is slightly different and the engine loses about a whole 5 HP or so.

The diesel is REALLY detuned in the E-series chassis.

I'd see what gears you have, and if you can realistically change them, it will make a world of difference.

What RPMs are you running at in overdrive at cruise speed? And what's your cruise speed? And what size tires are you using?
 
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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 08:18 PM
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krewat is on to something about those gears, I'd take his advice and walk that path sence you don't want higher octane fuels which renders the invesment of a tuner useless in my opinon. In my head I can see a few logical ways you can go 1. you get an exhaust and headers, I say 30hp 45 lb-ft at best, 2. you go the parastatic loss route, electric water pump electric fans gotta be worth an extra 15 hp 20lbft

Welcome to FTE
 
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Skoda
1. you get an exhaust and headers, I say 30hp 45 lb-ft at best,
No way. Maybe 10 hp and 10 tq, I can barely feel the difference with headers and exhaust.

Originally Posted by Skoda
you go the parastatic loss route, electric water pump electric fans gotta be worth an extra 15 hp 20lbft
Once again, no way. You can take the belt off and the truck feels near the same. I busted a belt on the interstate a few months ago, had to punch it a couple of times to get over to the right to stop.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Heavy_Metal
No way. Maybe 10 hp and 10 tq, I can barely feel the difference with headers and exhaust.



Once again, no way. You can take the belt off and the truck feels near the same. I busted a belt on the interstate a few months ago, had to punch it a couple of times to get over to the right to stop.
your intitled to your own thoughts and opinions, it's a forum I under stand but please note the and yes there are dyno pulls that prove the gains not for this perticular model truck but there gains none the less with the same design in cooling. A fan/clutch attached to the water pump pulley. The dyno pulls also apply for exhaust as well.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 01:38 PM
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For the $$$ you want to spend I think the best bang for the buck is gears. The E-series is 2wd so you only have to swap on one axle. Replacing the muffler with a high capacity unit like an FM50BB2 will help espcially if a 3.5" tailpipe is used after the muffler, even still it won't help much.

As for the Banks kit, its supposed to help a bit and I believe the numbers Banks advertises. I shure felt a difference with my Thorleys and exhaust, especially on the hills.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 01:55 PM
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Knowing more info, like the actual loaded weight of everything, would help assist us all.

How many miles are on your RV?

How much does the RV weigh loaded?

How many feet long is it?

How much does the trailer weigh loaded?

It must be a dual axle, right? Does it have trailer brakes?

How fast do you typically travel on the highway?

At what speeds do you feel "it slow down" after it downshifts?
 
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 04:39 PM
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Performance for the V10....

I assume you have a 30-31' MH [w/2-slides]. If so, your loaded weight just for the MH is going to be ~14000# which is near or at the max GVW. The MH alone is not going to perform all that well with this much "parasitic" load on the V10. It's likely to require a torque/hp boost of perhaps 100-125 lb.ft., which is in the realm of an add-on supercharger or turbo. Such kits were available [Paxton & others] for earlier model V10's & might be available on Ebay or RacingJunk. New they retailed for ~$5K, but you might find one for much less. Installation is straitforward [but not necessarily easy] & is guaranteed to boost your performance while lightening your wallet [for fuel] as well as voiding any remaining warranty on the Ford MH chassis.....
 
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 08:21 PM
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The home is a 27'. I am not sure of the gear ratio.
Where would one find it?
I ussually drive around 65 -70 MPH. It will try to maintane those speeds until a good rise in elevation. Wind has HUGE effect on the dopwnshifts. That is why I am looking for around 50 more HP. Banks #s would be perfect. I didnt know if some peolpe on here had gone another route with similar gains in performance.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2008 | 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by TG441
The home is a 27'. I am not sure of the gear ratio.
Where would one find it?
I ussually drive around 65 -70 MPH. It will try to maintane those speeds until a good rise in elevation. Wind has HUGE effect on the dopwnshifts. That is why I am looking for around 50 more HP. Banks #s would be perfect. I didnt know if some peolpe on here had gone another route with similar gains in performance.
The axle codes in this thread should work, however I'm not 100% shure about that.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...tml#post863209

Just remember that the banks advertised HP and TQ gains are not "Peak Gains" they are the largest gain at a particular spot in the powerband. The 2V benefits from headers, exhaust and etc. Might want to poke around a few RV forums to get some advice from guys who have the kit on their RVs and see what they say. We are mostly 250s and 350s around here.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2008 | 08:10 AM
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It has 83 for Axle code:
83 — 4.30 non-limited slip, F-350 Chassis Cab, narrow frame (dual rear wheels)
Even though it is a e450 I would think the ratio would be correct.
DFK thanks for the help. Thanks to veryone for input.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2008 | 09:18 AM
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If your E-450 does truely have 4:30 gears you could still benefit from a steeper gearset considering the weight of the RV. Are you running 19.5" wheels and what the tire size or OD. Tire size has a big effect on the overall ratio. A gear swap is one of the best bang for the buck mods.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2008 | 12:51 PM
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The 2007 E-350 31' MH I used this summer had a 4.63 rear end. (This was told to me by a forum member here and mathematically verified by me later) This really felt like a great ratio for it.

If you truly have a 4.30 rear end, then I would definitely seek out a place to regear that thing. Especially given that you're towing a trailer that is almost as long as the MH itself!
 
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Old Aug 25, 2008 | 04:43 PM
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my 05 e450 has 4.56
 
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Old Aug 25, 2008 | 10:19 PM
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I have a 04 E450 28 foot motorhome and it has 4.56 gears. I have no problems going through the mountains west of Denver.
 
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