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1988 F250 diesel:
My clutch is getting a little spongey and it's rough shifting gears when it's cold, so I figured it's a good idea to bleed the clutch line. According to Haynes, I disconnect the line from the slave cylinder and remove the cap on the resevoir which should bleed the line out via gravity. However, I was surprised to see that there was no bleeding as soon as the resevoir cap was removed. In fact, I'm pretty sure that I let air into the line as it dripped out the bottom without the resevoir level dropping at all. After all that I decided to put it back together and take it to the mechanic, however, I can't get the slave cylinder back on the bell housing. And even if I can, I don't know if I can shift gears.
How do I bleed the line properly?
Are there any tricks to getting the slave cylinder back on?
youll need help you must hold the rod depressed into the slave cylinder while someone else taps the spring clip and cylinder back onto the bell housing
once that is done pump the clutch a number of times then gently push the clutch fork back toward the slave cylinder this will push air out of the cylinder and back to the resevoir
I had the same problem when I was messing with my slave cyl. I found that you have to crack open the bleeder screw on the slave cyl to depress the piston back into the bore. You might want to try disconnecting the the fluid line at the clutch master cyl. Then push the slave cyl piston back in. This will push the air back out. Then bench bleed the master and you should be good to go.
I've got the slave sylinder back in, but now I have absolutely no clutch. What I don't understand, is wht the repair manuals say to disconnect the line at the slave cylinder and let the line bleed out by itself. I tried that and it didn't bleed. Could there be a problem in the line somewhere? If I was going to do that, why couldn't I just crack open the bleeder screw on the slave, let the air bleed out by itself, top up the resevoir and be on my way? Of course I tried that and nothing seems to bleed out when I do that.
The person that wrote those instructions never did this.....that method will not work......push out the drift pin on the master that's holding the line in.....plug the port on the master if you don't want to bench bleed it. Then retract the slave and hook on the plastic retainers. Reconnect the line to the master... then unhook the slave retainers and if your lucky you will have some clutch.
Transmission in gear, start the engine and you are off.
Now as you drive around slowly on a rough road, keep pressing the clutch and pulling the pedal up with your toe.
Usually before you go to far, you will have enough pedal that it will release without using your toe to pull it up.
It may take as much as a day of driving before all the air is out of the system.
I have tried the line off deal, right.
Push the slave cylinder in, have someone else pump it back out, sometimes.
Bleeder screw, right.
Unless you can shift gears without a clutch, you will be limited to what ever gear you start off in.
After all my years in a semi, the clutch is optional when shifting.
My Chilton service manual says...."The clutch hydraulic system is serviced as a complete assembly and is pre-filled and bled." If you really get stuck you can buy the complete Master/slave/hydraulic line assembly as a ready to install unit and install the whole thing. LMC Truck Parts - Page 119
I got it done. I had to replace the salve cylinder anyways, my fault, I broke it. I bled it like a brake system like so:
Wife presses the pedal down,
open the bleeder,
close it before the push rod returns to the bottom,
wife lifts the pedal to the top,
check the resevoir,
repeat.
It works great. Thanks all for your help.
But I understand that this model and year of truck sometime have problems with blowby in the clutch master cylinder. Is this a common problem?
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