Oil pressure woes. Just thought I'd share with you how I fixed my oil pressure to my satisfaction.

First of all, I did a number of oil mods. I"m sure they're all covered in this site, but here's the ones I did:

Enlarge oil gallery between pump and filter adapter.

Flare openings at Filter adapter.

Change all press-in plugs to threaded plugs.

Put restrictors in the heads.

Blocked off hydraulic lifter galleries.

Flared oil gallery openings in main bearing saddles to match bearings.

Installed a HP pump that was modified to be made adjustable for set-up pre-installation.

OK.....with main and rod bearing clearances set as close as possible to 0.0025", I was strongly urged to use a FPP blue-printed HV/HP pump. Big mistake. About 125 psi of oil pressure on start up. So much cold oil went to the heads, that if I went to move the car before it warmed up a little, the oil pressue gauge would drop momentarily as the little oil left in the pan sloshed around and an air bubble was picked up.

One cure for this was to install a larger oil pan with baffles, whihc I did, and it wasn't cheap.....Aviad pan.

Back to the oil pump. After some research into old FE articles, it seemed like 80 psi would be a good max to set the oil pump relief spring. I believe that old adage about 10 psi for every 1000 rpm relates to Chevs only.

Oh...before I go on, I should mention that I am a firm believer in that bearings need the same amount of oil pressure and flow to keep sufficent lubrication regardless of engine brand. The only reason a FE needs more than a Chev, is the longer, narrower (more restrictive) oil galleries. We may wind up with different rpessures at the gauge location, but the final pressure at the bearings should be the same. Just my opnion.

So.....I removed the oil pump relief press-in plug, removed the spring and tapped the oil pump housing with a 5/8-27 tap (not a common tap, but other threads could be used). I then threaded a piece of brass stock, and then made it into a cup shape with my metal lathe. Finally, on the flat side, I drilled two small "blind" holes so I could turn the cup with a snap-ring pliers.

Next, using 1/4" Al plate, I made two adapters for the oil pump. On the outlet plate, I installed a gauge, and then a valve.

I installed the spring and the plug, put on the plates, and cranked the oil pump with a 1/2 Hp electric drill. Once the oil was flowing and no air was left in the pump, I closed the valve to increase the pressure to max.

First attempt I couldn't get close. Tried a different spring. Now I was getting somewhere. Adjusted the oil pressure for about 83 psi max. The gauge was pulsing a lot, so I sort of went with an average figure.

I then staked the tope of the plug in two spots so it wouldn't turn during operation.

I was worried the drill wasn't powerful enough, or spinning fast enough to simulate the engine, but everything turned out fine. Cold idle start-up, I got 85 psi (which is also max for hot oil at higher rpms).

So....what this did for me, was allow me to adjust the oil pump wihtout having to keep installing and re-installing the pump. That's a pain as the oil-pan has to come off, new gaskets are required, and the car has to be jacked up and put on axle stands each time.

 

Wow.......that's quite a set up.

I've done my oil pumps in a similar fashion, though never test run them to see what they put out before installing them. I used a pipe plug(3/8"?, can't recall exactly now), used a pipe plug cut to fit .10 deeper into hole to shim the stock spring and increase the pressure. Mine usually run around 100 psi at 6000 rpm with .003 bearing clearances and 20w50 oil.

The added oil needed for an FE compared to a SBC is also determined by the journal size/diameter. It takes ALOT more oil to keep a FE happy compared to the tiny journals of a SBC.

 

Wow all that to get back to a std volume pump ? JK... my basic pump seems to work just fine 70psi cold at 2200 and when it warms up levels off about 52 then when the idle is released to 650 it purrs along at 40psi. If I nail it getting on the freeway for a a 1/10 mile or so 25-90mph the gauge rests about 75psi +/- a few... depending n temps

 

Argess, what is this engines purpose in life ? The bearings are too tight IMO, way too tight. If I build an FE for regular street duty, .0025 is too tight for anything other than grocery getter work, and thats pushing it. My daily driver has clearnces of at least .003 on the mains, IIRC, the tightest rod I have is .003. You might want to check your rocker to shaft clearance....if you have restrictors to the heads and you still bleed lots of oil, the inside diameter of the rockers could be worn. Very common problem. DinosaurFan, on kids 'puter

 

A Mellings 57HV pump is just right for our stock or modified FE engines.
Only thing I do different (using a solid lifter cam) on the oiling mods is that on the galley plugs to the lifters, I drill a .060 hole in the (threaded) plugs so that the lifters do get some oil.
Over many many FE builds, I have yet to loose a engine from oiling deficiency.
I broke a rocker arm shaft once, when I used a 250 hp shot of nitrous on our Falcon. I went back to 175 hp shot, and replaced shafts with JB Bittle heavy duty shafts, and no other problems.

 

Well guys.....I only posted the thread to explain how I modified the pump so it could be set-up prior to putting it in an engine. I suppose the setting could be anything you want. I chose 80. So maybe the post will be of help to someone who wants 90 or some other number.

Why 80 psi? Because I don't know any engine experts, and have to read everything I can, and sort out what makes sense to me. Keep in mind, I did most of this before internet was common.

Yes, Freightrain....I agree that journal size plays a factor...maybe presure/flow per square inch of bearing surface would have been a better way to have put it, but I agree wiht you....larger journals = more oil req'd.

From what I remember, most of the performance specs on the FE calls for 0.0025 to 0.003. I went with the lower spec to allow for machinist's error, wear, taper, etc.....although in hindsight, that all does seem a little foolish. Anyway, havn't ruined a bearing yet.

The engine's purpose in life? Just a hobby car......ERA Cobra I built back in the 90's. I don't drag race, although I humiliated a motorcycle driver once.....LOL. Not easy with the power to weight ratio of a high powered bike. So.....street/mild performance is the goal.

What have I done to it besides the oiling block mods and HV pump? Heavier oil pump drive, Aviad 9 qt oil pan, forged 9.5:1 pistons, balanced rotating assembly, Crane fireball cam, Crane solid lifters, Crane pushrods, Crane adj rockers, Harland Sharpe rocker shafts (single hole, no wear yet), FPP end support stands, FPP center stands, solid rocker spacers (vs those springs) crane dual valve springs, bronze valve guides, positive valve seals, stellite exhaust seats, offenhauser 360Deg divided plenum 2x4 manifold, dual Holley vaccum 600s, progressive linkage, mallory distributor (which I don't recommend), pertonix ignition module (which I recommend highly).....gee.....not sure if I got it all, or not....oh...fancy Tony Branda valve covers...hmmm....rods casting # says from a 63 427 although In think they are merely 390 rods. What else........Mcloud flywheel..... hmmm.....can't think any more.....it's been a long time since I put all of it together.

So it's supposed to be a simnple mildly tweaked FE with some longevity in mind. So far, the longevity isn't great. First block cracked in lifter valley area (1/2 way between valley floor and top of block deck...probabbly a casting flaw that opened up with my increased hp) allowing coolant in oil and I had to have crank turned, get a new block and lifters, etc. Second block, I unwittingly used the el-cheapo Fel-pro head gaskets and got a water leak. Mallory distributor pin sheared due to HV pump, so I had to modify it. Currently I seem to be cursed with intake manifold leaks (oil), but am hoping to have that resolved shortly.

Anyway....that's that. Point of post was to tell you about how it is possible to determine max oil pressure prior to installation. I don't like removing double gasketed oilpans with windage trays any more than I have to.

 

I give you kudos for going thru what you have, nothing wrong with it, especially when you didn't have anyone else to tell you. More common then we think, as there are alot of machine shops that don't know the proper way to build engines(more then stocker rebuild for the family van). Blueprinting is an art.

Sounds like a really cool hot rod! I have a friend with an original Arntz kit Cobra that was originally a 302 car, but redid it with a basic 428. Geesh, it's a rocketship. Another friend has a Superformance Cobra with a 427 stroker Windsor(touch over 600 hp).....stupid fast. Always wanted to build one, plain jane, nothing fancy(cause I couldn't afford it anyway).

That intake you run.....is that the really low intake? Carbs near level with valve covers? Not much of a performance part, but sure it does fine for a 2000# car.

I know all about those double gasket oil pans! I feel your pain on that one. My 390 Galaxie had a leak issue and I couldn't even get the Cobra pan out from under the car due to bellhousing hitting firewall and not allow engine to rise high enough to get pan out. Had to work around the pan, clean it and re-install both gaskets/windage tray with it 3" below the engine!

 

I only just discovered there were 2 versions of the manifold. Not sure which one I have, but I think the tall one. Bad port match, but it's a pretty thing sitting on the engine.....LOL. I wouldn't have bought one new, but I got this one used for very little $$$. Anyway, as you say, with a light car it (seems to) work fine.

 

I've seen them for under $150 used at swap meets and years back I thought it was the cheap way to go, but realized they were a real poor design and not made for power. I choked the $750(new Dove) for a tunnelwedge back in early 90's and never looked back. Like most of their odd "multi carb" intakes.....they are just that "show pieces" and not good hot rod parts.

 

That's a lot of work

I used a Melling high volume pump, went through it to make sure everything was OK, and it came up with 80 psi at cold idle.

But hey, if you have the time to do it, why not?

 

Freightrain...waht si a Tunnelwedge manifold? I've heard of tunnelport, but not tunnelwedge.

A number of years ago I was looking at Dove with some interest, but apparently his foundry burned down. Is he a going concern these days?

FPP....now there's a company difficult to deal with. Great products, but terrible mail order service. Seems to me they were making an aluminum 2X4 intake......I wonder if I still have their catalog around.......hmmmm..............

 

Not Freight but a Tunnelwedge is kinda the same as the tunnelport but can be used with square intake port FE heads. They look very much the same 2x4 except the runners are more square. Where the tunnelport stays round. A unique feature to the tunnelport (not tunnelwedge now) is 12 intake bolts vs the std 10 used in other FE intakes.

Dove is still very much alive today. And still making parts. I hear the new cammer kits are done and Mr J Brown has one of the first ones. While they have been know to have porisity issues in the past hopefully some new foundry tech will sort that out. While they seem to make some very fine parts. There are those who have not been as lucky it seems. Blue Thunder also makes some really nice intakes. MR, CJ and PI single and dual flavors. Nice quality. I bought a set of their pentroof VC's. Fit is very nice but the as cast wrinkle finish is a biatch to polish.

 

BTW check out Carl's Ford Parts he sells TW's and you can see a pic.

 

I use this stuff on the boats aluminum after polishing. Makes for a great protection against elements etc.. save you a polish for a few years I'd imagine. Not sure how it stands up to fuel/oil/brake fluid but at 14.00 for a sample bottlew (a life time supply) it's a great deal

How to Restore Metal, Protect Metal & Keep Metal Looking It's Best.

the kit: http://www.everbritecoatings.com/car...ed7724942e2fe2

 

Thanks Bobby I'll try some and see how it works. I've heard a few different people speak highly of that besides yourself.