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I've got an 89 E350 chassised motorhome that has some issues right now with driveability and power. Being an RV there was no doubt in my mind that it had the original plugs, wires etc. After several hours replacing all the original stuff I was finishing off with a timing check and with the spout disconnected the engine won't run! Driving an SDD diesel or a (horrors) chevy product on a regular basis I've forgotten what little I knew about the EECIV system. The plugs, wires, cap, and rotor were replaced during this exercise and the TFI was recently replaced due to a failure. I know this thing is a sled but the power is definitely off and I'm sure that the fact that the engine won't start with the spout disconnected is definitely a major symptom pointing to the problem but am just not recognizing it. TIA, Frank
So start the motor with the spout plugged in and remove it after the motor has settled to a stable idle. The worst thing that will do is set a code, but I never have that problem doing it that way.
If it ran before the tunup then your problem has to be pretty simple, a wire disconnected, incorrect firing order on the plugs, etc. If you can't find anything pull the codes, see here.. Ford Fuel Injection.
Tried that, engine won't start with spout disconnected either.
It does not sound like you read Conanski post right.
He said start it first and then with it running and the light on it pull out the SPOUT and set the timing.
If the base timing is way off, then loosen the distributor and turn it back and forth while cranking the motor. When it gets to the right spot, it'll catch.
Although I would double check your other work first, making sure the firing order is right and that everything is installed correctly.
I've imparted confusion here. Engine runs no better or worse than before tune-up. Wires replaced one at a time. Cap and wires numbered before removing/replacing cap. With spout disconnected engine won't start, with engine running engine dies when spout is removed. It's been so long since I've had a problem with any of my Ford products I can't find my damn code reader so am going at lunch to buy another one. Hopefully something has coded andit's a simple fix. I did find a 10 gauge yellow wire with a 16 gauge fusible link that was broken where the two were spliced together, don't know what it was for but didn't affect performance. I bought this thing in Texas a couple of years ago and drove it to Indiana with no problems but the power is so lacking at this point that flooring it just barely gets it over small hills and the bigger hills I get to where it is slowing considerably by the time I top the hill. I'm going to be checking the IAC and TPS tonight also. Seeing as how it sits most of the time it has been suggested that corrosion has built up on the TPS preventing it from providing a clean signal. Keep those suggestions coming as I am hoping to get this resolved before Labor Day and a trip to go rafting in TN. otherwise it's the tent and air mattress.
Just a thought, what color is the TFI?
If it is BLACK (CCD) one change it to a GRAY (PS) one.
I have heard of this before and it turn out to be the wrong color TFI.
I do not remember what color he had but when he change the color it fixed his problem.
The Black one is for a different Ignition system, and yes they did have a Black one for the Distributor mounted CCD TFI.
Old TFI was gray, new one is also gray. Andym, I'll be checking the timing as you suggested. Sometimes the easiest and most obvious solutions are the most overlooked.
Drum Roll please!!!! And the winner is;. . . . . . . . .ANDYM!!!!! I owe you a beer the next time you're in Indy buddy. I did as you suggested, got it running, set it to 10btdc and it's happy as a clam again. Hell it might even be able to pull the boat now. Thanks to all for the input on this issue. Frank.
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